luk3333

I'lll try less advance then. I dialled the cam in.

Lex, I have a wideband, AFRs up around 5000RPM - 6000RPM are around 12.5. A little rich, but it runs that way for most of what and doesn't both it lower down. Could try leaning it out a bit. 5K's have the same stroke as a 4K so it should be good to rev to 8000RPM in theory. I woulnd't think any of the modifactions I've made would cause power to plateau around ~5000. I would think too much advance would lead to a small power drop off the pinging and I'm not getting pinging.

So you run base 10* and then +35 by 3000RPM? so a static 45* after 3000RPM. That kind of leads me to my second question. How should the advance curve be defined? I understand the parameters that affect it (RPM, Cylinder filling, AFRs...) and what I want to achieve by advancing it, but how much, when and what rate? I would have assumed a curve like this would roughly characterise a curve for advance vs RPM for a specific throttle position. Which correlates with what you said, sharp early rise, then eases off, but how do you know where it should ease off at? I've been working on a side project which is a programmable ignition module using an arduino for the math, mosfet (solid state relay) to trigger the coil and a current sensor hooked up to the points as the trigger. My plan was to program an advance curve comprised of a steep early section up to 4000RPM (+8 Degrees/ 1000RPM) and then a flatter section (+2 Degrees/1000RPM) from there on. Does that sound like a reasonable base curve or should actually plateau?

I've got a over-bored 5K, 280/285 cam, 40mm Mikuni sidedrafts, compression, headers etc. The power picks up properly at about 4000RPM (I think it should start earlier, but the 39mm chokes may be causing the air to stall) but then plateaus pretty quickly after 5000RPM. I'm still running the stock dizzy and mechanical points with the mechanical advance and no vac advance with about 18 degrees static advance. With this cam I'd expect a decent power band out to at least 7000RPM. I'm about to build a new head to take advantage of the cams power band, but would like to sort this power-dropping off issue before I finish and install it otherwise there is no point. One of my friends with a similarly built Datsun motor also running mechanical advance has the same issue. Does anyone have any opinions on what the issue is? My hypothesis is that the mechanical dizzy stops tipping in advance around 3500RPM and by the time it gets to 5000RPM its begging for more.

Having done a manual swap on a K power ke70, it was a very good bang for buck performance mod. Would 100% recommend. Also, if you want to save money get a 4 speed, same ratios just minus 5th.

If you want to have some quick and cheap fun and want to get your hands dirty, stick with cam/carb/compression on a 4k. If you want something faster with an old school feel get a carbed T or A engine. Cam - $120 (Get something with a relistic powerband, 2000- 5000RPM, or you'll have a bad time) Shave head - $80 (Learn to calculate how much to remove and what compression ratio you want and the difference between dynamic and staticCR) 32/36 - ~$100 setup (It will work fine, maybe not optimal but for a 4k you won't care, put effort into jetting and getting rid of vac leaks) Timing advance is free ;) Exhaust will be the most expesive part, so put a less restrictive muffler on or replace it with a resonator depending on your taste and call it good. Pick up a second hand set of extractors if you really want, but the standard aftermarket ones are crush bend and unequal anyway. You'll get more out of the car if you spend money on tyres and suspension setup. Just get the engine running nice and hit up a few twisty roads and enjoy the thing.

Those GRP4 struts look the way to go... if I had money to fill them with Bilstein goodness. Now that you mention it I do remember seeing that weld on the bottom :/ I've got access to a lathe at uni so I could cut it flush with the casting and then turn out the inside... Otherwise I'll just have to leave a bit of tube at the bottom and accept there'll be a weld on the tube somewhere. Only reason I'm bothering with the Ae86 gear is because I've already got it, but you think converting to RA40 struts and arms would be easier?

I've got a set of Ae86 struts that have been converted into coilovers but I'm not happy with the quality. Essentially I want to replace the cut and welded stock tube with a new not-welded tube with a nice new gland nut thread cut in the top (threads damaged currently). The strut tube doesn't appear to be welded to spindle casting, so I was wondering if anyone had tried removing it with a bit of heat. I'd like to know before I go ripping the suspension out of my car preferably. Thanks

Use 2k to buy your gf her own car, use other 2k to have someone put a manual and 5K in ;) everyones happy

Best laid plans of mice and men... It's not the first track day of the year but I have booked a spot for Wakefield on the 22nd of March! Very keen for it, it has really sparked some motivation again. I've removed most of the sound deadening, just need to do under the drivers seat/ foot well then its paint time. I'm thinking of not worrying about the carpet for now, I thought it would be noisier but its really not that much different. I've bought new rear shoes and slaves as my handbrake wasn't gripping (shoes lubed up by brake fluid), and I have a slow brake fluid leak so I'm guessing the slaves are done. (Thought it was just the master cylinder, but kept losing brake fluid after I replaced it). I've got a set of Celica tie rods and rack ends now, just sorting out Lca's and then I can have not dodgy camber! I remember how much of a difference it made when I went from stock to longer, can't wait to have that extra front end grip back. I decided the Quad carbs were going to be too much effort considering my limited fabrication skills and lack of garage so I invested in a pair of Solexs. God they sound so good! I love how I can cruise around relatively quiet then go full throttle and make the most guttural noise. After a few minor repairs including setting up the linkages for better leverage, resealing one leaky accelerator pump, reattaching a accelerator pump linkage, buying a set of booster venturis from Wolf Creek Racing and some smaller fuel jets I had it running fairly well. Even with a poor tune I could really feel the car pull much harder and much further through the rev range than the stock carburettor. Running an aluminium air box I folded up with a K&N panel filter, but I've since ordered some trumpets and socks. I was looking at the T3 ones but found a set of 4 on ebay that were $100 cheaper so i went with them. I figured I'd rather spend the $100 elsewhere... Currently it runs rich on the slow circuit, typically about 12:1 (It's hurting my wallet :( fuel is too expensive!) so I've ordered a pair of 57.5 and 55 jets to replace the 60 slow jet it currently has. Midrange is good, but I can't open full throttle till over ~4000rpm or it leans out to 15:1, so I'm replacing the 210 air with a 150. This may be too small but it is a lot easier to get them drilled larger than buy a smaller one or solder and redrill. The current 120 fuel seems OK. It originally had a 140 and was very rich everywhere other than idle. I think the midrange issue could also be because I haven't got the accelerator pump on full throw because it make the Afr's drop right off, I've bought a 30 jet to replace the 40 and hopefully it helps. My jet decisions have been made based on research from other forums (mostly datsun), blown 5k's advice and by using small pieces of copper wire to effectively reduce the jet size. Sounds weird but its a lot quicker and cheaper than getting them redrilled or buying more. One other thing I'd like to change would be the venturis from 39mm to a 37 or 36 for a stronger vac signal from the small engine, but wolf creek doesn't sell them and I haven't really looked around otherwise. I've started working on the data logger again, but I'm going to make a separate thread for it.

How's the vid going?

Can you remember your cam specs? I'd be interested to pop the details into the calculator if you don't mind :)

Also I was just playing around with the boost setting on the calculator, if you put 6psi with 9.5CR and inlet closing at 20ATDC you get a DCR of 13, but people use those sort of setting and don't get detonation. Is it harder to detonate an air fuel mixture under pressure?

Yea, they use MON and we use RON or something? Pretty sure its means is rated under different test conditions. Punching 11.2CR and the other stats for my engine in and it gives a DCR of 8.72 which isn't that far above their apparent limit of 8.5 and if our 98 is of higher octane than their best pump fuel it would probably be ok.

My 5k with 20thou over shallow dish pistons and shaved 4k head. DCR of 8.22 SCR of 10.5 280/286 cam inlet closing 66 ABDC standard rods Looking on the hot rod forum in america they say a DCR of 7.75-8.5 is suitable for pump gas. It seems like only the hot rod guys are really interested in DCR for what ever reason. There is a DCR calculator here. What DCR's are everyone else running in their modified K engines?

Isn't Toyota teaming up with BMW to collaborate, possibly on this? Using BMW's knowledge in suspension and ride and Toyota's development in hybrids I think it said.

Yep, I've done it :) just make sure they have the same number of studs, but I think its 3k's are different and 4 and 5k's are the same.

Maybe its different on a 3k, but on a 4/5k the timing cover has an inner lip and I tried and couldn't get the cover back on with out lowering the sump. My cover had bolts going into the cover so the studs weren't a problem.

The Ke70 has been back on the road now for a few months now. Been driven up and down the freeway multiple times, through the Natio and up to Port Stephens and back. On the first drive it appeared slower than before the engine swap! After getting the cam and ignition timing right and the vacuum advance its heaps better. It's now pulling pretty good from about 3.5/4 to 5k rpm but just running out of puff, most likely due to still running the stock carburettor. Thats where these come in, now to get cracking making up a manifold. I'm thinking red Unilfilters socks or making up a sheet metal box with a K&N panel filter on top for daily driving. Once the carbs done, the next engine upgrade will have to be valve spring as I'm still running the stock ones. Below a few photos of the evolution and engine bay. I picked up a pair of 14x7 -0 SSR MKIII's with new 14/60/175 Nexen Tires, I would have preferred a 14/65/185 for a beefier look but these tyres came with the rims almost brand new. Now looking for some longer control arms to give it some camber and fill the guards. Also got some lower chrome fender mirrors for a more subtle look and some heat wrap for the exhaust. With the brake issue I ended up buying a full set of JDM carriers and calipers, and also a new brake master. I'm very happy with the brakes especially coupled with the new tires, only lament would be that the pads can squeal and squeak a bit and create a lot of dust. The to-do list is now: Fabricate the manifold and accesories for the bike carburettors Remove sound deadening and put in black molded carpet Gauges/ Data logger 14x8 -0/10 SSR MKI's on rear Longer Lca's/Celica Tie rods/New ball joints and bushes Once I'm off my P's in September if I still have the Ke I'll be getting some decent buckets, 4 point harness and deleting the rear seats and getting it mod plated so I don't have to worry about defects. I've also decided I'm going to do the first Circuit Club track day next year and see how the car goes, obviously it'll be the slowest there but whatever. If all goes well I'll be looking to do some Motorkhana.

Ended up pulling out and replacing all but 6 studs (for gasket alignment) with 8.8 grade bolts and stainless spring washers from Auto1, put a new gasket with a bit of rtv black on either side. Also redid the cam cover sealant timing seal for peace of mind. Did the sump up as Corolla Nut said, watching for the gasket to squish out just a metric tad or 2.43 imperial tads ;) No more leaks now :) For anyone searching this thread for information, the thread is M6, you need about a 15mm long bolt and at least 22 bolts/nuts/studs/washers (There is another sump gasket for the 4kc Auto1 sells with 18 bolts so I'm guessing there are two sump bolt patterns)

I did try my Ke's battery in it, but when I put the leads on it sparked and I was worried it was shorting the battery so I didn't get to turn the key.

Not strictly Toyota but looking for some advice. My girlfriend has a Mazda 121 bubble 1.3l that is having some trouble. It started out stuttering and not idling correctly and got worse until it would drop out unless accelerating. We pulled a code for an air flow sensor which we replaced and the code went away but the problem persisted and continued getting worse until now the car won't start. Speaking to an auto electrician he thinks it is likely the ecu but he was pretty vague. I noticed that there is only a few ohms resistance between the + and - leads with the battery disconnected and keys out and the battery is now dead also. Any one have any suggestions?

Really? wow I had it all wrong. I thought it was higher tensile than mild steel. Thanks for clearing that up

Interesting, I would have thought since stainless has a higher tensile strength it would have been stronger, but maybe it is more brittle too. Unfortunately, the engine is back in the car but I can see I'm going to have to pull it out to do this, dropping the sub frame is harder I've found. I was using a 1/4" inch wrench probably 150mm long handle and I didn't do it very tight at all, but I know it was more than 4nm. I know firm hand tight is approximately the lowest measure on my torque wrench. Thanks for the ideas to get it out, I was a bit stumped.

Also what makes stainless bad for bolts?