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81 LIFTBACK

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Aight guys I got another one for ya!!!! First of all I got a 1981 TE72 Liftback, my problem is my dash light,dome light and trunk light doesn't work an I Been hearing about this mysteriuos fuse box. I only have 2 that I know of,which are the engine and left kick panel, but also I got a problem with my taillights but my brake lights work when applied,also my bulbs in the taillights are the dual standard( I don't know the actual name) one more thing I need to get a few light sockets for the turn signals but I don't know how to put it on I'm guessing I cut the old sockets off an just wire the new ones on??? SO GUYS HELP ME OUT PLZZZ!!!

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I think pics are in order. I'm not sure from what you are saying what the problem is.

A multimeter is a must, even a cheap one will do. I can teach you how to use it, they are very simple devices.

Why would the sockets be different? Have you done some body loom changes or something?

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Ok I get what's going on now. You are definitely going to have to post some pics up so that we can give you spot on advice otherwise it's all going to be

subjective. What it sounds like is that it is the actual plugs on the back of the light bulb? Or is it the plug that leads off from the light bulb?

Best advice without seeing it is to obviously replace the plugs.

 

A multimeter tutorial.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWZfD73Xs1M

 

Digital multimeter will not all look the same but will all carry the same basic functions.

The most important features that you will use is the voltage or continuity range.

The voltage function lets you see that there is power being applied to a circuit and how much voltage there is present in the system.

The continuity function is a very useful tool. Say you have a bunch of wires that are all the same colour sticking out of your dash

and the other side of the bunch is through the firewall in the engine bay. You want to know which wire goes where but you cannot pull them through

so you can not physically identify them. With the continuity test you place a probe on the end of one wire, walk to the engine bay and start probing

the wires at the other end until the multi meter starts buzzing at you.

 

Anyway, with the light bulb connectors you will be able to see if there is voltage present at the connector without having the bulb in place.

You place the black (earth) probe to exposed metal on the car body and the red (active/live) on the pins/sockets going to the bulb. Turn the power on the the lights.

Check all of the pins/sockets for voltage. usually on a interior lamp it is just two sockets, one for earth and one for voltage. You can test which one is for earth

with the continuity tester by touching the car body and then a pin/socket on the plug. When you find the earth pin/socket then it just leaves the other pin/socket to be the voltage connection. So if that remaining pin does not have a voltage on it when you probe it, it means that either the wire leading to the pin is broken or a fuse has blown.

 

Brake/Headlights are usually 3 pin sockets unless you have multiple bulbs in which case there would be two light bulbs (two pin each) and an indicator light (2 pin).

If it is a three pin light then say for a headlight one pin is earth, one pin is low beam and the last pin is high beam. For brake lights it is the same.

 

But by the sounds of connections being rusted to buggery i would say a simple connector replace might fix the problem. Certainly you would want to replace them even if it were

not the case.

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