luk3333

That's way too complicated, where on earth would you get one of those?

Yea, I would love it if the fronts fit like the back, but these were bargain so I'm not complaining haha

Sure thing :) Central coast is in between Sydney and Newcastle about 4 hrs south of Coffs, I'll check out postage tomorrow

I finished the boot mount, using two eye bolt and a occy strap I also mounted up the new wheels. I'm not so sure on the fronts, the 13's with 65 sidewall don't fit as well as the 14's with a 65. They also need at least a 20mm spacer for decent fitment. The rear shank nuts needed three washers to stop them bottoming out on the drum The $30 GT40 off ebay also arrived. I gave it a quick clean, repainted the bracket, and installed it without the ballast resistor after checking it wasn't a GT40r. It is wired in using spade connectors. I've ordered front LCA, rear shock top and bottom and sway bar bushings all round, SW20 Excel G's, Slotted and drilled rotors, HPX QFM pads, and HEL brake lines too, so I'm very keen for the mail man :P And lastly I think I've found out why my diff is making a bad noises... The oil has ended up on the inside of my rim... New seal time I think

Thanks :) Yesterday I relocated the ignition coil to the fire wall in an attempt to clean up the engine bay a bit and remove clutter. It was very easy, I just removed the quarter panel, stripped back the tape to where I wanted, thread the wiring through an existing hole, taped it back up and bolted it to the firewall using an existing hole. I just need to shorten the ignition cable, and its done. I've also ordered a Bosch GT40 coil which is in the post. I found these bargains on ebay Centerlines, front are 13x6 +20(I think) rear are 14x7 +0. The rear make me drool... The fronts I haven't tried yet. A good clean and polish and they will look tasty as. Also came with these which are for sale if anyone wants them, or the go to the tip as I don't have space for them.

Hey, I saw this on Youtube, this is you right?

What are the benefits of putting the ke30 centre into a ke70?

Steve, wouldn't you be better using a momentary switch to start the car so you can let go and it stops cranking?

I read through the Shinigami (sp?) thread, that is a very very meticulous build, I hope your motivation comes back :) Your Ke30 looks so clean too, very jealous.

I'm being oddly up to date with the thread right now. If only those spacers weren't 4x100... useless. After making up the fuse box yesterday, I came across a bigger box at Jaycar that wasn't there 2 days ago! Width wise it fits perfectly in the stock bracket (200mm wide) The new fuse box can hold at least 6 relay outside, probably a couple inside if necessary, and about 14 fuses. Fuse box sits behind that bit of interior, and I've got a kill switch now too. You can also see my dirty ass cricket ball shift knob.

Just moved house for the 3rd time year into my own place, very exciting :) I've gone from my own double garage with hoist, to a rental double bay where neighbors got pissed off about noise and claimed I was "running a mechanics work shop out of the garage" which is against the bi laws. Bullshit. Then to a house with a single garage that is so awkward get into and so small we gave up on getting anyones car in there and with Mums treadmill and lack of space my tools had to be kept at my mates house 30 minutes away and the cars parked on the street. Now I've moved out of home into my own little apartment with my girlfriend, no garage but a large parking area and my tools at hand so I'm very happy. Just got a new job as a pizza delivery driver (lol) so the Corolla is going to have to be on the road 24/7, it'll be interesting to see how that goes... Now. I have decided I'm going SW20 Excel G's and ordering them tomorrow, as well as QFM brake pads, DBA rotors, Urethane bushes and braided brake lines tomorrow so I can get my suspension sorted. Those POS LCAs I'm going to redo so they are stronger and look more standard. I am very aware right now the car won't pass rego inspection in 6 months, so I'm trying to start getting the car more roadworthy now to save headache come February. Car was having trouble starting, narrowed it down to an ignition problem. Replaced spark plugs which were pretty tired and replaced point and set the gap to .5mm. One of these fixed the problem up nicely, also set the timing to 15deg Adv from 12deg previous. Car definitely felt perkier so something definitely worked. Fresh plugs look sexy... Also made up my own fuse/ relay box for when I rewire head lights, put in fogs and go electric fuel pump. Sits neatly behind the DIN panel in the dash, out of sight. Also made up a boot floor since the car never came with one and started making mounts for the battery holder in the boot. I'll be putting in some eye bolts to hold the battery down to once its carpeted. Black obviously. Using a 4G cable for my battery positive, it's pretty chunky, reckon it should be ok?

I've just moved to the Hornsby area and was wondering if any of the locals would like to meet up and maybe show me a good cruise route or spot this weekend? I'm free anytime :)

Any idea's where I should look for 5k that isn't a wreckers? I've checked out ae86dc, clubk, gumtree and ebay already. There is no way I'll get one from a wreckers for under $300..

Thats what I was thinking, I don't see stock 5k's for under $300 come up very often on here though

I got quoted $70 per cylinder to bore a 4k out to a 5k This sounds fairly reasonable to me, just wondering what other peoples experiences are.

Haha this is genius, I wondered what was up with people using overrated oddly

I was going to do the headlight mod, and change to brighter bulbs. I also wanted to get some small square fog lights to attach to the bumper. Currently they are dismal. I remember reading about what you did ages ages, was it that the current for the head lights runs through the switch rather than through a relay causing extra resistance and dimming the lights? I was thinking about trying to mod the shocks before I left while changing springs but chickened out haha, I just needed the car to work for the trip although I don't think I could make it much worse... I was going to the ae86 struts and since I don't have the wet cartridges I was going to get some new closed ones but I still like the idea of being able to modify the shock rates without buying Bil$steins so I might hunt down some Ae86 wet legs anyway for modifying. I basically want to remove all the wiring in the engine bay I can and I like the idea of a boot setup, I find the battery often gets rained on or covered in dust in the front, and when we were "4wd" - ing I think it got a bit wet from a puddle or two too.

So after the head gasket change me and my friends drove a 300km round trip out to Lithgow, and then a bit further into the bush, did a bit of KE 4wd haha and then camped out. We then drove back to the Blue Mountains for a few nights and drove home with the only hitch being a very small coolant leak from the top hose which we fixed with a big ass cable tie and my exhaust welds breaking haha. Got it welded up again in town same day so I wasn't to disappointed. The bloke loved my welds lol. 600km + round trip cost me ~$100 in fuel, averaging about 10 - 11l/100km fuel economy which I was very surprised with. Before we left I raised the front with the springs that came with my ae86 struts. They have a slightly larger radius and fewer coils and are softer than the chopper Ke70 ones. Much more comfortable and the bump steer is reduced but I can feel the back is much harder than the front now, oh well. Mounts still look good on the rear sway bar :y: Money comes through soon so some new shocks, bushes and brakes with be mounted soon, and hopefully I'll get that 34 running soon too. I'm pretty happy with the compression increase, with only .3 more CR it makes a noticeable difference. Now I want to get another head and shave it to 10:1 haha. I also want to rewire the car with one central fuse and panel, boot mounted battery, move the ignition coil up to the fire wall and use an electric fuel pump. This is to make trouble shooting easier and neaten up the engine bay a bit. Unfortunately my phone screen died the first day so no pictures :/ There is some really picturesque scenery out in the mountains, bloody cold!

Yeah, its drivable, I just prefer to know it's working right. I pulled the jets out to blow them out, and basically just had a look at all the parts and tried to get some idea of it worked. I'm not sure exactly which is the idle jet still. A video I watched referred to a long thin one next to the accelerator pump as a "slow jet", is that it?

I see this is a common thread after a quick elgoog search, and I'm at my wits end. What happened was it was idling fine, then I was mucking around with the carb and when I assembled it all again it won't idle unless the choke is on. It starts fine, but then gets leaner and leaner until it stalls. I have an AFR gauge, so i know it is leaning out and not flooding. I have: - Checked timing - swapped to spare and visually inspected both fuel pumps - checked flow, cranked for 10 seconds about 20ml or less came out, not sure if this is usual, it seems pretty low. When idling, on and off choke, plenty of fuel comes out the return hose. - Tried two different carburettors, one I have fiddled with, another I purchased thinking my fiddling had done the damage. The second one appears to have never been opened or cleaned but it apparently idled before it was removed. Both stock Aisans. - Blow through rubber lines with air compressor - Tried bypassing fuel filter - Twiddling idle speed and mixture; has no effect once it starts leaning out. - Leaning on the intake doesn't affect revs, this is how I found a dodgy intake gasket once before. - No vac leaks, I have checked with aerosol, and swapped all the vac hose with spare and tried plugging them up. No effect. - Fuel solenoid definitely works, if I unplug it the car completely stalls. I can also hear it tick open/shut. - Looking down the carb, I can see fuel coming out the primary throat normally when revved. Accelerator pump also works normally. - On the carburettor I fiddled with, I went back and blew out all the jets I could find, and checked the needle and float weren't stuck. With half choke on it idles at ~14.7 but at quite high revs. I would have thought it would be richer. Full choke; rich and screaming. If anyone has a diagram showing the idle jet, so I can make sure I've got it clear that would be helpful. It appears to be a problem with the idle circuit I think. I suspected the bowl not filling fast enough on idle, but it barely uses any fuel on idle and it can be brought back to life with a rev/ opening primary, which wouldn't make sense if the bowl was empty. Someone please help me solve my mystery!

Well I saw the RA40, and not knowing what carb they came with was hoping for an upgrade. The manifold mounts looked similar to a 4k Aisan one though. What are the 18RC(?) carbs like? I'll get a look at those mounts next time i'm under there :)

Lots of work been going on. Had the head shaved, comp raised to 9.3 ~20thou off the 4k-c head. Started up perfectly with a bit better power throughout the range. Finally got the 34ADM mounted to the manifold, but then couldn't get it to idle, because it was missing it's primary idle jet and screw! Can't win with this carb and being a noob. Since I couldn't get the 34ADM to work I thought I'd muck around with the Aisan. I put a secondary jet from my spare into the primary on my working one. So going from a 100 to a 150. Holy crap, it hauls ass. Previously on the AFR we revving from 2 to about 5 grand (I'm guessing because I don't have a tach) what, it would bog a bit and lean out to ~16:1 then slowly get richer to 14:1 at about 5 grand where it runs out of puff. I can clearly feel the power come on as it richens up. With the 150 jet in the primary, It starts and 10:1 at 2grand and leans to about 13:1 at 5000rpm. The amount more torque is ridiculous and the power band is much smoother. After doing some research on the Aisan, I think the reason it gets leaned out low in the rev range with the 100 primary jet is because the vacuum operated secondary doesn't open till higher revs, so by replacing the spring in the actuator with a lighter one it will open earlier. Also, by running a 115 or 125 jet, it could make it quite a potent but still efficient carburettor for street driving. Or even getting the secondary to open at 3000rpm with a bigger jet, efficient below 3000, ripper above. Obviously it still sucks at high revs, due to the tiny ~20mm venturis IIRC, so it has its limits in performance modification. I have also been working on a Tach to work with the datalogger. I have basically got it working outside of the car but on my last attempt to install it I fried the ATmega328 processor. I thought the input voltage from the dizzy was 5v, this is what came up on my multimeter. After frying it, I realised that the multimeter was averaging the peak voltages as it changes between 0 and 12.

I did some research and I realised that it was all normal. I swapped to my spare dizzy and then it went fine so I'm guessing the ignition module was bust.

Dizzy and single coil, ke70, 4k-c

My car won't start now after mucking with the ignition system while testing my tacho I'm making using a micro controller. When I touch the lead from the dizzy to the coil I get sparks. The lead measures 0v between it and ground and the pole it attaches to measures a constant 12v between it and ground. Could anyone give me any pointers as to what to check for a broken coil or ignition module? I haven't got much experience with this type of ignition system unfortunately. Thanks