Ok i've read about shimming k series oil pumps on the forums and in the how to build a tough k motor FAQ for more oil pressure but i have never seen how it is actually done.

So is this what i do or have i got it all wrong?

 

Undo this bolt in the side of the oil pump

 

 

Remove bolt to find spring

 

 

Place 3mm washer / shim inside bolt to add more tension to spring then reassemble

 

 

Is it all that simple? If not can someone tell me how its done.

 

Thanks,

Haydn

Sadly not so simple, that is the oil filter and the oil pump is in the sump.

 

Right idea, wrong place. That will increase the pressure at which the oil bypasses a blocked filter, while you want the same sort of arrangement on the pump that raises the maximum pressure.

 

Best to be done when you have the motor out and in bits for bearings or rings etc, its a shit getting the sump off without pulling the motor out.

Sadly not so simple, that is the oil filter and the oil pump is in the sump.

 

Right idea, wrong place. That will increase the pressure at which the oil bypasses a blocked filter, while you want the same sort of arrangement on the pump that raises the maximum pressure.

 

Best to be done when you have the motor out and in bits for bearings or rings etc, its a shit getting the sump off without pulling the motor out.

Ok didn't think it would be that easy i'll have a look at one of my spare motors tomorrow and see if i can work it out

Ok round 2

 

 

Remove split pin

Be careful as the spring and cup are under tension and will pop out don't want to lose either

 

 

 

Remove spring and cup

 

 

Place 3mm shim in spring cup as recommended in how to build a tough k motor

 

 

Replace spring,cup,shim and split pin.I'm assuming this is the correct way to do it,if not please feel free to correct me.

yep-

 

But make sure you pull the pump apart and measure the wear gap at the end of the rotor arms, and check the base plate & housing for wear grooves. These will allow oil to sneak back around the pump rotor and reduce the pressure.

Edited January 1, 201313 yr by altezzaclub

Cool thanks for the confirmation,i have 2-3 pumps here so i'll pick the best one to start with when it comes time to rebuild. Hopefully i will be able to post up pics ect of of my rebuild showing how to do certain things as its great reading about what to do but pics make things much easier.

Has anyone seen a spec for the pump wear before?

As in what the clearances are meant to be? I have for a KE70 4K item.

 

Outer rotor to body clearance: 0.10mm - 0.16mm

Inner rotor tip clearance: 0.04mm - 0.16mm

Rotor end float 0.03mm - 0.09mm

Cool thread and great idea 1 question would i have to run some type of restrictor with this mod with the rpm I'm running

so i don't empty the sump and starve the mains at nine grand???

Shouldn't do, the increased spring pressure puts more oil through the motor and not the bypass, but it should all drain back just as fast. I think it only has an effect when the oil is cold, I remember my guage used to show 65psi when cold, and 45psi when hot.

 

I've never seen anything about how much of the 4litres is NOT in the sump when driving, it would be interesting to measure somehow. If oil level was a problem I'm sure you'd have the red light flashing around corners, like 18RGs do.

jesus, don't know what i've done but my gauge reads 90 on cold and 60-65 on hot. is that bad?

jesus, don't know what i've done but my gauge reads 90 on cold and 60-65 on hot. is that bad?

 

No, it just means the sensors & the gauges are different or your bearings are in much better condition than mine were

Has anyone seen a spec for the pump wear before?

As in what the clearances are meant to be? I have for a KE70 4K item.

 

Outer rotor to body clearance: 0.10mm - 0.16mm

Inner rotor tip clearance: 0.04mm - 0.16mm

Rotor end float 0.03mm - 0.09mm

The pump i did this to came out of a well thrashed 4k that looked like it hasn't had too many oil changes later in its life (as you can see in the pics above) it also has a broken piston skirt and the pump was still well within specs. I don't think wear would be much of a problem with this mod.

 

After a quick clean up and new split pin