luk3333

Found these, http://www.precision...=41201&EID=4443 Seem cheap but they come in the .060 i was looking for.. Has anyone used them before? or the Precision site? They have a lot of 4k stuff

Mine was flat top 4k-c , single key way

Maybe they were stock with a double and when the chain was replaced people put singles on them? Or vice versa?

Cool thanks

Yea, that'd work

Just busted off the timing cover of my spare motor to discover a double row chain, woo! Are these stock or has someone been tinkering with engine?

Does anyone do a minispool for the Ke70 diffs? Anyway, update time. Firstly guards have been rolled / beaten Tools of choice: before after Only resulted in the one dent in the front left guard which I could have banged out. Has reduced the scrubbing a lot but still rubs at the front on tight turns a little. Also, since buying the replacement diff i had a spare sway bar. :hmm: This is probably the best dollar to performance upgrade I have done, cost almost nothing, took about 4hrs to design, fabricate and install and has improved the handling astronomically. Double the sway bar, double the cross sectional area, double the stiffness! I want to make another set though with bushings for the two middle brackets. Both end brackets are made of 3mm bar, 20mm wide and the inner brackets are made of 2 pieces of sheet bent and bolted together. Not heaps happy with the brackets solution so I'm going to make something up with 3mm plate and supper pro bushes.

Where's the rally in Taree? I'd like to come spectate and say hi :)

Yea, the valve was stuck, all fixed, cheers :)

I've seen it do that before when I've been tinkering before this issue, I'll have a look, cheers

After installing my AFR I've noticed that the carb leans out really bad when you jump on the throttle (like to 21 AFR). I previously thought it was bogging down to over fuelling but obviously not. If i put the choke on about 1/4 it solves the problem but idles rich, usually it idles stoich right on 14.7. So I'm thinking it might be a partially blocked jet in the secondary throat? I'm not very experienced with carbs so some input would be great.

Love those wheels! Good effort :) Is there any gymkhana footage?

Decided after further inspection to just replace the whole axle and diff, too much effort to fix..

Yea, i opened it up and a whole lot of metal fell out..., and the oil was rough like 180 grit. The pinion and crown gear were fine, it was how it was welded that did it. Don't know the names of the individual gears, but of the three smaller gears in the diff, the top one had split in half and jammed it up I'm guessing. I'll put a photo up of it tonight. If the oil was ruined, will that have ruined the pinion and crown gear? Because I've found another center, and I was hoping i would be able to just swap them and put new bearings in it. After the first incident it drove maybe 5km around town until it was permanently garaged

Central coast unfortunately, Thanks though

So a few days ago, the diff just locked up as i pulled out of a street. Felt like the hand brake had been applied. Then it unstuck itself once i restarted the car and everything sounded fine so i drove it home. This morning it happened again while on a light corner and now its definitely stuffed, bad noise and feels like its unbalanced... Is this a common when the diffs get abused? I'm assuming I'm going to need a new pinion and center?

So i was driving along a back road when *Bang* wheels lock up, and i come to a skidding halt. Diff is clearly ʞ©$ɟed, and i really need my car atm, does anyone have a diff they can sell me today to suit whatever the stock one it?

I've down jetted it, but if i understand right, due to the big throats/ low air speed its either going to run lean on idle and stoich at running or stoich at idle and rich at running put simply. I saw what you did in your build for the Girls's Ke70 with the twin oxy sensors and its quite clever. Is yours wide band? because my O2 sensor is 6 wire I'm pretty sure.. well a few wires so switching between sensors might require more than a switch Currently on idle I get 14:1 so a touch rich, and about 13:1 when cruising

haha yea...

Been slack as updating this with pics, but i haven't been slack working on the car :P This how the car sits at the moment. Up the front it's running cut and shut control arms. They were extended 25mm if i recall correctly. Arc'd by my mate with the lowest amperage stick we could find. Its got a piece of 20mm square box with a 3mm plate welded down one side to reinforce it and make a snug fit. This was half way between the length of a stock control arm and a S13 arm. This is with an S13 arm. And this is the S13 they came out of. The castor rod mounts were snapped out of the arm, soo he bought R32 ones and repaired the S13 ones as spares. Currently has a stuffed CA18DE, miss fires and bogs down like mad down low. He's swapping to SR20DE (if you can point me in the direction of one and the manual box, pm me), putting grizzly's 16x8 +0 and repainting the previous owners garage spray job. Thinking of grabbing the CA when it comes out for a CA conversion later on, hmm.. Manual conversion is complete, basicallly. still no speedo but yea, you get that. This is the wiring from the auto selector. Joing the two black and white wires to trick it into thinking its in park, the green one should be 12v when lights on and one of the red/blue ones is a 12v on accessory. The black one isn't a ground... Just for reference. This is the carbie adaptor for the 32/36 which doesn't work for 34adm... still waiting on longer studs to arrive, gonna bust a nut soon. Also thinking about running dual asains and making a manifold.. probably just a pipe dream though ( get it?) This is my $99 toolex drill press, does the job. And my 180amp mig. Good little unit, seems to do everything i need it to do. gas/gasless, solid core flux core, spool gun compatible.. First try at welding flux core and using mig, pretty messy... by the end of putting the headers in I was a bit better lol. Found using gas is HEAPS neater and better. Super unequal length headers. Major crush bends. Poop. But will have to do for now. I'd like to make up my own headers out of mandrels now that I have the mig. Cut a 25mm diameter hole and welded in an oxy bung. This is the Zeitronix AFR gauge. Really neat kit from the US. I chose to get it with the "hacker/tweeker" display which is just a 3 digit lcd display 16mmx40mm. Low key and simple. The kit came with everything needed: bosch oxy sensor, heaps of length of wire, lots of instructions, and it also can be used as a data logger. This is the ZT-3, which only does AFR and costs $160 including sensor. The Zt-2 also logs data but for AFR, fluid pressure and tempreture and EGT, rpm, tps, boost and vacuum making it a very versatile unit for about $300. I'm starting a blog/ shop about diy car building and tuning and I'm thinking about keeping a few of these on hand to sell considering how neat the kit is. I also have a set of P/S ae86 arms, calipers, struts, rotors for a conversion once funds are adequate again. I also got some m14 rod and long nuts to lengthen my steering arms so I can run S13 arms. Thats pretty much it. The dash and interior is slowly being converted to black and it looks rad. Paint is stuffed as ever and will need attention. When the blog/ shop is ready I'll chuck up a link in here, if thats not cool mods just pm me :)

Just read this thread and I'm amazed. I've always had the interest to get into rallying eventually, starting with some gymkhanas and track days. What clubs should I be looking for? And what are good events for entry level?

About 20 hours work and it is now manual! would have 34adm too, but the adaptors studs were to short :/

Short update, big update after this weekend or next. - Zeitronix AFR sensor arrived - Redline adaptor plate arrived (should have made my own up, super simple...) Need to buy jets and an air filter still. When i get the K50 and bits either this weekend it will be converted to manual asap, then carbie and AFR meter installed. Next on the list is coilovers (probably BC since it has warranty, camber tops included and cheap as), then cam and a tacho with DIY limiter as seen on rolla club (can't remember the member who posted it but its a good idea ;) )

oh yea? How come?

cheers :)