altezzaclub Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 seals on the carbs are not good or the float level needs to be adjusted More commonly, the needle and seat is not sealing, rather than float level adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fu-Leng Posted October 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 More commonly, the needle and seat is not sealing, rather than float level adjustment. Hi Are you talking about the needle under the float? Or about the connection from the fuel line into the carb? Because I tried to take out that connection and could not - it was stuck, on both carbs. I didn't try anymore because was afraid to break something. lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted October 17, 2011 Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 The needle under the float. (well, above it actually..) That is what controls the stopping of petrol entering the bowl, so any bit of shit across it or a very worn taper can let it flood. The float level doesn't go out much, and often they were made non-adjustable. The connection between the fuel line and the bowl top does often freeze up, so just ignore them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fu-Leng Posted October 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 The needle under the float. (well, above it actually..) That is what controls the stopping of petrol entering the bowl, so any bit of shit across it or a very worn taper can let it flood. The float level doesn't go out much, and often they were made non-adjustable. The connection between the fuel line and the bowl top does often freeze up, so just ignore them. Man, this carbs are a complete cr@p! I took out the carb, cleaned the needle and put it on again. Then I noticed that when I pulled the throttle it didn't squirt gas as it should, and I didn't want to take out the carb again, so I managed to clean it with carb cleaner and a little tube. After that it would not iddle, but it looked good. So I remembered someone talking about the vacuum hoses. It only has 2, one from the crank case and other from the brake booster. I disconnected both and blocked the hoses and it idled!!!!!! :) Finally. Does the brake booster needs to have brake fluid on the system to have vacuum? If that's the case then I had my system empty because I'm still puting everything together. Now I have another problem. I noticed that the carbs, while idling, leak fuel from the vertical drum (the one that is activated by the throttle) because it has old rubber on top, and I'll probably need to change the rubbers. Anyone knows where to by those rubbers? I live in Portugal, so online shops would be great. thanks everyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted October 18, 2011 Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 It sounds like there are pieces of dirt stuck in odd places inside the carbs and they block up the jets. Still, its all working now is it?? Run it like that until you have the brakes setup so you can check that booster out. Check your PCV valve on the crankcase to make sure its not jammed open with some dirt under the seal. Do you have a vacuum advance on the distributor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fu-Leng Posted October 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 It sounds like there are pieces of dirt stuck in odd places inside the carbs and they block up the jets. Still, its all working now is it?? Well, the carbs kept working yesterday, no need to pull the throttle to keep them alive. Run it like that until you have the brakes setup so you can check that booster out. Check your PCV valve on the crankcase to make sure its not jammed open with some dirt under the seal. Do you have a vacuum advance on the distributor? The PCV valve might be jammed. I'll try to "blow" the valve to check if it's good - it should only let the air pass from the crank case out, and not in, right? My distributor is from the 3K-B, it has a vacuum advance - it's the vacuum tube that goes to the first carb, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fu-Leng Posted October 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 Problems again. 2 days ago I could keep the engine running for about a minute, but yesterday I had problems trying to idle it correctly. Maybe it worked the day before because it was already warmed up. It could be more air that he can take and chockes (I'm trying this without the carb aircleaner). Anyone knows the initial mixture and throtle screws for trying to tune the dual 3K-B carbs? Maybe I start from there and if it works start trying to tune it a little bit. Another thing. Anyone here connects the crank case hose to the intake manifold? Or you use catch can or air breather? BR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fu-Leng Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Hi all. Last friday I could start it again. I opened the mixture screws 2 full turns each and closed the choke and it started and kept idling. Check the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c47QsJSwNv4 But I noticed that it's leaking fuel while idling. I thinks it might be the sealants that are old, so I ordered 2 repair kits. Now I'll have to wait for the parts to fix the carbs. In the meanwhile I'll start putting everything together inside the car. I need to mount the dash, check electrical stuff, etc. I also need to get my hands on the right door inside panel (or I'll have to fabricate one). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 How is the timing setting Jose? Have you checked the points gap and got that right, then set the dizzy timing? It sounded a bit flat in the video, I thought maybe it was retarded too far. Don't they all rattle terribly on a video camera soundtrack! Much worse than when you're standing there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 sounds like its running to rich? do a valve adjustment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fu-Leng Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 (edited) How is the timing setting Jose? Have you checked the points gap and got that right, then set the dizzy timing? It sounded a bit flat in the video, I thought maybe it was retarded too far. Don't they all rattle terribly on a video camera soundtrack! Much worse than when you're standing there! Hi. When I put the distributor, it only entered on a position that was not supposed to (after I put the timing mark on 8 degrees). Then I rotated the dizzy until have a spark, and rotate it back a little. I'll try to rotate it a little bit to left and right while it's working to see if I can notice some changes. When you're asking about the points gap, you're talking about the gap that's created while the dizzy rotor spins? It should be around 1mm, right? And another thing. On the video I don't have a muffler, only the collectors straight to the end :) sounds like its running to rich? do a valve adjustment? Probably it's too rich, you might be right - I was using 2 full turns on the mixture screws. No valve adjustment yet. I'll do that when I have more time for that. First I need to start putting all together again, because the car was stripped down for repairing and painting. BR José Martins Edited October 24, 2011 by Fu-Leng Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Take the plugs out and check that they're not burned away and set them at 0.8m. Leave them out. Set the tappets at 0.2mm inlets and 0.3mm exhaust. Points gap is 0.45mm, so set that with the little rubbing block on the square corner of the dizzy cam so that is the maximum gap it ever makes. You should buy yourself a timing light, you'll use it for years, but if not you can do this. Rotate the motor until number one cyl is firing (you watch for #4 valves crossing over) and put the timing mark on the pulley at 10deg before the top dead center mark. Turn the ignition on and rotate the dizzy back until the points are just opening. If you move it back and forth at that point you will hear and see a spark across the points. That's when it will fire the coil. Not as accurate as a timing light, but pretty good. Then put it all back together and tackle the carbs. These motors seem happy with more advance than the 8deg the manuals say, so 10 or 12deg will be fine.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fu-Leng Posted October 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 It sounded a bit flat in the video, I thought maybe it was retarded too far. Don't they all rattle terribly on a video camera soundtrack! Much worse than when you're standing there! It was not on firing correctly. I turned the dizzy clockwise about 10deg and it sounded better (it looks like it revs higher now, at least by the sound), but it still dies if I take the choke off, so I guess is still too rich probably (I was using about 2 1/2 turns on the mixture screws). I'll have to rebuild the carbs because they are leaking, and also my radiator is leaking - need to get my hands on a good one. Thanks for everything guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fu-Leng Posted October 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 Hi all I bought 2 rebuild kits for the carbs. They were identified as kits for the KE10 carb, but I believe most of the parts are exactly the same so I bouth them (as they were cheap - less than 30€ for both, including delivery). So I started the dismantling and because I don't have carb cleaner I used thinner instead (after removing all the gaskets). I didn't found Carb cleaner in Portugal, what we have here is only the sprays, not the stuff to let the carb taking a "bath" :) So, after using thinner, I cleanned everything with gasoline, and mount it again, using the new parts and gaskets. These kits do some miracles, after mounting them on the intake manifold, I tried to start the engine, and after some seconds (they didn't have any gas on them) they started and kept idling :). I notice that the "power piston" (at least I think that it's name, the "nail" on top and middle on fthe carb - between the mouths) was stuck on both carbs, and the mixture screws were damaged - overtight. Now I think it's good, and I'll post a video the next time I go to the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted October 31, 2011 Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 Excellent! Get the timing set with a timing light and it should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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