Ke20 Jerking Need Solution.

[altezzaclub]

Did they say what they did to make it stop jerking?

 

The starter carbon brushes would be the obvious culprit, so if you renewed them and cleaned the copper of the armature it might just be weak windings. If they get over-worked their resistance changed and they lose power.

 

The solenoid is more of a go or no-go situation as far as I know, and the only thing left is the ring-gear/starter gear meshing. That is also a go or not-go problem usually.

 

How about earthing? Check the earth from motor to chassis and chassis to battery, one connection might be dirty. I assume you've checked the battery positive.

 

Our R31 Pintara always turns over slowly on the starter, but always starts.

[jasonke20]

its a valve setting problem..

they had change top kit part (oil seal..gasket..) and service the valve (grand valve)

 

About the starter..what will u suggest me to do to make it start a kick without a cough.. Coz it make my battery(new) flat/weak sometimes.

i will check the earthing first..and if its not make any change..i'll check the starter gear..i hv friend that suggest me to change the starter bushing..will it be the problem too..?

 

i had checked my earthing connection it has 1 cable from battery to the block and block to body...but the block got too many old engine oil leak stick on it...for that reason i think it can't supply better earthing for the car with the oil stick with it..can i make a new connection at a clean area in the block and where for better earthing..?

[altezzaclub]

Just clean the oil away with "brakleen" or some solvent, and sandpaper off any rust under each connection.

 

Now, I didn't realise the motor "coughed" when you tried to start it. That is usually from ignition timing being too advanced, which also makes it hard to turn over on the starter motor.

 

Another cause could be worn valves & seats so the valves aren't sealing perfectly, but if I were you I'd check the ignition timing first. Of course a tappet gap of almost nothing will cause backfire problems too, but I think they reset your tappets in that service they just did.

 

So clean the connections and check the ignition timing and see if they make a difference.

[jasonke20]

ok dude..i'll do what u had suggest and let u know soon..thanks for the tips..

[jasonke20]

Timing was set to 10 deg advance..what i had found is the cable plug seem need to be change because it spark out an electric when i touch the cable..same thing with the dizzy cap..jz mention that the dizzy pole had damage cz of the electric spark..goin to change it now..

i have some more question :

 

A - Do you know what type of cable use for grounding...also for most of car electric part wire used..need to change some wiring that hd crack/poor..

 

B - Distributor Wiring Diagram for ke20 (i only use distributor, ballast resistor & coil).

 

Thanks

Edited July 17, 2013 by jasonke20

[altezzaclub]

Ok, you've probably found the whole problem for it jerking.

 

Get new high-tension leads for the coil and the 4 spark plugs, and a new distributor cap. Those are the only wires that carry more then 12volts, so the other wires in the car don't lose electricity very easily.

 

10degrees is correct for timing, so that was no problem.

 

A- I use the biggest wire I can find for the earth from the motor back to the chassis, & same for chassis to battery. If you can find a battery positive + cable off another car that has the right terminals, use that. The other wires around the car vary according to what load they take, the headlights need bigger wires than indicators or horn or the dashboard wires.

 

B-Here's the wiring diagram. The wires used when you turn on the ignition are marked in green, the wires used when you turn the key to 'start' are marked in red..

[jasonke20]

after an overall wiring and part i had change yesterday...it run quite smooth last night for a test...but this morning when i try to throttle on its seem like to die on the road(on gear) but didt die anyway when i free the gear... the car is at, say 40km/hr and I start accelerating,

when it gets to like 60 it stops increasing speed and starts jerking violently,

if I take my leg a bit away from the pedal and start accelerate again it jerk until i off the car and start again then it just respond to accelerate.

 

electric issue again, gas oil or transmission fluid..?

Edited July 20, 2013 by jasonke20

[altezzaclub]

OK, lets go over it- You've put in new-

plugs, points, condensor, leads, dizzy cap, but not coil.

 

You've had the Nikki carb on for a few years and had the problem that long too. It has the window so you know the petrol is at the right level when you look..

 

You had a top overhaul recently, so I expect they checked tappet gaps and set plug gap and points gap and timing. That stopped the jerking problem for a few days. Did they take the head off, do you know?

 

It starts slowly and coughs, and sometimes runs the battery flat. It jerks and dies if you accelerate up to 60kph.

 

So.....

 

If you haven't changed the coil then get another and try it, either a new one or swap with another car that works OK, just to see.

 

If the other coil doesn't solve the problem of jerking then lets look at the carb.

Go driving and when it jerks turn the motor off immediately and coast to a stop. Check the petrol level in the carb window. We want to make sure it is not low when it jerks but OK when it idles.

 

Watch down the carb as you open the throttle quickly and see that a jet of petrol gets squirted down the throat by the accelerator pump. Check how the second throttle opens, either a vacuum diaphram or a mechanical linkage. Maybe the first half of the carb is working, (slow speed) but the other throat (more power) isn't opening. See if there are numbers on the throats telling you how big they are.

 

If it looks like the throttles are working OK, then you will have to pull the carb to pieces and check the jets and drillings to make sure one is not blocked. That is when you note the numbers on the jets so you can see if it is a carb designed for an 1800cc and your motor is too small to make it work properly.

 

It may be too lean at 60kph to accelerate, but if you sneak up to speed slowly it is OK.

[jasonke20]

Did they take the head off, do you know?

.

yes they have..they services and clean all dirt inside..

 

 

 

this prob not often happen...it jz start before i change those dizzy part..

let me explain better..I'm on the road run with gear 2..then try to make a long accelerate to feel the car power before changing gear to 3...and after that its going to jerk..i try to continue runs at gear 3 but it would't run..i free the gear(still run on the road with free gear) and race the engine..the idle is ok..no misfire anyway..try it again to continue run from gear 2...still the same..until i off the engine and start it..it respond to accelerate.

 

i haven't top up my gearbox oil since i had change my lining kit last month..the mechanic told me the fluid is getting low and need to refill..i forgot to doing that..its the gearbox fluid reason maybe i think..

Edited July 20, 2013 by jasonke20

[jasonke20]

I'm goin back hometown next month..will drive a long distance..hope will settle everything before that day..afraid gt a prob in the middle way..no one there and it a hill jungle way...

[altezzaclub]

I'd be very surprised if it is the gearbox. Is it automatic or manual?

 

i free the gear(still run on the road with free gear) and race the engine..the idle is ok.

So it misfires under load. The higher gears (3rd instead of 2nd and 4th instead of 3rd) make the engine work harder. Everything like the coil and the plugs and the fuel feed in the carb has to work harder, and something is breaking down. It sounds electrical still from that problem, but you've changed everything except the coil. Try another coil before you leave on your trip and check for broken wires on the coil/distributor.

 

still the same..until i off the engine and start it.

That is very odd. Certainly it suggests something electrical. It could still be in the ignition circuit itself, but I can't see why it would break down under load. The wire from the key to the ballast, or the ballast to the coil, or coil to dizzy. Does the red 'charge' light come on when it breaks down before the motor is stopped??

Edited July 20, 2013 by altezzaclub

[jasonke20]

I'd be very surprised if it is the gearbox. Is it automatic or manual?

 

its manual 4gear.

 

 

Try another coil before you leave on your trip and check for broken wires on the coil/distributor.

 

yeah..still the coil i havent change yet..i had used it for a year since i change it last time due engine wont start..

i had check the wiring to the coil & distributor..it all fix up..

 

 

that is very odd. Certainly it suggests something electrical. It could still be in the ignition circuit itself, but I can't see why it would break down under load. The wire from the key to the ballast, or the ballast to the coil, or coil to dizzy. Does the red 'charge' light come on when it breaks down before the motor is stopped??

 

the 'charge' light is always on when the key is 'on' position and disappear when engine is start.

my wiring diagram is like this..from key to ballast...from ballast to coil +...from coil - to distributor connect together with point & condenser.. that's all...

jz need to try 2 things...change the coil / change gearbox oil...

maybe will change the point too...may have point burn..

[jasonke20]

had done carburetor service....new coil....prob come again...i can't pass over a car in highway..!!!

WTH i should do for her..?? will the fuel pump be the prob instead..? coz it will stop rev after a long gas on..only the carb air in hear out... but didt die at idle....still can rev like a ferarri...it juz respond to normal when i off the engine and continue ran on a gear..

[jasonke20]

this is my engine look like...

 

[altezzaclub]

What sort of air filter is that? If you take it off and have no filter, does the car run better??