Have purchased a working setup long motor for rego, and will continue to fully rebuild every part of the current 4k, but will take my time and put it in at a later stage.

 

Long motor includes:

4k, with near new water pump, only needing a timing chain replacement

 

Adding to this I will be purchasing new (3k variants):

fuel pump, alternator, double row timing chain and tensioner, carb kit, filter, extractors and new 1 3/4 exhaust

 

used items being fitted include:

3k bigport manifold, 3k carb, 3k clutch fan, 4k dizzy with electronic conversion kit, mounts, clutch, flywheel and k50, all of which are in fantastic condition.

 

The brake system is going to be entirely new, all except the rigid lines.

The suspension and bushes front and back are all being replaced.

The bearings and uni joints in the diff and tail shaft are all being replaced.

A brand new wiring loom and relays are being made.

The interior is only getting Hyundai excel seats, new carpet and a tunnel patch/shift boot made up.

 

All of the above will be done by Christmas or early January, this includes rego on the road.

 

After rego will come the new dash pad, new relined seats, sound system, new classic gauges, new classic driving lights off a spare bumper, 4x114 conversion with brake upgrade, t50 short shift kit on k50 and in time a complete strip, repair and respray

Edited June 21, 201313 yr by jay_howie

On their way are:

 

- Electronic distributor conversion for my Nippon Denso 3k dizzy

- Low King springs for front

- Refurbished ke20 radiator

The reco'd radiator that some of you may have seem on ebay for some time. its not perfect, but a hell of alot better than my current one. I will get a custom alloy one made up in time but for now this is OK.

 

The last photo is the ACCU electronic distributor conversion to a standard 3k ke20 late model point dizzy. it fits perfectly where the points and condenser used to live. The wiring grommet also fitted the external condenser hole perfectly. Only problem with this conversion? rotor wont fit on top!

 

Low king springs (30mm) for front arrived also, in the next few months I will be taking the back end off, rebuilding then the front ends off, rebuilding and finally the engine in and wiring etc.

hey mate, from where did you bought that electronic conversion kit??? is it hotspark ignition system???

 

i'm also finding one to my 3k dizzy... is there a specific part number to ask when i'm asking to buy or is it compatible to every dizzy??

 

thanks :y:

Hey mate, just search accu spark for nipon denso in ebay. Mine was listed as a ke20 conversion kit, so was made for my dizzy. Didnt have a part number so i can't help you there. Also the rotor does fit ontop perfectly now, just had to push the center piece down a bit further (was a tight fit)

So I have finally got the money I was waiting on and have gone ahead and purchased;

 

2 more axle stands, so now have 4

 

por15 to coat underside components

 

Rear Brakes

-Drums

-Shoes

-Cylinders

 

Suspension and drivetrain

-rear and front urethane bush kits

-rear Monroe shocks

-ball joints, tie rod ends and idler/pitman arms

-rear wheel bearings and diff bearings

 

engine and gearbox

-timing chain kit

-mechanical fuel pump

-flywheel bolts

-second hand engine crossmember (other one had 3sgte engine mounts welded on)

-second hand speedo cable

 

A few more bits left to get, and I will be bringing the rolla home, stripping it down and rebuilding the suspension and drivetrain and getting the engine, gearbox and tailshaft in.

 

Unfortunately I wont be left with enough to rebuild all the front strut components right now.

 

After this its just interior bits, wiring, exhaust and a few engine components.

 

Pics to come!

Edited September 19, 201313 yr by jay_howie

Almost done stripping the driveline, suspension, steering etc etc. I have a couple of photos to upload too.

 

I have alot of shagged out parts, almost all ball joints were ʞ©$ɟed, both brakes were rooted, drums were siezed, most bushes were rotten. Snapped 2 bolts so far on areas like the exhuast and leaf springs, but so far all good.

 

Plan is to strip and grind back/sandblast everything removed, por15 it, then replace anything mechanic and put it all back together.

 

The underside will be stripped of stonegaurd and also por15, and the boot will get por15, as there is alot of surface rust.

 

All new brake lines are added to the list, the originals are ʞ©$ɟed, so I will go dual circuit with future ke55 rear/ke70 front upgrades in mind for the future.

 

So I have all the mechanical parts now minus the front brakes, brake lines, master cylinder, swaybar links, front calliper overhaul kits, steering box bearings/seals and tailshaft uni's

Anyone need a 2-2.5" exhaust (3" tip) to suit a ke20?

 

The boot and floor pans inside have a bit of surface rust, will also grind back and por15 these, the spare wheel well is the worst.

 

Found a place to do all my brake lines in steel with new fittings for around $100, which is pretty good. Have also ordered new flexible lines (front and back) and hand brake cables (forward and rear), so the entire brake system is brand new now.

 

The diff exterior was covered in 3mm of mud and oil all over, scrapped it back, but will degrease it properly soon and por15 it.

 

Any ideas on how to get the center out, it appears to have been silicone on :( levering isn't working and I'm just damaging the casing!

Edited September 26, 201313 yr by jay_howie

being an aero-tech by trade makes things easy. Access to sandblasters, de-greasing baths, presses, benders, tools etc etc

 

Another surprise came in the form of my headlights, they appear to be h4 converted already, had an extra diff center in the boot too.

 

Not many photos of the stripping, as its pretty boring, but I will upload a lot more as the build starts!

 

Anyone got any ideas on how to clean out a fuel tank? and also where I can get a new filler neck from? Mines rusty!

 

Can anyone guess the gearbox behind my k50 cross-member?

Edited September 26, 201313 yr by jay_howie