luk3333

Ok thanks, have you got those studs out before?

I've got a leaky sump gasket, but when I last did up the bolts I accidentally took the thread off the inside of 4 or 5 of the nuts, and now I can't get the nuts off to remove the sump. It was really strange, they were barely tight and they just went loose and then just kept going round and round, almost like the thread was made of aluminium. Has anyone had this issue before? Can I replace the nuts and studs with something stronger that won't strip so easily?

Hey, after reading your monstrosity i thought you might be interested to know I have a 5K head, with correct rockers and pushrods for a hydro 5k and a reground hydro cam I'm looking to get rid of. If you are interested in buying the gear PM me :)

So engine is 90% complete, final spec list: - Crow cams 740 cam, 280/286 .400" lift - Dual Timing chain, rollmaster cam gear - Holden 308 Mechanical lifters - Datsun A12 pushrods - 4K head, polished runners (to be done still) - 81mm shallow dish/ O dish pistons (10.2 CR) - New bearings, seals and gaskets Just need to finish the head work and bolt the head on, set the valve lash and its done. I have bought a set of CBR900 carbs and made up a CAD drawing to get the flange for the new manifold laser cut, but I've put getting the manifold build on the back burner until the car is back on the road. On the suspension front: Rian, you're right, they are ADM calipers, and the brake pad carriers are JDM :wtf: ... So now i have JDM pads that I've had 3mm machined off the outside and now have to sand done the inner pad about .5mm to get them to fit. Also I now have A1RM pads as the JDM HPX pads were on back order for 6 weeks... Still need to install all the gear as I've been busy trying to get through my uni work and clear the defects. Pretty much all the defects are cleared. Just need to replaced the rear left axle seal. The fuse box has been relocated to passenger foot well next to the door. Thats pretty much it.

Thanks guys :) Good stuff

Sorry to bring up such an old thread, but do you have a higher resolution version of the wiring diagram Altezza?

Maybe its because of the heat wrap at the top and the heat shields, and then when the four runners come together there is very little space for heat to dissipate?

Well, I didn't really want to fork out for ARP head studs but I was looking for any options. How much is a set of ARP studs? Do you think used standard head bolts would be safe for a 10.5-> 11 CR 5k? Edit: Thanks for the help :)

Wouldn't they have just ordered them through toyota though?

Half way through building up my 5K and I'm trying to source some new headbolts but having a fair bit of difficulty. I went to Toyota and there are apparently only 7 new bolts in Australia, so I didn't even ask for a price. ARP doesn't list anything. I went to my local engine shop and they called up 4 or 5 suppliers and none of them listed them. I've searched Precision intl and ebay, no luck. I then went to an engineering fastening shop and the best he could do was the same M10x1.25, 100mm long but Grade 8.8 and without the 10mm shoulder at the top for $13 a bolt. $130 for a set of bolts that I don't know have a high enough tensile strength seemed a bit expensive. When I swapped the head gasket on my 4K I rounded up a set of healthy looking bolts by mixing and matching from the engine in the car and a spare. Would my best option now be to just go pinch those ones out of the 4K? Also, Toyota said that a K motor has 9 head bolts of one part number and 1 bolt has a different part number but they all looked the same to me...

I would have to say they thing you would notice the most improvement for the least $$/effort would be a weber carb followed by a cam. If it is auto, changing to a manual is also a really good power increase

Story time. Chapter 1: Suspension FINALLY arrived. 4 weeks. Not cool. Started assembling, first the Ajps spacer is too big. Cut that shiz down to length. Then the disc kept hitting part of the break mount so got the grinder out. Then the pads were the wrong fit. Turns out I have JDM callipers... Cool, so I didn't have to wait 4 weeks for special brake pads to run vented rotors, but now for the JDM pads they are sold out of HPX and I have to get A1RM's or wait 6 weeks. Guess which I chose, $$$$$$. More waiting. Chapter 2: Starting smoothing out the intake runners, deshrouding the valves and making everything nice. I found the solid lifter I have don't fit and I can't be ʞ©$ɟed findind a set that fit, getting the cam reground, lifters faced, rockers machined... So whatever cam is in there, is in there. $$ are tight so crank won't be lightened/balanced, pistons/rods will still be. Chapter 3: Kamei Lip arrived, looks the goods. Needs some fitment adjusting. Chapter 4: FINALLY GOT DEFECTED WHILE DOING PIZZA RUNS. list goes: Battery not secure Front tyres below marker oil leak (below fuel pump) Wires not secure Rear seats not fitted Something about the front seatbelts, they work and aren't torn and I can't read his scrawl so I'm not sure what's going on there Fog light (says front fog light, not sure what other fog lights there are) not secured properly, I'm guesing he is talking about my indicator, unless he knows about the fog lights I want to buy and that I wasn't going to secure them right. Over flow bottle not standard ( I told him the redbull can gave me 10 extra killowatts. He didn't laugh.) So I've got some fixing to do this weekend. LOL

Unlucky, but I think you are wise for letting this one go. No point rushing and just stuffing everything up, get it right then take out right next race ;)

This should be stickied I reckon, good simple how to

I got a GKtech wheel, heaps happy with it. Great feel, nice a rigid. Fair bit of dish though and quite small

Blue Ke70, with bare metal quarters and draglites :P you'll know it when you see it haha

No one keen?

Keen :)

Anyone interested in doing a run from Hornsby to Berowra Waters along Galston Rd this weekend?

What do you think of the RCA adjusters? They look pretty raw, steel or aluminium and did they come with longer bolts? I was going to get a set, but if they are just a piece of aluminium cut cut to shape with some dowels I might have a crack at making my own haha.

Do you need special licenses/ safety equipment to enter these?

I think you can bolt the throttle wheel from the aisan onto the weber, but you might want to check that...

Thanks :) I don't know what it is off, got it for $30 haha. I suppose i put it on the front even though it is a rear bar because I just couldn't stand the meter long diving board attached to the front of the car, the back didn't bother me as much. Ah well, I'll see how I go with the GT40, if the points burn out quickly then I'll go find the ballast resistor and chuck it on.

You might be right about the points burning out, I'm still not heaps familiar with dizzy and points style ignition. From what I read, a GT40r requires a ballast resistor, but a GT40 doesn't, but I don't know if the extra current will burn out the points. I installed new points a week or so before the coil so I should be able to tell pretty easily if the coil burns them out. They are only $8 anyway. Yea, GSL is pretty good, I've used them a few times. I went with QFM HPX for a few reasons. I've used them in my last car ('02 Mazda 323) and they were a good improvement on stock, to save some money, and because I didn't think I would be requiring the performance of the A1RM pads, I mostly just street drive with a hard mountain run maybe every 2 weeks. Also I've heard dimpled/ grooved rotors eat the pads a lot quicker so I didn't want to invest the extra money if they were going to get worn away quickly anyway. I explained that I wanted to run vented rotors but with ADM callipers to GSL and they said I'd have to use pads with 3mm taken off, so that's is what I got. I wasn't sure whether to go rubber or braided, but since they needed to be replaced I figured I might as well try braided. Hope it pays off haha.

So fair bit going on with the rolla. General maintenance; replaced the gearbox output shaft seal thats been leaking since I did the manual conversion Painted up my struts, brakes, brake mounts, dust shield and calipers in anticipation for my shocks, discs pads and lines which were put in the post on Monday so I'm waiting eagerly. Bushes have arrived, and SW20 to AE86 strut adaptor kit. Got a 5k!! It's not just any 5k either, apparently had 4age pistons and cam. Pulled off the head and it has .050 pistons not 4age pistons which is what I was expecting since the seller said the block hadn't been decked. Haven't checked out the cam yet and I've lost the txt with the specs... Hoping it is stamped on it somewhere. Can't believe how shallow the 5K head is. It is also pretty clean, no sign of mayonaise. This afternoon I'm going out to get a syringe and some perspex so I can cc the head and combustion chamber and calculate the compression ratio. The plan for this engine is: Convert to solid lifters, got a set of solid lifters and pushrods from a 4k spare here, just need rockers. If the compression isn't above 10.5, get it there with flat top pistons and a shaved 4k head. -Depending on the cam, get something suited to the 3000 - 6000 sort of range. I want something that comes on fairly early as it is a street engine firstly. -Port, match and polish. Considering I have a Dremel already it's practically a free kilowatt so I might as well put in the extra effort. -New head gasket, head bolts and intake/exhaust gasket. -Side draughts. -Move engine back 15mm. The drive shaft is about this much too short so instead of getting another shaft I'll modify the mounts. -Balance rods and pistons myself -Get price and balance/ lighten crank depending on cost -Lighten flywheel Also check out my work area haha