styler Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 (edited) Common stainless steel alloy fasteners such as 304SS / 316SS are bad for galling, essentially the metal on metal micro welds itself on same grades, but to some degree using different grades the effect can be reduced. Not great in strength either but there are stainless alloy grades that could possibly be made and in some cases heat treated. In regular steel fasteners 4.6, 8.8, 10.9 and 12.9 are grades of strength - 8.8 with zinc coating should be fine. Torque wrench is good as well as either locktite, spring washers or antiseize pending application. Lots of older jap cars seem to use a lot of 8.8 zinc plated with one size finer thread than the std coarse and use a smaller metric head size rather than imperial. Theres a lot more to all this but thats a start anyway, hope its of some use :P Edited November 20, 2013 by styler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorollaNut68 Posted December 4, 2013 Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 Geez it turned into a quantum mechanics argument.... When you get your bolts and lock washers all sorted out...it's a thick rubber gasket...put a very thin coat of RTV on it, plus what you put on the round ends....finger tight all the nuts, then keep your eye on it and just tighten it til the rubber squeezes out just a tad, (maybe a micro tad, I'm not sure if an Aussie tad is the same as over here.) :) If sump bolts get stripped out, something terribly wrong is being done.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CREEDY Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 if its only a couple of them, no worries! just go overboard with the gasket goo ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luk3333 Posted December 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2013 Ended up pulling out and replacing all but 6 studs (for gasket alignment) with 8.8 grade bolts and stainless spring washers from Auto1, put a new gasket with a bit of rtv black on either side. Also redid the cam cover sealant timing seal for peace of mind. Did the sump up as Corolla Nut said, watching for the gasket to squish out just a metric tad or 2.43 imperial tads ;) No more leaks now :) Â For anyone searching this thread for information, the thread is M6, you need about a 15mm long bolt and at least 22 bolts/nuts/studs/washers (There is another sump gasket for the 4kc Auto1 sells with 18 bolts so I'm guessing there are two sump bolt patterns) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy43 Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 Yep correct, 3k and 4k+ run different sump bolt patterns. BTW I like to grub screw for a stud the timing cover, this enables easy sump gasket install, and If we need to change cams, just take the grub screws out with allen key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luk3333 Posted December 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 Maybe its different on a 3k, but on a 4/5k the timing cover has an inner lip and I tried and couldn't get the cover back on with out lowering the sump. My cover had bolts going into the cover so the studs weren't a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy43 Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 The 4k timing cover has larger bolts, not sure about the studs, Interesting don't seem to have a problem with the 3k. Cheers Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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