ANother manifold too keep a keen eye out for is the "SK Sanyo " veeery rare for a k series but also one of the best

also TRD but we all know that

Ah.. if only the motor stood upright!

Sorry, but that is where my philosophy differs, paying 5 times what I paid for my last 4K plus gearbox?

 

Pass :)

 

If any motor is worth it, it's the K motor!

The manifolds go for about $350 on Yahoo auctions

+ postage to Streeter

+ Streeters commision

+ postage to Aus

You might get one for $500 to your door.

And you know it's going to be top shit, Kameari are the go to guys for L-series - they make a mean looking set of 6-1 extractors.

ANother manifold too keep a keen eye out for is the "SK Sanyo " veeery rare for a k series but also one of the best

also TRD but we all know that

 

Yeah there's one of those on Yahoo atm, used, $200ish, looks like a decent manifold.

Sorry, but that is where my philosophy differs, paying 5 times what I paid for my last 4K plus gearbox?

 

Pass :)

 

Well then you'll fall over when you hear what my 5k will cost.

No doubt. As I said, my philosophy probably differs!

ALlrighty so what do we all consider silly money to spend on a k series to make good power?? I Know kikn5k has spent some good

money to get his goin, and a few others also. Real power costs money how fast you wanna go is up to your back pocket and talent

you have to keep costs down( fabrication assembly etc) My ke10 is a toy for me and my boy to play with and ill be throwin some

money at it to make sure its good before he gets in it, Luckily I'm a panelbeater spraypainter so that should make this venture quite

affordable. Ps The fastest na k series challenge on another rollaclub forum has me excited i beleive kikn 5k is building one for the

title we might join in with the feral4k......

my engine machinist told me that 4k's will start cracking blocks if pushed past 8000rpm, they need to be aleast part crout filled to stand up to those harmonics. and all that assumes that your rockers arms are still attached to the engine. your rods should be ok i've heard that factory 4k rods are pretty stout and handle quite abit of punishment. when I get my ke55 back from the tuner I'll tell how it goes, it's pretty much much stock bottom end but with 3k head and 295 cams and 8000 redline and twin carbs. if i blow it up quick you'll know your answer lol.

it's pretty much much stock bottom end but with 3k head and 295 cams and 8000 redline and twin carbs.

 

What sort of flywheel? Did you have it all balanced?

just took way too much off the stocky, has gone from about 7.5ish kg to some like 5.7kg and yes the whole rotating asbembly was balanced.

That should be OK. Mine is about 6kg. There are a couple of guys on here reckon 8000rpm is possible once they're balanced, but the factory bakance is not good at all. Philfrederick's twincam 4K hits nine, its still a 4K crank but its been pretty heavily machined.

the main problem i found is the crank, it is cast iron and only semi-counterbalanced so as the revs increase each individual throw becomes more out of balance and that creates crank-whip and will crack in the big end radius. to try and reduce this i machined a lot of weight out of the counterbalances and polished and shot-peened it, never had a problem, but it was not sitting at 9500+ all day.

 

luckily i didnt have to worry about all the pushrod stuff, that is a lot of stuff flapping about up there.

mine

 

stock

 

after machining and before shot peening

looks sweet, I put spool forged rods in mine so it looks like I'll destroy the crank and block before anything else. I've limited mine to 8000rpm my cam is rated from 3500 to 7500 for that reason. but how power can I expect from these engines? this is my first 4k build.

You can boast if you get 70kw out of a NA 4k.