Luk3333's 1982 Ke70

[luk3333]

Central coast unfortunately, Thanks though

[luk3333]

Does anyone do a minispool for the Ke70 diffs?

 

Anyway, update time.

 

Firstly guards have been rolled / beaten

 

Tools of choice:

 

before

 

after

 

Only resulted in the one dent in the front left guard which I could have banged out. Has reduced the scrubbing a lot but still rubs at the front on tight turns a little.

 

Also, since buying the replacement diff i had a spare sway bar. :hmm:

 

 

This is probably the best dollar to performance upgrade I have done, cost almost nothing, took about 4hrs to design, fabricate and install and has improved the handling astronomically. Double the sway bar, double the cross sectional area, double the stiffness! I want to make another set though with bushings for the two middle brackets. Both end brackets are made of 3mm bar, 20mm wide and the inner brackets are made of 2 pieces of sheet bent and bolted together. Not heaps happy with the brackets solution so I'm going to make something up with 3mm plate and supper pro bushes.

[B.L.Z.BUB]

Get a length of box steel . Cut it say 100mm long. Drill two holes in it same diameter of sway bay. Cut down the middle length ways Through the center of the holes . Use the two halves to clamp the bars together.

 

If you get what I mean

 

Edited April 8, 2013 by B.L.Z.BUB

[luk3333]

Yea, that'd work

[luk3333]

So not a whole lot has been happening with the 'rolla lately. Since the sway bar upgrade which has been working beautifully there have been a few minor modifications.

- Front guards bare metalled and clear coated. I really like this, the texture of it adds another dimension.

- Repainted yellowed door. Colour wasn't exact but its not yellow so hey.

- Put floor mats in, just black cheapies, but it adds a level of refinement.

- Drove around with so much toe I wore out agood set of tires in 4 weeks. I am a tad annoyed at myself for this...

-Chucked some decals on the rear window

- GK Tech steering wheel installed and boss. This wheel is awesome and fairly cheap. Since installing it, I have actually enjoyed driving the car so much more.

 

 

 

and that is about all the attention the KE has received. I also picked up a postie bike which I've stripped and I'm repainting black and a army sort of green. Green frame, black or chrome everything else. The bike is a '94. The engine was seized and when I opened it up it was full of mud and rust so that went in the bin. It's being replaced by a brand new 125cc chinese motor. I basically want to build this bike as something a bit different to your average postie and as a cheap run around. It will have flat handle bars, low profile LED indicators and brake lights, and new seat design and hopefully a new fuel tank up front rather than under the seat.

 

I have also been teaching myself some programming and electronics. I'm currently building a datalogger which will be able to display pressure and temperatures via 4 digit displays like my AFR, with configurable warning lights. It will also be able to interface with a laptop and java application via usb for data logging direct to computer and for configuring the warning lights. Once its built I want to start including other variables for data logging such as rpm, AFR, and TPS.

 

Me and my friends also built a 125cc go kart which is awesome fun.

 

And i found an RA40 Celica hiding in my local wreckers. Still has its 18RG but no carb :( And a overrated looking cressida was sitting there too.

 

Anyway back to the KE. It has developed a bit of a heat gasket issue and has a bit of a drinking problem. So sooner rather than later the head will be machined and the new head gasket and valve seals sitting in my room will be installed. The weber still hasn't been installed due to lack of access to my tools (They are at my mates place since my mum had to move to a house with miniature garage, he lives 20 - 30mins away...). I also want to change the rear indicators and tail lights to LED's, as well as delete the current front indicators and put LED indicators inside the park lights.

[luk3333]

Lots of work been going on. Had the head shaved, comp raised to 9.3 ~20thou off the 4k-c head. Started up perfectly with a bit better power throughout the range.

 

Finally got the 34ADM mounted to the manifold, but then couldn't get it to idle, because it was missing it's primary idle jet and screw! Can't win with this carb and being a noob.

 

Since I couldn't get the 34ADM to work I thought I'd muck around with the Aisan. I put a secondary jet from my spare into the primary on my working one. So going from a 100 to a 150. Holy crap, it hauls ass. Previously on the AFR we revving from 2 to about 5 grand (I'm guessing because I don't have a tach) what, it would bog a bit and lean out to ~16:1 then slowly get richer to 14:1 at about 5 grand where it runs out of puff. I can clearly feel the power come on as it richens up. With the 150 jet in the primary, It starts and 10:1 at 2grand and leans to about 13:1 at 5000rpm. The amount more torque is ridiculous and the power band is much smoother.

 

After doing some research on the Aisan, I think the reason it gets leaned out low in the rev range with the 100 primary jet is because the vacuum operated secondary doesn't open till higher revs, so by replacing the spring in the actuator with a lighter one it will open earlier. Also, by running a 115 or 125 jet, it could make it quite a potent but still efficient carburettor for street driving. Or even getting the secondary to open at 3000rpm with a bigger jet, efficient below 3000, ripper above. Obviously it still sucks at high revs, due to the tiny ~20mm venturis IIRC, so it has its limits in performance modification.

 

I have also been working on a Tach to work with the datalogger. I have basically got it working outside of the car but on my last attempt to install it I fried the ATmega328 processor. I thought the input voltage from the dizzy was 5v, this is what came up on my multimeter. After frying it, I realised that the multimeter was averaging the peak voltages as it changes between 0 and 12.

[altezzaclub]

After frying it, I realised that the multimeter was averaging the peak voltages as it changes between 0 and 12.

 

Ah- education is expensive! Definately something tricky to look for.

 

Now why would you want an old 18RC carb... we've probably got a couple lying around the farm right now.

 

Keep an eye on the chassis mounts for the rear sways, they are pretty wimpy in the KE70 and likely to crack.

Edited June 28, 2013 by altezzaclub

[luk3333]

Well I saw the RA40, and not knowing what carb they came with was hoping for an upgrade. The manifold mounts looked similar to a 4k Aisan one though. What are the 18RC(?) carbs like?

 

I'll get a look at those mounts next time i'm under there :)

[luk3333]

So after the head gasket change me and my friends drove a 300km round trip out to Lithgow, and then a bit further into the bush, did a bit of KE 4wd haha and then camped out. We then drove back to the Blue Mountains for a few nights and drove home with the only hitch being a very small coolant leak from the top hose which we fixed with a big ass cable tie and my exhaust welds breaking haha. Got it welded up again in town same day so I wasn't to disappointed. The bloke loved my welds lol. 600km + round trip cost me ~$100 in fuel, averaging about 10 - 11l/100km fuel economy which I was very surprised with.

 

Before we left I raised the front with the springs that came with my ae86 struts. They have a slightly larger radius and fewer coils and are softer than the chopper Ke70 ones. Much more comfortable and the bump steer is reduced but I can feel the back is much harder than the front now, oh well.

 

Mounts still look good on the rear sway bar :y:

 

Money comes through soon so some new shocks, bushes and brakes with be mounted soon, and hopefully I'll get that 34 running soon too. I'm pretty happy with the compression increase, with only .3 more CR it makes a noticeable difference. Now I want to get another head and shave it to 10:1 haha.

 

I also want to rewire the car with one central fuse and panel, boot mounted battery, move the ignition coil up to the fire wall and use an electric fuel pump. This is to make trouble shooting easier and neaten up the engine bay a bit.

 

Unfortunately my phone screen died the first day so no pictures :/ There is some really picturesque scenery out in the mountains, bloody cold!

[altezzaclub]

I find the battery down on the driver's engine mount is fine, unless you're really keen to get those Kg out of the front. Are you going to do the relay mod to the headlights and make them work like they should?? Might as well, while you're doing the wiring.

 

If you have stock wet struts on the front you can re-engineer the valves to give yourself the shock response you want, its not hard. Fill a hole or drill one bigger, pull a shim out... The only thing you'd lack would be gas pressure, but how often will you foam the oil inside unless you're rallying? Certainly an education.

[luk3333]

I was going to do the headlight mod, and change to brighter bulbs. I also wanted to get some small square fog lights to attach to the bumper. Currently they are dismal. I remember reading about what you did ages ages, was it that the current for the head lights runs through the switch rather than through a relay causing extra resistance and dimming the lights?

 

I was thinking about trying to mod the shocks before I left while changing springs but chickened out haha, I just needed the car to work for the trip although I don't think I could make it much worse... I was going to the ae86 struts and since I don't have the wet cartridges I was going to get some new closed ones but I still like the idea of being able to modify the shock rates without buying Bil$steins so I might hunt down some Ae86 wet legs anyway for modifying.

 

I basically want to remove all the wiring in the engine bay I can and I like the idea of a boot setup, I find the battery often gets rained on or covered in dust in the front, and when we were "4wd" - ing I think it got a bit wet from a puddle or two too.

[altezzaclub]

was it that the current for the head lights runs through the switch rather than through a relay causing extra resistance and dimming the lights?

That's right, both high and low are simultaneously powered at the bulb and the switch earths out one or the other. The relays make the stock lights and bulbs much better.

 

Pull an old strut apart and take a look at the footvalve inside. The RA40 had wet strusts to start with, probably AE86 diameter, I pulled one down to show Steve how it worked.

[luk3333]

Just moved house for the 3rd time year into my own place, very exciting :) I've gone from my own double garage with hoist, to a rental double bay where neighbors got pissed off about noise and claimed I was "running a mechanics work shop out of the garage" which is against the bi laws. Bullshit. Then to a house with a single garage that is so awkward get into and so small we gave up on getting anyones car in there and with Mums treadmill and lack of space my tools had to be kept at my mates house 30 minutes away and the cars parked on the street. Now I've moved out of home into my own little apartment with my girlfriend, no garage but a large parking area and my tools at hand so I'm very happy. Just got a new job as a pizza delivery driver (lol) so the Corolla is going to have to be on the road 24/7, it'll be interesting to see how that goes...

 

Now.

I have decided I'm going SW20 Excel G's and ordering them tomorrow, as well as QFM brake pads, DBA rotors, Urethane bushes and braided brake lines tomorrow so I can get my suspension sorted. Those POS LCAs I'm going to redo so they are stronger and look more standard. I am very aware right now the car won't pass rego inspection in 6 months, so I'm trying to start getting the car more roadworthy now to save headache come February.

 

Car was having trouble starting, narrowed it down to an ignition problem. Replaced spark plugs which were pretty tired and replaced point and set the gap to .5mm. One of these fixed the problem up nicely, also set the timing to 15deg Adv from 12deg previous. Car definitely felt perkier so something definitely worked.

 

Fresh plugs look sexy...

 

Also made up my own fuse/ relay box for when I rewire head lights, put in fogs and go electric fuel pump.

Sits neatly behind the DIN panel in the dash, out of sight.

 

Also made up a boot floor since the car never came with one and started making mounts for the battery holder in the boot. I'll be putting in some eye bolts to hold the battery down to once its carpeted. Black obviously.

 

Using a 4G cable for my battery positive, it's pretty chunky, reckon it should be ok?

[luk3333]

I'm being oddly up to date with the thread right now.

 

If only those spacers weren't 4x100... useless.

 

After making up the fuse box yesterday, I came across a bigger box at Jaycar that wasn't there 2 days ago!

 

Width wise it fits perfectly in the stock bracket (200mm wide)

 

The new fuse box can hold at least 6 relay outside, probably a couple inside if necessary, and about 14 fuses.

 

Fuse box sits behind that bit of interior, and I've got a kill switch now too. You can also see my dirty ass cricket ball shift knob.

[Skellington]

Nice work. I love the DIY stuff.