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Video-What'S Up With My Valves?


CorollaNut68

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Hey Rolla people...Still trying to figure out what this sound is...valves clearances are good, pistons and rings are new, what would make this one valve puff like that? Is there a sleeve in there that might be leaking into the top instead of all going out the exhaust. The head is one thing I've never taken completely apart myself...I've got another one in my shed that's cracked...possibly scavenge something from it?

th_Valves_mpeg2video.jpg

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Buy a compression guage and do a compression test. ....or have a garage do one, preferably a leak-down test.

 

Remember that #2cyl exhaust valve opens as #1cyl comes up on compression, so maybe we can hear the exhaust valve in #1cyl leaking.

 

If it is the #2cyl exhaust squeaking as it opens.. well, a dry valve guide, a ruined valve stem seal, a worn/dry rocker... I've never heard that noise before, except from a burnt valve.

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It definitely comes from the #2 exhaust, I'll just have to wait til I can take it to the machine shop and have the valves done. Early on in throwing this back together, in too big a hurry, there was a pretty big explosion (wish I had that on video :))Had the diz 180 out and it blew hard enough to pop the valve cover gasket all the way around...big cloud of smoke haha....So I think I blew all that pressure up that valve stem. Ahhh... the joys of "shade tree" ...trying to work on cars using stone tools and bearskins.

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Had the diz 180 out and it blew hard enough to pop the valve cover gasket all the way around.

 

That's odd... but odd things do happen! The explosion should have gone passed the open inlet and back up the manifold through the carb. The exhaust valve would have been sealed shut, and that much exploding gas shouldn't have got passed the inlet valve stem seal..

 

We had the same when fitting twin DCOEs on the Datsun 510 one time and we used a welding torch to bend the steel PCV pipe coming out of the block under them. The fuel had flooded past the rings into the crankcase and ignited inside the motor. When we started it there was a terrible clack clack clack... it had blown the oil splash plate inside the top of the tappet cover downwards and a cam lobe was tapping it!

 

If you'd been cranking it and pumping the throttle you might have had the same.

 

Why did you do pistons and rings? What did the valves look like when you had the head off?? I assume you didn't take them out.

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Well I say new...there's hardly any miles on them...I did a complete rebuild in 2007...a few months later in early 2008 the rod cap dropped off, having not been torqued properly(I knew I was getting old), from the #1 piston. It slowly lost power on the freeway til I came to a stop and when I tried to start it again there was a loud clack and it locked up. Parked it, bought a motorcycle and left it for 3 years. Finally had to try and get it running, tore it down to see what was wrong....replaced the rod and bearings...(cleaned fuel tank, lines, carb)...the #1 piston had a small chip out of it where the rod bent against it, having no money decided to see what it would do...no other cracks or signs of trauma...threw it together and it was enough difference to make the engine shake at low rpms...(That first try was when the explosion occurred)...tore it back down completely and balanced the pistons a bit better by shaving the skirts a tad...put it back together once again...much smoother but still working out all the crap from sitting for 3 years and this new thing......whew! And I'm broke! If I was less broke, I could get it running, if I could get it running, I would be less broke. :bash:

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shaving the skirts a tad.

 

lol! That was my job when I was a teenager working odd hours at a general engineer's & we built a beach buggy... Lightened everything and weighed the pistons & had it all balanced.

 

So.... I'd love to think the #1 piston touched the exhaust valve and bent it a fraction, which is what it sounds like, but if its in #2 I just don't know.

 

..and it hasn't run enough to colour the valves from that incident. A cyl low on compression has black exhaust valves, while a good one has ash-brown valves. I don't suppose you can remember what they looked like...

 

Compression test or head off I suppose.

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holy dooly thats commitment to that engine!

 

id just cut your losses and get another running 4k.

 

100bucks will get you something running, swap it over in an afternoon and your back on the road.

 

alternatively, compression test and all will be revealed. If its low - head off down to machinist for a condition report.

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holy dooly thats commitment to that engine!

 

id just cut your losses and get another running 4k.

 

100bucks will get you something running, swap it over in an afternoon and your back on the road.

 

alternatively, compression test and all will be revealed. If its low - head off down to machinist for a condition report.

Yeah i've gathered from reading on here that over there, K motors are "throwaways"...a dime a dozen.....not the case here, practically non-existant. I have spotted what looks to be about a '78 or '79 rolla sitting at a storage facility, but I can't make an offer till work picks up....it should have a K or a T in it...and i would love to have a fifth gear in this thing...I haven't tried climbing the fence to see yet :)

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..and it hasn't run enough to colour the valves from that incident. A cyl low on compression has black exhaust valves, while a good one has ash-brown valves. I don't suppose you can remember what they looked like...

 

Compression test or head off I suppose.

They were all brown....but that is a good tidbit to know, I'll remember that, thanks. I can't remember for sure when the last time I had the valves done. I have found a better machine shop to work with though.. already does a lot of antique stuff, Willy's Jeeps, hot rods and such. http://www.rebelrebuilders.com. ( He also said he might need some help soon :dance: :dance: ha ha ...real tools to play with :P no more trying to carve pistons out of stone and making pushrods out of sticks! but we will see...

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out of curiosity, according to the FAQ, this 3K head 24010-200 is listed as a "Bigport without water jackets" what does that mean? (It does have water passages).

 

I also have one with just 22010 stamped on it, but it has some cracks and may be from the original 1.1 K. (I Still have the 1.1 block too, but no crank or anything.(it's not listed on your FAQ 1969 1077cc K-C)

 

I ran that head (22010) on a 1.2 3K that I bought still in the factory crate for $300. I believe now it must have been a "Factory Reject" or something. I squeezed 250,000 miles out of it but by the end, it had cracks running all through it. First noticed one under the exhaust that leaked water from the side of the block...patched at it for years, it would just seep...when it finally wouldn't run any more...it had a crack all the way from #1 to #3...#1, 2 and 3 pistons were all cracked, Cam nearly lobeless in some places...it was pitiful. The only thing I'm still using from that engine is the crank and pushrods.

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  • 1 month later...

:dance::dance:Hooray...got it sorted out finally....I had the head gone over. I had to rob some stuff off another cracked head I had laying around. Two "new" exhaust valves, seats and remaining valves reground, all new guides, cleaned water passages and a very light skim to make sure it;s flat. Still wasn't quite acting right so I finally broke down and took off the timing cover off to make sure there was no way in hell I had gotten the gears off a tooth......hah! two teeth...damn! Anyway got it all lined up properly, started on the first bump and purrs like a kitten. Took it out on the freeway, goes right up and cruises at 70mph and accelerates very well from 70 up....actually had to slow myself down...gonna treat it like a new engine for a bit. So fellas, do not stay up all night putting an engine together...get some rest....shake the cobwebs out first.....dang I'm getting old.

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