$1500 will probably buy you a 5k with a sp and some tractors. A good starting point, as funds come through do things properly.

 

try starting around 500. if the rust is so bad that that doesn't help, sandblast then try again.

If theyre alloy, youll want to start off with an alloy cleaner, and scrub hard with some dishwasher brushes. then try 1200+.

kinda moved away from the 5k idea and more towards the 4k until i can save up and get some knowledge for an sr, also I'm pretty sure they alloy? will grab some pictures tomorrow as i got home late today

I'm that ʞ©$ɟing far over it, theres like a steering lock on it? and i lost the keys... might just burn the pile of shit and go buy one

got me some ke30 bumpers

Sounds like your not really taking care of it dude, hence why no one is really replying.

 

I painted my wheels in a plain silver from supercheap auto. I used 240, then 600 grit sand paper to rough up the wheels, then lightly with 800 to get it all smooth. Then applied 3 coats of paint, lightly ;). Clear coat them will be alot better!

 

As for engines, K series motors are slow, leak and in efficient. however they are Reliable and will last forever if you treat them with respect. You will get beaten by stock v6 commodores and the humble prius. Thats the ugly truth.

 

Put a 4k in, with a good tune up (spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, points, condenser and get the timing right)

 

My 4k made 32kws at the wheels (40hp) which was 10% of my last weekend car that i sold. And to be honest. Its almost just as fun!

 

Enjoy the car the way they were made :)

Edited March 2, 201214 yr by TarmacAttack

yeah my lecture is and engine re-conditioner and he quoted me 170 to get bored out and ruffly 150 for a set of pistons 1.5mm bigger but that was for a 4k and what do you mean by not taking care? jw :)

Also at tafe we had a a12 motor which has 4 bike carbs, would be pretty cool to do

Burnouts, crashing into other cars, loosing keys etc... But anyway.

 

All depends what you want from the car though? What do you want it to do?

it was my brother that done the burnout and crashed it haha :/ me and my brother been racing ke30/55 for about 10ish years between us and i just got to like them i guess

was ment to work on it this w/e but went out instead, looking at buying a brand new Weber and he only wants 120 for it, it is a Weber 36DCNVA?/ has anyone used this type before I'm guessing i can use it because people run them on there dattos and escort etc?!?!!??!!?!?!?!?

one of the main differences between them, is the choke setup from memory?

 

plus the venturi size on the dcnva were both 36 and opened at the same time, unlike the others, that have a smaller primary, and a slightly larger secondary circuit.

meaning, that you are opening both throats at the same time with the dcnva.

correct me if I'm wrong guys?

i personally don't like them and would suggest you wait for a 32/36 to pop up for sale, with an adapter plate, for about the same price, on here mate.

i'd honestly say it wont be brand new either, at best re manufactured, or reconditioned

 

 

 

edit if you must stay with this one, http://www.matraclub...res/dcnva16.htm is a nice setup/tune up guide

hope this helps, mate

 

36 dcnva, generally run as pairs

 

 

 

32/36 dgva weber, common for parts, easy to tune, reasonably cheap

Edited March 5, 201214 yr by nerfbat

allright to easy thanks for that, he did say it was new old stock? bought it a few years ago and has never used it. guess i should be looking for a 32/3 weber:)

 

they are the rims i will be using i gave them ring a quick polish but the middle is alloy is wasnt as easy :/

also some ke30 bumpers

Edited March 5, 201214 yr by xr8racer

they come up a treat, mate..!

my 55:) doesnt look to flash here but I'm glad i stored it in the shed