RainWarriorDregs

i have a pair of webers on a manifold for a k series for sale if you're interested. A heaps of jets and emulsion tubes and everything to bolt on and go. Pm me if you're keen

TA22 tailshaft will let you connect a k series box to a T series diff. I have one inbetween a k50 and a RA40 T series diff.

This is true. Also depends if you want to wire in an ecu and everything. And availability of parts.

I 100% agree with this. I've beat many a 4age powered car with my k series and it all up cost me about as much as a 4age conversion would. Each to their own i guess. Taz put it perfectly.

Ah ok, yeah i'd thought i'd sent you through those parts numbers. Like i tell most people, i just got the head bolts matched at my local fasteners shop. they've been holding up fine now for about 12 months of 7000rpm and 12.5:1 compression. Just a thought. Northern Nats was good. my partners son runs his burnout car in the pro series and it goes hard as. However got cranky and threw a leg out of bed. Other than that, just good to be involved in the scene. I ran a Tighe cam with 0.423 of lift for about 6 years in my hot 4k with standard valve springs and it saw many many revs and they were all good. I went double springs in my recent 5k build cos massive cam.

Also, have never used these, but these are the part numbers floating around for ARP head studs to fit a k series. " ARP head studs to suit k series engine are as follows ) 10 ARP studs M10 X 1.25 X 5.00 Part# AM5 .000-1lb ) 1 10 pack ARP nuts M10 X 1.25 X 7/16 12PT part# 300-8363 ) 1 10 pack ARP Washer No Chamfer M10 ID .7500D part# 200-8689

Its not that no one is interested man, its just the forums are dying. Its all about the facebook now, i think its quite sad, i love the forum. I try to get on here as often as i can. I've PMed you man, was just a bit busy this week at NorthernNats.

Hey man, i might have some of those things you are chasing, shoot me a private message and i'll try remember to have a look tomorrow haha.

"Arp head studs to suit k series engine are as follows AM5.000-1LB. Headstuds 10 required AMW750N. Headstud washers or you can use your origional toyota ones.10 required. AMN12-1. Headstud nuts you guessed it 10 required." I wouldnt bother tho, so pricey and kinda overkill. i just took an existing headbolt to my local boltmasters and asked them for something the same. Got them for like 5 bucks each slammed them in and havent had an issue since. Be wary using second hand head bolts as 5k headbolts are torque to yield and 4k ones aren't. just fyi.

I've still got a couple of these kicking around at home haha. EM30 manifold gasket is the go. I'd recommend a genuine toyota headgasket too if you're planning on high compression. My 5k build ended up at about 12-12.5:1 compression and it blew 3 headgaskets in 2 weeks before i bit the bullet and got the OEM 5kc head gasket from toyota, still going strong. you live and you learn aye. EDIT: Also Crow Cams did my grind for my 5k. It was a custom solid lifter grind. Just for your info.

I'm running a MSD 6-AL with their Blaster2 (i think) coil with a 4k points distributor (because the advance curve was a little better than the 5k one). Basically the same as Gavins but with more spark but for more monies. I probably wouldve gone the streetfire if i hadn't of gotten the 6al for mates rates. Don't get too excited about MSD rev limiter tho, its more of a safety precaution for run away engines than a limiter to bounce off like the BeeR the silvia boys run. I found that it was only when i have super heavily modified my motor that i even need to go as far as an MSD.

That is correct Viterbo

I converted my 5k to solids by modifying the stock hydraulic ones and didn't block any oil feed holes or anything. Cars been going strong for about 12 months now

I found in my adventure when building my 5k that the 5k headbolts are torque to yield bolts, meaning they cannot be used again once they are torqued down, and the 4k ones are not. However i myself believe that the 4k head bolts would also stretch, you could try finding an unopened 4k (there are a few getting around) and steal the head bolts out of that. My 5k was high high compression so it kept lifting the head and blowing the headgasket so i ended up going to Boltmasters (my local bolt shop) giving them my stock 4k headbolts and asking for some similar, they hooked me up and theyve been holding my head down ever since.

When i got my headlight loom from China, i hooked it up and it just made my high beams not work. Wasn't too much brighter than my semi sealed globes just running the old wiring.

interesting, i'm currently building a backyard carby turbo 5k and this information is good news for me.

sounds good, there's so many variables with these motors tho, so i'd dummy fit the engine up before you fully assemble it oh and make sure you put the 4k adjustable rocker gear into the 5k head, if you put the 4k head on the 5k you'll have very very little compression. As most the combustion chamber in the 4k is in the head, and in the 5k its on the piston thats why they are dished..

Sorry Viterbo, i don't get much of a chance to post haha. what you said is correct, the push rod goes into the lifter and to the bottom, i think we left the washer in there to give it somewhat of a pivot point. Styler - I can give you some certainty haha, we did the halfway conversion. so... gutted hydro lifters, 4k pushrods, solid rockers. The motor was built from the ground up and i received it in pretty bad condition so the option to keep the hydro lifters wasn't really applicable to me. Also i didn't want another moving part in that system of the motor to break as it revs to 9000rpm most days (to keep up with traffic haha). We went to do the 3F plus custom pushrod combo but decided to use what we had from my graveyard of k series motors. What do you mean by this Styler?

Too easy man, a little flat out at the moment. Shoot me a PM and i'll write up a little instructions thingy for you. Ya just got to remind me cos i'm useless haha.

Sorry man, i should've explained myself better, i do believe i've confused myself haha. We didn't turn the whole lifter upside down, I'm pretty sure it was just the washer on the inside we flipped. So basically we pulled the lifter out. Pulled all the insides out, and then flipped that little washer upside down that held the insides in the lifter and then reinstalled it. Yes, we used 4k pushrods. The short ones i'm pretty sure. I'll try find some pics.

Woah, whereabouts are you located? I was quoted about $8 AUD (so what, 6 EURO or something) when i looked into it. But like i said, we just took the hydro ones out and turned them upside down, you could do that? its free. Or did you miss the rest of the comment?

I did the RB alternator/K engine hybrid. Well worth it. And easy

You can use Toyota Landcruiser 3F solid lifters and the early 4k short pushrods. More relevant to your question tho, when i just recently built my 5k we just took the hydro lifters out, gutted them turned them upside down and popped them in. Car still goes.

which kit did you use? Also any idea if these kits would work with a 6AL MSD?

Nah, mechanical pump should be fine. My stock mech pump feeds my worked 5k with a 40mm sidedraft. I'd be looking more at maybe the motor is leaning out above 6000rpm. Or GJM is correct, in my experience 4ks will only pull savagely within the power range of their cam. Still check pressure from the pump, or maybe just replace it in case, bout 50 bucks. Couldnt hurt?