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Ke55 Auto/manual Conversion

Featured Replies

Hi all

 

I have just purchased a very tidy ke55 (125000kms)

and its a auto, I have also aqired a nother ke55 which is a

manual less motor it has a four speed and the guy told me it

was not going into 3rd. What is my best option for a simple

bolt in conversion, I am wanting to work the 4K or a 5K but that

is another question. Whick box would be the the strongest conversion

to bolt straight to the back of a K engine.

 

Regards

Joe

From what i understand, either box should be alright. For ease of installation stick with the auto. But if manual is preferred, keep the other car around till the conversion is complete. You will need the spot welded plate around the gearstick, pedal box, maybe some wiring loom pieces (at least the loop so it starts,) manual and clutch cable. Console is different and console brackets. From memory that is about it.

Auto corollas SUCK

 

And it's a pain in the ass piece of shit job to change to a manual. And being that your car is a KE55, the gearbox cross member bolt points will not be right for the manual, and you will need to move them on the body, or get a cross member made to suit.

:D I was planning on putting a manual in my auto KE55

 

It would probably be easier and cheaper to buy a manual KE55

Look, it's a descent size job. If you have two ke55's there shouldn't be any crossmember differences. All parts are there. The decision is up too you. If your situated in the east suburbs of melbourne i can lend advise in person, or even show you what i did to mine. Mine is a ke30 with all ke55 running gear and i had no problem with crossmembers. I changed the whole wiring loom front to back because of differences in motor loom and almost every other devise between ke30 2 door sedan and ke55, but you shouldn't have that problem with just a box change.

Your car is a KE30, that is why the gearbox cross member bolted in...his is a KE55 auto...the gearbox cross member WILL NOT BOLT IN, and I have no idea why you needed to change the wiring loom? I have changed 2 KE30's from auto to manual and not needed to change any wiring.

I got the car hell cheap so ill probly just use it for parts.

The only reason the loom needs changing is to remove start only when gearbox in park feature. That was the only thing we did to my ke20. In these changing auto-to-manual was a piece of cake but it seems ke55's arent so easy.

That is called the neutral/park switch, and you do not need to change any wiring to make the car work.

I changed the whole loom because the 4k bits were all different on the later ke55. Even the reverse light switch on the box.

  • Author

Can you tell me how far off using a manual cross member from a Ke55

would it be from the bolt holes lining up?

Edited by joe.neil

Doesn't a KE55 manual crossmember line up to where a KE55 Auto crossmember is? Damn, thats something to remember for the future.

 

Dan.

No it doesn't.

 

In KE30's they do...you can use KE30 manual xmember or KE55 manual xmember, as they are the same.

 

But KE55 auto's xmember was mounted in a different place on the body of the car. Which sucks.

 

And the wiring is essentially the same in KE30 and KE55, except for the alt wiring if you had the (evil) nippon alt, but as Nick said, just change the connections...not the whole damn wiring loom...I mean damn

  • Author

I've been reserching and found that Ke20 and Ta22 crossmembers

might cut it for a bolt in no fuss job.

 

Let me know your thoughts.

Joe

Unless they are a really weird shape, they wont bolt in...the gearbox crossmember point and the auto bolt points on the auto KE55 are like, 2 inches apart, I can't remember whether the mount points on the car are further back or forward from where they need to be, but I know it was a long long way.

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