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Ke70 4K Timing Problem


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Hey guys, Alec here.

 

I've just finished my 4k rebuild and got the motor in my car. Had some dramas regarding idle but got that fixed (carby running too lean). Now i've encountered a whole new problem. So basically my timing is screwy and i have an idea what to do, but not sure how.

 

Soooooooo here we gooo...

 

Pretty much, i went to do the timing, got the timing light ready and everything, turned the car on, idles first go, excellent.

 

I painted everything so to get the timing mark on the crank, i wound the motor over by hand with a screwdriver in the No1 sparkplug hole to find TDC. This also coincided with the dissy pointing at the first lead. okie dokie, all good.

 

Then when i shine the light on the crank pulley the white mark i marked is nowhere near where it should be. I was under the impression that 8 BTDC is ideal. Mine would be on like 48 or something, way off the scale.

 

Then i thougt, IDIOT! i had the vac advance on, so i disconected and the car did not want to run, but the mark was closer. I'm stumped :bash:

 

Could the cam be a tooth out? because fuel system is fine, ignition system is fine, i have no idea!

 

If the cam is a tooth out, how do i know which way, i understand how to fix it as i've just built the motor, but i'm still learning.

 

So if because the white mark is to the left of where it should be, do i rotate the cam clockwise one tooth? to get the mark closer to where it should be?

 

Any help would be appreciated, i'm stuck!

 

Alec

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I painted everything so to get the timing mark on the crank, i wound the motor over by hand with a screwdriver in the No1 sparkplug hole to find TDC. This also coincided with the dissy pointing at the first lead. okie dokie, all good.

 

Then when i shine the light on the crank pulley the white mark i marked is nowhere near where it should be. I was under the impression that 8 BTDC is ideal. Mine would be on like 48 or something, way off the scale.

 

 

Could the cam be a tooth out? because fuel system is fine, ignition system is fine, i have no idea!

 

If the cam is a tooth out, how do i know which way, i understand how to fix it as i've just built the motor, but i'm still learning.

 

Alec

 

i had the same problem with my 5k when i swapped dissy. timing was set to around 20degrees buy the dissy but showed 40+ on the crank pulley.

 

so all i did was point the dissy to number 1 cylinder and like 0 degrees. carefully pulled the dissy out and turned it back a tooth. (you'll need to turn the oil pump with a screw driver) or (push the housing of dissy down and get someone to crank it. it will slot in the oil pump drive when the cam turns. little dodgy but hey what ever works for yah)

 

then crank it and turn the dissy till it starts and check the timing. trial and error ftw

 

i assume you check the dwell before hand? if you can the dwell angle the timign will change aswell

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Hold it-

 

The screwdriver would give you number 4 firing just as easily sa number one... but seeing the rotor pointed to #1 plug lead we will assume its number 1 firing.

 

So-

 

First- Is your timing mark at zero degrees on the cam cover when you have TDC by the screwdriver method?? That makes sure you have the right mark on the pulley.

 

Second- turn the motor back by hand until you have 8deg advance on that mark, take off the dizzy cap, loosen the dizzy clamp and turn the key on. Disconnect the idle hose. Now turn the dizzy until the points just open and spark, you might have to do it a few times to get it right. Tighten the dizzy up. That gives you 8deg static. Make sure you know which way the dizzy turns when it runs, and approach the dizzy lobe from the correct side.

 

Third- fire it up and adjust the idle speed to run it. Then hit it with a timing light and set timing at idle speed. Then connect the vac hose and redo the idle if needed.

 

It has nothing to do with the cam. You either have the wrong timing mark. or the dizzy has gone back in a tooth out. Just whip it out and turn it 5mm the way it needs to go, as Evan said, then static time it until you can get 8deg easily.

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Thanks Evan, i'll give it a shot and what mr altezza told me too. cheers guys

 

First- Is your timing mark at zero degrees on the cam cover when you have TDC by the screwdriver method?? That makes sure you have the right mark on the pulley.

 

Yeah, i marked the notch that was on 0 on the cam cover when the dissy was pointing at lead 1 of the cap.

 

It has nothing to do with the cam. You either have the wrong timing mark. or the dizzy has gone back in a tooth out. Just whip it out and turn it 5mm the way it needs to go, as Evan said, then static time it until you can get 8deg easily.

 

I don't think i have the wrong mark, i'm pretty sure. How do i know which way i need to turn it? So its nothing to do with the cam being a tooth out?

 

 

Also, i have a dwell checking thingy, but i have NO idea how to use it, instructions dissapeared long ago and the internet wasn't very helpful :huh:

Edited by RainWarriorDregs
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Well.... we assume first up that the cam is correct.. It could be a tooth out, but hopefully this is just a timing problem. A cam re-time is a major pain!

 

So- We have the right mark on the pulley, that is fixed.

 

If you static time it to 8deg it will run. Check the points gap with a set of feeler gauges and that is fine. A dwell meter is more accurate but you don't need that level of accuracy here.

 

It should run happily if the cam is a tooth out, it just won't make much power. So if you can make sure the points are just opening when the pulley is at 8deg you should have a runner. I 'll go take a picture...

 

LOL- no I won't! Forgot I have no points these days...

 

 

The red lead goes to the points side of the coil (negative terminal) and the black clamps onto any good ground point on the engine. Start the engine and measure the dwell angle. If it isn't at 46deg +/-3deg stop the engine and move the point gap closer to raise the dwell or farther apart to lower it. Keep doing so until the dwell is correct. Dwell angle has always been set by properly adjusting the ignition point gap.
Edited by altezzaclub
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Alright cool. so the dwell is only relevant if you have a points distributor. I have a KEmotorsports elec one. so i don't need to worry about that. Was gunna have a crack at the timing this arvo, but i gotta work at 6, i hate leaving things half way through.

 

Thanks for the help tho mr altezza, i'll let ya know how it turns out.

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