conan Posted June 1, 2013 Report Posted June 1, 2013 I put a new clutch in my ae71 its got a fwd bigport engine with a t50 behind it putting the new clutch in did nothing maybe even made it worse. I replaced the master and the slave just to try and eliminate all options before dropping the box put again... Still no good (sigh) so last night i dropped the box again and the fins on the pressure plate looked twisted or warped the clutch i bought was for a ae92 so ot didnt come with the right thrust bearing so i got the right one but now I'm not sure if the pressure plate is right or of the clitchs match up or if anyone has seen the fins all contourted before also when i undid the pressure plate the fins all went back into place cheers Quote
altezzaclub Posted June 2, 2013 Report Posted June 2, 2013 What was the problem in the first place?? Did you replace the clutch plate, pressure plate and the release bearing all together?? Pop the pressure plate & clutch plate into a clutch shop and ask them to check it. There might be a crack in the ring that joins all the fingers together. I've seen exactly what you described, they are not in a flat circle when bolted down and the clutch shudders, but when you take the plate off they look OK. Another problem can arise from burns in the flywheel, usually made by a bad clutch plate in the past. The burnt areas have a different grip level to the rest, and the only solution is to machine the face clean. I don't know what differences there are between the 4AGEs, but the obvious ones would be that the clutch plate diameter has to be the same, the flywheel surface has to have the same height across it where the pressure plate bolts down, and the thrust bearing has to have the same throw. I can't see Toyota bothering to change it. Quote
altezzaclub Posted June 2, 2013 Report Posted June 2, 2013 OK, just caught up with your other topic on this- Get the components checked, although they are probably OK. Stick a flat-edge across the flywheel and make sure the flywheel is flat and its not burned. You did buy a car people build to thrash the crap out of... The clutch plate sits with the spline 'nose' facing away from the flywheel, as you have learned, so the fibre ring sits flat on the flywheel facing. If you spin the clutch plate slowly on the gearbox input shaft it should spin without any runout at the edge. A wobbly clutch plate will shudder. The pressire plate sits nicely flat on the clutch fibre plate with a couple of mm gap under the places where the 6 bolts go. That is all the pressure movement the pressure plate has. Tighten the bolts across the pressure plate evenly in a star pattern, (not around the plate) a turn at a time each. Slow, but it pulls it down evenly and doesn't distort anything, like tightening down a head. With the gearbox on, the slave cyl should touch the arm for the thrust bearing before halfway along its stroke, and with its piston well inside the slave cyl. I don't know what rod you have for that connection, but Datsuns have an adjustable one and you wind it out to start the piston right at the bottom of the slave cyl. You might have to make something there. At the other end, the clutch pedal shoud have no more than an inch of movement from picking it upwards to starting to push the master cyl. Then it should only move an inch or so before it is pressing the pressure plate, and it should have released the pressure plate by about half to 3/4 way down. You might have to change the rod that joins the clutch pedal to the master cyl for this, and make sure the pivot and the firewall mounts don't flex. Don't be afraid to change rods, I cut the rally car ones shorter to get the pedals lower for Steve's long legs. They are just another mechanical system that can be customised. Quote
conan Posted June 2, 2013 Author Report Posted June 2, 2013 All sorted i used the new clutch with the old pressure plate worked a treat heaps stoaked Quote
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