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Ke30 Front Suspension Queries


Trent-KE30

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sounds like it corners like a ke30! i had one doing the same, fixed most of it with caster adjustment and a wheel alignment but one rail was 40mm shorter than the other so it was never great I'm guessing your cars a pig on left handers but fair on rights? last owner probably hit a gutter

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sounds like it corners like a ke30! i had one doing the same, fixed most of it with caster adjustment and a wheel alignment but one rail was 40mm shorter than the other so it was never great I'm guessing your cars a pig on left handers but fair on rights? last owner probably hit a gutter

 

 

ah right, so it may not be the cut springs that the person before me had, i was gonna get some kings lows for it but i may not bother now..

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Cut springs will screw your handling if done wrong.

 

If its sloppy and it bodyrolls from side to side, chances are all the suspension bushes are flogged out and dead.

 

I put brand new nolethane bushes in my KE70 and it sits quite tight on cornering now. The aftermarket lowered suspension helps too :)

 

Welcome to Rollaclub!

 

 

Thanks Nick for the welcome, nothing would surprise me with this car lol... prolly done wrong but i hope to pick up some low kingers for the front very shortly as soon as the new axle goes in! hopefully that will make a bit of a difference. i saw the car up on the hoist and the springs were just dangling off the top of the strut, which is a bit of a worry and i think thats why it bounces around corners!

 

 

cheers

 

Nick..

Edited by ae92 sedan
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On another note...

 

Fitting RA40 struts and brakes to a KE3x.

 

Why do you have to cut the spring perch off?? And will the bigger Celica brakes work ok with the rest of the Corolla braking system?? (master cylinder etc)

 

And will they be much stiffer??

 

Hi guys, just found this forum and thought I would post. I know this is a bit old but here goes.

 

The spring perch doesn't "really" need to be removed but it is a bigger diameter than the corolla ones. The corolla top spring mount and spring will go onto the RA40 strut but the spring wont sit properly in the bottom spring perch. This is why I will be swapping the celica spring perch for the corolla ones (unless I come into some more money and splurge on adjustable coil overs ). I haven't done this yet as I am still slowly doing the engine swap and will concentrate on the struts after the engine swap and body work is done.

The ride height will only be too high if you try to use the celica springs (which wont fit in the strut tower anyway).

 

As for the corona strut upgrade, if you are doing the full corona, hilux, peugot upgrade then it will be A LOT better than the RA40 upgrade. The reason I am using the RA40 struts is because I got them for free. The RA40 discs are solid but are still a fair bit bigger than the standard corolla ones. I have pics comparing the two on my web page (click on the link in my sig :| ).

 

For the master cylinder, I am going to use an AE71 master cylinder and booster. The master cylinder is the same bore as the RA40 and the booster is bigger than the KE30 one. :P .

 

Hope this is helpfull to others thinking of this upgrade.

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why the bigger booster? it doesnt make the brakes work any better, just makes the pedal easyer to push, which in a small car or for sports driving means crap pedal feeling and easy brake lockups, not often you find any booster on a race car

 

 

ae92 sedan... for a second i thought you where giving up on your car cos i had a bent chassy rail, then i figured what you where saying bout the springs

Edited by thomo
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ok i have tried fitting ta22 struts with ke55 tops into a ke30 but it seems like the two bottom control arm bolts didnt line up, do i have to use the ra40 or sigma gh lcas? are they meant to bolt straight in? Also how much of an upgrade are these in the braking department as compared to the corona brakes?

 

Thanks

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why the bigger booster? it doesnt make the brakes work any better, just makes the pedal easyer to push, which in a small car or for sports driving means crap pedal feeling and easy brake lockups, not often you find any booster on a race car

 

I'm building a car for the street not the track :P .

I am trying to get as close to a factory feel as possible. This car will probably get driven by my wife as well as my self so I want it to be easy to drive as well as fun.

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