Few Questions, Maybe Stupid.

[71-BEETLE-SEDAN]

Hi guys and girls, I just bout a 1983 KE70 Rolla its a flat front, five speed manual and has the 4k motor. And this is my first post here so if its in the wrong spot please move it.

 

It had rear ended someone in the past and Ive decided to fix the front end etc. It needs new headlights, new parkers, new blinkers, front and side, new "beaver panel" i think Ive read it as, the one that ties the front quarters together, at least the drivers front quarter and maybe some of the radiator panel. Now here is were the questions are.

 

How critical is it that i get the beaver panel right, i think i have it roughly in the right place and shape, I'm not fussed on getting the car 100% spotless, i have one that i do that too and its too much hassle for a daily atm. Will i be alright if i just get it to fit and look okay or does it need to deflect air to the radiator etc.

 

Secondly, if there is a factory seam that been glued that's come unstuck is it okay to weld it up? Being that i have access to boilermakers to weld it properly? And if there is a tear in the radiator support panel can i re weld it and get a strengthening piece behind it, IE a piece of flat bar welded along the tear.?

 

That's all the questions i can think of if i have any more i will post em up.

 

Cheers Josh

[altezzaclub]

I'd pop it all apart, like headlights out, grille off, bumper off mudguards off etc and have a careful look at the chassis underneath.

 

See if there are any dented or mis-aligned areas and work out how to get them in the right place. Weld panels over any damaged areas that need it and make sure its all rust-proofed.

 

Then put eveything back on and see if it lines up nicely, & if it doesn't, why not? Decide if its a problem with the panel or the chassis.

 

I've just helped a mate replace a F/R guard and re-assemble the front end after a minor shunt, and we tidied up everything that has happened in the last 30years.

 

The metal moves easily with a little persuasion, there's not much in them.

[ke70dave]

so long as your wheel alignment is good, your panel lines line up, everything looks pretty square, and most importantly...your headlights don't shine in peoples eyes!!! do what you need to do to make these things happen!

[71-BEETLE-SEDAN]

It's all apart now. I pulled it down as soon as I got it home.

 

One guard is okay. But ones not.

 

Now that I'm back to the radiator support and bare inner fenders I can see that the front of the passengers side is damaged. But repayable. The only thing is how? I've seen people tie the car down and use chain blocks to pull it out and also just use hammers. I can't get a hammer in there tho. Battery tray is in the way. So any pointers would be nice.

 

The rails are straight an I guess it's got a good week alignment. It's also got a blown headgasket which I'm replacing as well. So most ofvtge engine bays empty.

 

I'll need new headlights, new grill, new ps guard, Parkers for both sides, blinkers for both sides and a new radiator if anyone has one spare. Cheers

 

Also another question, my choke comes out to far. I've narrowed the issue down to the cable moving in the engine bay. It seems like it would need a steel tube around it to stop it cutting the corner as you would before engaging the choke. But that's an issue that can wait

[altezzaclub]

I've seen people tie the car down and use chain blocks to pull it out

 

Yes- or in other words a chassis straightener. Got a panelbeater for a mate with one? possibly hire a Porta-power ?

 

You really want it under tension before you hit it so the metal moves in the direction you want, although that depends on the problem. You pull out things that have been pushed backwards, but you can move things sideways with a hammer or straighten bent things with a second hammer holding it.

 

Put an ad up in the 'car parts' forum for the bits. The choke sounds like it has lost the clamp that sits at the very end of the outer cable at the carb and holds it in place.

 

So, you're up for a head skim currently? Are you going to do a quick porting job before it goes to the engineers? At least open it up to match the gaskets, it saves doing it later when you want to fit better carbs & a cam.

 

Simple to do- about 3/4 way down this page just above the exhaust wrapping.

 

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727

[71-BEETLE-SEDAN]

About the panel beating no I don't have a mate but I do have acces to a welder so I can make a jig or dolly etc. I wil ask more about this once ive made some measurements.

 

The choke, no the carb end all seems good. It would seem that the cable needs a bracket off the air filter or something to stop the cable flexing etc. Maybe it's behind the dash.

 

I'm not planning on doing a skim if I don't have too. I've replaced head gaskets before on charade motors without skimming without errors. So if this ones not to bad then I probably wont. I have a vw beetle too. So porting I will do.

 

The motor is a "hi-cam". What's this mean?

 

This is probably another silly question. Were is the cam located in these motors and is it chain or belt timed?

[altezzaclub]

Chain driven, and "Hi-cam" is painfully cringing marketing from Toyota in answer to everyone else going overhead cam! They couldn't make an overhead cam so they called their pushrod motor a Hicam. Absolutely no different from what it was.

 

The cam is down the driver's side of the engine, just where you would expect it in a 1953 Morris 1000.

 

So, is the head job the ol' straightedge and feeler gauges to see how warped it is?

 

The choke outer cable should be held at both ends, and it doesn't matter where it wanders around, so long as it is anchored the inner cable will slide in and out correctly. If it is fixed at the carb & the dash, then there must be too much slack between the inner cable and the carb choke fitting.

 

Got some photos?

[71-BEETLE-SEDAN]

Alright,

 

Yeah looking at the shape of the motor its were i would have thought the cam would be.

 

And yeah the rule and feeler gauge check.

 

The choke cable is held at both ends, i see what you mean but its still tricky to explain what i mean, But i have no photos but i will get some up here tomorrow.

 

 

Also is there any differences in the radiators between ke70 4k motors and any other 4k motors radiators?

[71-BEETLE-SEDAN]

Okay. So the headgasket is fixed and it runs fine. Doesn't over heat or blow smoke.

 

Chokes fixed also.

 

I now have questions regarding suspension.

 

It is on cut spring. Is there any way to jeep it as low as it is now legally. It's over 100mm high at the lowest point fully loaded. And it's really stiff. Is there any way of making it slightly softer. Also all on the cheap if possible. And I can weld if that helps.

 

Also the exhaust has been cut off short. Does it go o er or under the diff?

 

And finalyy. Front end camber. Could people post pics of there front end from the front and explain what they have done to achieve there camber.

 

 

Cheers JOsh

[altezzaclub]

Throw out cut springs and replace with stock ones. Cut them one coil off first then half a coil at a time until its getting too stiff. You need more spring metal to make it softer, so longer springs.

 

Exhaust goes over the diff usually.

 

More negative camber comes from Corona lower control arms. Ridiculous negative camber comes from Sigma LCAs.

 

Don't forget the Celica rear sway bar- as good as more front camber!

[71-BEETLE-SEDAN]

Okay

 

I'm still on my p's at the moment so i don't really wanna be on cut springs tho. Ive read something about a sleeved coil over kit????

 

Okay ill have a look at getting the exhaust over it.

 

I don't want ridiculous camber so corona arms it is. Now i know which arms i want i will re-read the sticky on it all.

 

And thanks for that, which model celica, i am gunna use this car as a daily and also for some track fun to the better handling the more fun i can have.

 

Also i have just got back from going for a drive in it, it feel funny at higher speed, like as if there is something loose but there is, could this be the cut springs, or is it more likely to be a diff issue.

[altezzaclub]

it feel funny at higher speed,

 

What sort of funny?? It should have nothing to do with cut springs or the diff, unless the springs are so low they bounce around the road and bump steer. Check the ball joints and all suspension bushes with a giant screwdriver or a small crowbar.

 

Have a careful look at the front tyres and rub your hand lightly across the tread in both directions. If the two edges of each tread are not the same, especially if you can see that it is feathered, the car needs a wheel alignment. If you're going to change the ride height, do that first and get the Corona LCAs fitted then get an alignment.

[ke70dave]

just buy a set of lowered springs.

 

kings are about $350 for a set.

 

and if you don't want to buy them, just put standard uncut springs in.

[71-BEETLE-SEDAN]

It's not bumpsteer I get that in my vw.

 

It feels like tge engine is surging. Could it be gearbox/engine/diff mounts?

 

I don't mind forking out for a set of lowered springs. Should I change shocks as well? And are the lowered springs still stiff, I don't hate it. It's just incase there is a softer option to stay low

 

Thanks for the help on the silly questions too. I'm new to Corollas. But not to working on my own cars.

Edited July 8, 2011 by 71-BEETLE-SEDAN

[altezzaclub]

The transmission shouldn't make it surge- My Pintara surges all the time, bloody cheapass early fuel injection I blame!

 

I would assume its a carb problem unless its something tricky with the dizzy changing the timing and making it surge.

 

You can ask the spring makers what rtes they ahve on their lowered coils. They will be a bit stiffer, and you really should get shocks to suit. Then again, you probably don't have shocks to suit the springs in there now!