GJM85 Posted December 1, 2011 Report Posted December 1, 2011 I have a ke55 carb on my 5k. I have put a new kit through it and removed all of the emission gear and blocked off all of the vacuum ports with the exception of the vac advance line. Does anyone know if the carburettor will still function properly with all the shit removed and if not what really needs to be there. I ask because I can't get it to idle below 1200rpm with stopping. It carries on like a vacuum leak but i'd be the product of three retared monkeys having butt sex with a squirrel fish if you could find one. Cheers. Quote
B.L.Z.BUB Posted December 1, 2011 Report Posted December 1, 2011 i'd be the product of three retared monkeys having butt sex with a squirrel fish :lolcry::lolcry::lolcry::lolcry::lolcry::lolcry::lolcry::lolcry: Quote
altezzaclub Posted December 1, 2011 Report Posted December 1, 2011 Does it have or did it have the fuel cut-off solenoid on the idle circuit? Sounds like it doesn't have the idle circuit working. Timing is OK?? Quote
towe001 Posted December 1, 2011 Report Posted December 1, 2011 Is the carby from an auto ? It could be the choke breaker keeping the choke partly closed, it needs vacuum to keep keep the choke open. Unless you want to hunt up an early 3k carby that doesn't come with all the emissions and possibly swap over the jets etc from the 4k. Could be the easier option Quote
GJM85 Posted December 2, 2011 Author Report Posted December 2, 2011 (edited) It does have a fuel or "anti-deiseling" solenoid but it doesn't make a difference if its connected or not. Maybe its f@$ked? Can you buy new ones or can you just take it out and bung it up? Towe, I do have a 3k carb but I think its a bit small. Not only that there is so much wear in the throttle shafts its like a permanent vacuum leak. I actually looked at removing the 3k linkage setup and using it on the 4k carb to effectively give it mechanical secondaries. It would have been way better, but like I said the shafts a really loose. Edited December 2, 2011 by GJM85 Quote
Evan G Posted December 2, 2011 Report Posted December 2, 2011 if you hold the throttle linkage down, will the idle stay down? Quote
altezzaclub Posted December 2, 2011 Report Posted December 2, 2011 It does have a fuel or "anti-deiseling" solenoid but it doesn't make a difference if its connected or not. There's your problem. It is permanently shut, so no fuel goes through the idle circuit. Take it out and test it with a 12V wire. I suppose there are still new ones available, although plenty of guys on here must have one lying around 1 Quote
GJM85 Posted December 2, 2011 Author Report Posted December 2, 2011 What should it do when I test it? Open and close or something? Quote
towe001 Posted December 2, 2011 Report Posted December 2, 2011 Yeah, open and close. It'll make a clicking sound with power. The body is the ground and the wire is 12v. So just place the body on the neg terminal of the battery and tap the wire on the positive, if its working you'll hear and feel the solenoid clicking on and off. 1 Quote
GJM85 Posted December 2, 2011 Author Report Posted December 2, 2011 Sweet. I give it a go this morning. Quote
GJM85 Posted December 3, 2011 Author Report Posted December 3, 2011 (edited) Rerouted the solenoid wire directly to the battery.... spent the next hour driving around the estate.............................. woo mutha f@$king HOOOO!!!!! This is the first time I've been blown off by a car. Oh yeah! I meant it that way.... :o Thanks Guys Edited December 3, 2011 by GJM85 Quote
altezzaclub Posted December 3, 2011 Report Posted December 3, 2011 Lol!! Don't leave it connected, it will drain the battery... So, you've lost the feed from the key, it sholdn't be too hard to trace. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.