kamakazeKoala Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 gday :), today bought my first rolla, 1969 KE10, love it to death, however, shes a little rough around the edges, all fixable in good time :) Was unable to test drive the car as was unregistered, and much to my dissapointment, only realised the BRAKES don't WORK, once i got her home, off the trailer and into the driveway -_- foolish on my end i know but either way i need them fixed ASAP cause i want her back on the road. to get to the point, i was wondering if anyone in the adelaide area would be willing to lend a hand gettin em fixed [ possible reward :) ] or if anyone from the rolla community could give their knowledge on the subject. Pedal drops to the floor, no brake action at all it seems. have considered the master cylinder or leaking lines as the culprit, but don't have a huge amount of know how on braking systems :bash: any help would be greatly appreciated :) :y: thanks :y: few pics also ( taken with pro camera sooooo resolution kinda high, probly take ages to load em as big pics :blush: ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old fella Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 G`day mate, good score whether the brakes work or not. Its exactly the same as one that I had back in the early seventies and I loved it. The first thing I would try with the brakes is to fill the master cylinder with brake fluid and pump the brake pedal for a while. You might have to fill it more than once to get fluid all the way through the system. Then follow the brake lines to each wheel and you`ll soon find out if it is leaking somewhere. Drum brakes are not a hard thing to work on, but you are right in asking for assistance if you are not sure of what you are doing. Do you mind telling us what you paid for the old jigger? It looks pretty good. Cheers and good luck with the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 First up, do the brakes pump up? Check fluid levels, top up and bleed all brakes. It's probably drums all round so you might get some results if you adjust them. Even if all the seals are worn, they should still pump up. It's usually bleeding and adjustment that cause them to not work at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamakazeKoala Posted September 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 Cheers for the info guys, the pedal does pump back up, jus goes all the way to the floor, hoping to god its jus air in the lines, would be an easier fix then finding a new master cylinder :glare: now jus gotta find someone to gimme a hand bleeding the brakes :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 Did i see this on ebay about 6 months ago? looked a lot worse then if it's the same one.. Yeah as others have said try bleeding the brakes but if it is the mastercylinder it'd be easier to get it re-sleaved than buying a new one. Also check all your brake lines etc as they could be 40 years old with stress points and cracks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamakazeKoala Posted September 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 hmmmm, might of been the one, found this one on gumtree only recently soooo not sure :P .... as for the lines, if i have a stress point or crack, is that gonna mean entire replacement of the line, and if so is that gonna be a costly repair? if anyone knows :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 Cost $60 to have a pair of new ke70 brake lines made up. So not too bad considering they'll save your life Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke70dave Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 (edited) on a car of this age, anything replaced to do with brake lines should be brand new. 2nd hand 40yr old stuff is still 40yrs old...then you can forget about that component! any hydraulics shop will be able to bend you up new brake lines with new nuts on the end easy as, had a few made for my ke70 back in the day. pretty cheap. same goes for the mastercylinder and brake cylinders, you can get them reco'd, saves trying to find new ones! from what has been described id be very suprised to see a cracked brake line causing this issue. if so you'll know about it when you start to bleed (ie fluuid everywhere) brake fluid goes bad over time, so if its been sitting for yrs....give it a good flush of fluid, bleed it up good. see if you can get it to work (whilst checking for obvios leaks). if that doesnt work, look into adjusting the drum brakes (Assuminig you have some pad left). if that doesnt work, start looking for failed components. brake fluid also attrats water, so if its been sitting for yrs...water can be in your lines...and rusting things. another thing to watch out for. Edited September 7, 2011 by ke70dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 I was thinking it might be this one.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamakazeKoala Posted September 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 Thats the one :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolou Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 Hi, with regard to your brake problems KE10/11 the drum brakes are a complicated system. All the wheel cyls, brake shoes and master cyl are avail new. It doesn't pay as quoted by other members, to persevere with 2nd hand ones. When bleeding the brakes start with the shortest line rhf, then lhf then rear till all air is excluded. Usually a good idea is a piece of plastic hose over the bleeder nipple into a bottle of half full brake fluid. The brake adjustments are critical remembering that one side is lh thread and the other side rht.WHEN BLED AND ADJ PROPERLY THE brakes work as effeiciently as disc brakes. Hope this is of some help. PS I have just finished doing a Sprinter and 2 KE10's brake systems. Cheers, Lou Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.