luk3333

The phone idea would kill a few birds with a single stone. G sensing, data storage and video. I imagine if you wanted to get particularly involved you could write an app to send the data to another android and then you have telemetry too.

Could someone clarify what the stock CR of a 4K is with reference to a reliable source? http://www.kp61.net/forum/showthread.php?t=475 here it says its 9.1 for a 4kc, 9.4 for a 4ke. I have done my calculations, but using 9.1 as the CR which seems to be the genreal consensus for a 4kc. Also Keith did you include the piston volume in your calculations? I worked it out to -1 cc, if 9.1 is the correct compression ratio. My head cc measured 33ml using a syringe and brake fluid

You can buy these: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ATMEGA328P-PU-with-Arduino-BOOTLOADER-Socket-16MHz-crystal-Kit-/320949081653?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4aba0e5635&_uhb=1 and make your own arduino for half the price. Also you could get more than 4 Analog inputs on each arduino by using the PWM digital inputs. They have 256 marks of resolution (not sure of the correct term) compared to the 1024 that the analog inputs have, but 256 would be more than enough for monitoring a few cm's of travel such as a pedal. I'm not sure what you had planned for video capture and storage but you could "hack" the camcorder so that the arduino starts filming when you start the datalogger and stops when you stop it. Then you graph your travel against time and and use the graph as a reference as you watch the video. eg, see the car go over a large bump at 1.26, refer to graph at 1.26 to see how the suspension behaves.

Pistons can be bought new from precisionintl.com . I believe it has been done successfully several times but there is concern about cylinder wall thickness as the 4k casts apparently don't have the bores centered as well as the 5k casts. It is suggested you have the block tested by the machinist to ensure you have enough wall thickness.

+1

What length and thread were the studs you uses to replace exhaust bolts? Was going to investigate myself but you might be able to save me some time

Fitting longer LCA's will give you camber but it will also push the wheel out further. You'd be better off getting camber tops to pull the top of the strut in.

Thanks, I'll get you a photo. I'm running 14 x 6.5 mags +12. This is a good size I think, tyres are cheap, get a good width and suits the car. They are stock struts, as in they haven't been shortened or had sleeves welded on. I know that SW20 shocks fit and a few others, but it's going to take some searching I can tell already. You assume right about short bump travel, it is very short. I just avoid pot holes very actively. As for springs, I was hoping to continue to use the stock ones as they are quite stiff but manageable. I will measure the spring stiffness of them this weekend perhaps. I liked the idea of raising the perch to bring the front up a bit (cheap cheap cheap) and get the ride height right. Otherwise I'll invest in some used aftermarket springs, I don't see the difference between a used spring and a new one and can't justify the price difference. I kind of wanted to avoid spending $900 on springs and shocks, because for $200 more I'll get camber tops, height adjustment, damper adjustment and a warranty for whatever it's worth. The rear shocks are clean with no leaks, and rear ride height is were I like it, the tyre is almost tucking but not quite. The top of the arch is level with the top of the tyre. The front is where the real issue is with bump steer, poor dampening, too low. Tyres would make sense as mine are pretty shot. Although I don't experience any real bad understeer with them, I think that's more because I'm not confident in my car enough to push them. Also, I've been reading that link and their is some really good stuff! Gold mine! Thanks for the insight guys :y:

A broken engine mount should have been picked up in the mechanical inspection

I think if you want near 4AGE power with an F head and carburettor, you will need high compression. 4AGE's have the power they have because they have a good flowing head, and rev up nicely due to their bore to stroke ratio, and obviously have EFI. Your 4AFC's bore and stroke is the same, the head is different and so is the fuel system. So you will have to either do head work to increase flow on the F head or swap to a G head. A G head would have to be cheaper and be better value. You want to keep the carburettor, but you may have to swap to side draughts for the extra flow at high rpm. The higher rpm the engine spins, the faster the gases moves, the more important flow becomes. If you take your 4AFC and put a G head on, a set of properly tuned side draughts, and bump up the compression a bit by shaving the head you should have a similar power output. I would think a mild 4- 6k or perhaps a 5 -7k optimum cam would be more useful to you. Duration affects where the power is, lift affects the flow characteristics(more lift, more flow), and the spring rates affect how high you can rev your engine. A big cam will help, but if the cam is optimal for 8K onwards then it will drive like crap at low rpm. How often are you in the 8k and beyond rev range? You shouldn't need to go past the factory redline to make 4AGE equivalent power.

Thanks, you always give great feedback. I hadn't thought of modifying the stock inserts. What oil do you use? 520mm is quite low, its the height the car was when I bought it. I think it is too low as I get a fair bit of scrubbing even though i've flared the guard a fair bit. Raising the perch is another idea I hadn't thought of. I wouldn't be changing the height very often, I thought that if I was defected for being too low though it would be handy to be able to just raise the car again. Do you get ae86 wet shock cartridges new? I thought that most cartridges now are dry. Otherwise i suppose a used stock pair must be pretty cheap. Unfortunately I threw out the old ones assuming they were rubbish :bash: On the front I am have the stock sway bar, on the rear I am running dual sway bars and it made a very noticeable difference. I think if i remember correctly, you said stiffness is proportional to cross sectional area. The stock sway bars are 13mm diameter. So 2 13mm swaybars are relatively equivalent to an 18mm sway bar, which is a 51% increase in stiffness over stock. I am actually pretty happy with the body roll compared to other issues such as bump steer and dampening. Also, 510 may have been from wheel center to highest arch point now that I think about it. I'll check tomorrow. Having a quick look at that link, there is a great wealth of information I will look through tomorrow, thanks.

I want to go to orange just to look around your wreckers. Is that a datto behind the celica?

So I'm in a bit of a dilema. My suspension sucks big floppy doodles. Currently it has stock ke70 suspension setup, chopped springs in the front and rear (probably sitting a bit below illegal height, but I don't scape on anything, 520mm from ground to highest point on front wheel arch), I think stock shocks in the front because they are the worst, the rears may have been replaced as they look fairly new. I have an adjustable rear panhard rod too which i haven't chucked in yet. I'll be getting my tax back and some uni scholarship so about 1500 i think soon and I'd like to sort out the poor handling. I already have ae86 front gear that needs to be recondition. I have struts, brakes, calibers, p/s arms etc. My first option is coil overs and that exhausts all my funds straight away pretty much, put on the ae86 gear and be done. I'd also have to buy new pads for the brakes and brake lines, clean up the old rotors. My second option is leave the back suspension as is, put new shocks ( cheap ones) in the ae86 gear, buy new brakes pads, rotors, lines, and change all the bushings, RCA adjusters and hopefully come out with some change. To sum it up, I can invest a large sums in shocks, springs, and some camber plates and get the bonus of height adjustment or I can spend a moderate amount and get it riding right. Either way I'll get a brake upgrade. So what are your thoughts? It is a daily, I don't get this sort of money often, but I'm not planning on selling this car until I'm at least off my p's (I love my KE even though it's slow and squishy haha)

I have the same headers as you.. :/ that doesn't bode well. Do you think having the heat wrap on there accelerated the headers failing?

I researched what requires a mod plate when I was upgrading the engine in my Mazda last year. For the manual swap you will need a blue slip, but as long as that manual box was released with that chassis and you don't cut/weld/modify anything structural then you shouldn't need a mod plate. I wouldn't think cops would pick up on it being the wrong transmission but I think if you have an accident and the insurance company finds out they might not cover you properly... edit: I'm in nsw

Could you not wire a capacitor in?

You can get some spacers from technotoytuning.com i think

So not a whole lot has been happening with the 'rolla lately. Since the sway bar upgrade which has been working beautifully there have been a few minor modifications. - Front guards bare metalled and clear coated. I really like this, the texture of it adds another dimension. - Repainted yellowed door. Colour wasn't exact but its not yellow so hey. - Put floor mats in, just black cheapies, but it adds a level of refinement. - Drove around with so much toe I wore out agood set of tires in 4 weeks. I am a tad annoyed at myself for this... -Chucked some decals on the rear window - GK Tech steering wheel installed and boss. This wheel is awesome and fairly cheap. Since installing it, I have actually enjoyed driving the car so much more. and that is about all the attention the KE has received. I also picked up a postie bike which I've stripped and I'm repainting black and a army sort of green. Green frame, black or chrome everything else. The bike is a '94. The engine was seized and when I opened it up it was full of mud and rust so that went in the bin. It's being replaced by a brand new 125cc chinese motor. I basically want to build this bike as something a bit different to your average postie and as a cheap run around. It will have flat handle bars, low profile LED indicators and brake lights, and new seat design and hopefully a new fuel tank up front rather than under the seat. I have also been teaching myself some programming and electronics. I'm currently building a datalogger which will be able to display pressure and temperatures via 4 digit displays like my AFR, with configurable warning lights. It will also be able to interface with a laptop and java application via usb for data logging direct to computer and for configuring the warning lights. Once its built I want to start including other variables for data logging such as rpm, AFR, and TPS. Me and my friends also built a 125cc go kart which is awesome fun. And i found an RA40 Celica hiding in my local wreckers. Still has its 18RG but no carb :( And a overrated looking cressida was sitting there too. Anyway back to the KE. It has developed a bit of a heat gasket issue and has a bit of a drinking problem. So sooner rather than later the head will be machined and the new head gasket and valve seals sitting in my room will be installed. The weber still hasn't been installed due to lack of access to my tools (They are at my mates place since my mum had to move to a house with miniature garage, he lives 20 - 30mins away...). I also want to change the rear indicators and tail lights to LED's, as well as delete the current front indicators and put LED indicators inside the park lights.

Did you calculate what your new CR was Altezza? I might as well calculate it, do it once do it right, right?

Wondering if anyone has any suggestions for how much to take off the head to boost comp up a bit. Whats the limit for piston to valve clearances and will lowering the head affect timing chain tension and the rocker arm position very much? Hoping to get the comp up to around 9.5. This is using a 4k-c head. Otherwise I'll get a burette and dial gauge and work it out. Cheers :)

So its not quite fixed, its better since i unstuck the arm that controls the pump, but if i put my foot down suddenly at any rpm i can see it go up to 16 on the afr then slowly drop back to 13 or 12 and i can feel the power come on. It's not that bad when highway or town driving, but it kills spirited wet driving. I can see the pump diaphram squirting in extra fuel when you apply throttle and i can't detect this problem when idling but when in any gear if I boot it, it just leans out, accelerates slow then picks back up as it richens up again

The price is very right :P I thought that blurb came off as as "we get our pistons from china like everyone else and they're almost as good as brands that don't come from china." The livery bit just makes me think of a piston wrapped in ken blocks decals.. That is also a very good question. Can't afford forgies and wouldn't buy if i could.

Sounds good enough for me then :P

Carried a 4k across the garage, and i only weigh 60kg haha. Then stripped it down to bare block in 2 hours first time, such simple engines :P

You also need knuckles, arms, rack, brakes etc, basically an entire front suspension setup