May 29, 201313 yr comment_657360 my daily might not be so daily now.... twin 40DCOE webers 290/295 cam with .453 lift comp cams regrind. spool H beam forged rods ARP rod bolts 20" over bore pistons 11.63 compression dual valve springs roll master timing chain and sprockets special modded sump. the original flywheel has gone from 7.25kg to 5.5kg. 3k head with valve stem seal update full bottom end balanced block decked and honed exedy heavy duty clutch. crane cams xr3000 electronic optical ignition conversion, using 7M coil. regraphed distributor shimmed oil pump extractors redline dual carbie intake manifold redline filter socks (to be replaced with twin oval filters) rev's to eight...but only because any higher and the i risk cracking the block, if i have to rebuild again one day I will partial grout fill it, and it might need a bigger muffler. I thought the fact it only makes 70hp at the wheels would be a bad thing but it's one of the most fun cars i have ever owned. things on the do to list : new filters new exhaust. retune this video was of the old 5k that was in it, i was test fitting the carbie's and the electronic ignition. more vids to come along with pics Edited May 29, 201313 yr by Farch Report
May 29, 201313 yr comment_657376 Nice! What's it like around town and at traffic lights... that annoying "under 3000rpm" driving? Report
May 29, 201313 yr Author comment_657397 Nice! What's it like around town and at traffic lights... that annoying "under 3000rpm" driving? Well it doesn't' come on till 3500 rpm and the cam runs out at 7500. But because the engine has 11.63 compression it's not too bad. But the idle's heaven. Edited May 29, 201313 yr by Farch Report
March 24, 201412 yr Author comment_679954 now has 16mm ram tube instead of the stocks (75 mm i think). since replacing the throttle linkage with a simple balance lever and getting rid off some air leaks the engine has shown one of symtoms of having too high comp and massive cams where the engine self accelerates when light throttle is applied then removed. Lowering the idle screw then resetting again gets it at the correct idle speed then as soon as you apply any throttle it will self feed again after. loading the engine up with the clutch to lower the rpm will also work to get it running at correct speed. apparently the only fix for this is to drill a small hole of the correct size in the throttle butterfly of each carbie so the butterfly then sits flat against the stop with no idle screwed in, the drilled hole should be controlling the idle. Only down side is i won't be to able modify the idle speed at all once set. have got this right? now if it only had brakes...... Report
March 25, 201412 yr comment_680046 What chokes and jets/emulsion tubes are you using? Have you tried out different idle jets? Report
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