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Ke55 (4K) Rpm Issue


jay_howie

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Hey guys,

 

Basically I got my car started for the first time the other day, and without comparing it to another running 4k, it sounds alot louder than it should probably be. It's giving off a sound that may be an exhaust leak.

 

Symptoms:

 

- Acceleration is fine

- Starts fine without choke, but when choke is applied the rpm climbs as normal but quickly dies, or struggles at low rpm

- When brakes are applied, idle drops to 500 rpm

- When in drive, idle drops to 500 rpm, park is fine (its an auto)

 

So my main question is, could all these small issues be related to an exhuast leak? and secondly, how do I go about checked for the leak without burning myself? If it is the intake and exhuast gasket, could it be affecting both (hence the lack of airflow when I tap pressure off for the brake booster)?

 

Thanks

Edited by jay_howie
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Ok a little update,

checked all the vacuum lines, all good.

exhaust gasket, got one, but haven't installed it yet.

reset points and checked cap and rotor, all good.

spark plug leads, all good,

now spark plugs...covered in oil and jet black.

 

I am unsure as to what has caused this, I know its not good, when I first start the car, it does blow a bit of black smoke too I noticed.

This could be why I am having issues with the rpm I am guessing? Anyways a picture for your reference, and a bit of advice from some of the more knowledgable guys, thanks.

 

fyi, this spark plug (No.1 cylinder) was white on the tips, but the rest are all black. the spark plug part numbers that are being used are NGK bp5ey-11, which I think are also wrong!

post-16211-0-33014900-1385719118_thumb.jpg

Edited by jay_howie
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5y's are standard plugs and are fine.

Black plugs are a result of overly rich fuel mixture. Too much fuel. Start looking at the carburettor. Idle mixture and idle speed screw. Possible rebuild kit.

It's hard to say anything without knowing the overall engine condition.

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Check out what we did here: the one-piece exhaust gasket and make sure the studs and bolts all work fine.

 

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/27374-one-piece-manifold-gasket-who-makes-them-4k/

 

You can listen for gasket leaks with a bit of 5mm plastic tube in one ear when you first start the motor. Check the 'hotbox' gasket between the inlet manifold and the exhaust manifold, the head to exhaust manifold and finally the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe.

 

Starts fine without choke, but when choke is applied the rpm climbs as normal but quickly dies, or struggles at low rpm

Unless the weather isv ery warm where you are, it should need choke, so maybe its running too rich. Carb float level too high would be a start, shit under the needle seat, or filthy air filter is less likely.

 

When brakes are applied, idle drops to 500 rpm

Leak in the booster line, or in the booster diaphram. Does the pedal get sucked down when you start it with your foot on the brakes? Pushing on the pedal should momentarily lean it out as it sucks air from the booster, then it goes back to normal.

 

When in drive, idle drops to 500 rpm, park is fine (its an auto)

That's normal and it should do that.

 

now spark plugs...covered in oil and jet black.

Covered in un-burnt oil is normal from taking them out of Toyota's abysmally designed head! Covered in black burnt oil is either too rich or poor oil rings. Check how much oil per 1000km it uses. Ideally plugs should be light brown around the middle electrode and black around the outer edge.

 

Take it out for a run, nail it to 80kph and instantly flip it into neutral and turn the key off. Take out the plugs on the roadside and look, that will tell you what they are burning like under power. You can do the same at cruising speed, rather than in the shed at home where you are really just looking at them from idle speed.

 

Grab someone's compression gauge and check the compressions with wide open throttle, and if all cylinders are similar & over 140psi, don't worry about the motor it will go for years!

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Just a bit of an update, I have ordered the carby rebuild kit, and just thought I would update what I found when changing the exhuast gasket.

 

Just one question with the new gasket, I got some exhuast gasket sealant, should it be used on the exhuast ports? the old one clearly didn't have any sealant applied!

 

Will let you know how it goes, hopefully this can be of some help to someone else!

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post-16211-0-53370900-1386071378_thumb.jpg

Edited by jay_howie
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Yeah true, i will replace studs with bolts too. Ok so just rebuilt the carby, initially I found nothing wrong which was disheartening, but then I found right up where in the fuel supply is, a small strainer or filter which was almost completely blocked, and the idle screw appears to have been wound almost all out to compensate, 2 turns back from wound right in is where I have put it for now.

 

This made me think my fuel filter may also be blocked, guess what, there isn't even a filter on this, some retard thought it was a good idea not to have one. So hopefully tomorrow i can get the vacuum lines i need and try and fit a filter!

 

But before being driven next I will drain fuel tank, and start again, flush fuel lines, new air filter, and finally new spark plugs. Should run well after a bit of a play

post-16211-0-37580100-1386333810_thumb.jpg

Edited by jay_howie
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Small update, coolant pissed out of the head when i removed the fwd bottom stud to replace with bolt, is this normal? Head gasket? Have flushed fuel lines, new air filter and installed the new manifold gaskets and carby so far. My coolant system is full of mud, so a flush of the radiator and block will be done now, with anti corrosive mix and all new hoses throughout

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  • 2 months later...

The frustration of this has kept me from it for some time, and lack of time/money.

 

So,

The carby is rebuilt, new fuel filter placed in stock position to protect the carby.

New spark plugs

Rotor cap

Rotor

 

I ran out of fuel, while changing the coolant (which was where i left it for some time), I put some more 95 in and now it wont start.

It does turn over, and it jumps all over the ʞ©$ɟing place, like timing is wayyyy out (hence the rotor cap, spark plugs, rotor).

I reset the dizzy to where i thought it should be and its no better, I can't get it to hold rpm long enough to get a light on it.

 

But, what the hell? how can it go from running 80% well and final touches to running out of fuel and now not running.

 

I thought possibly the carby or fuel filter was clogged from sucking the dregs out of the tank, but they are both perfect (replaced filter anyway).

 

Any ideas? cos I am lost, is it possible something is stuck in the fuel pickup, or in the line?? Becuase I have not changed a thing from when it ran fine last time (except running out of fuel)

 

It might be worth nothing that the fuel it was using had been sitting for probably 6months-1year

 

Thanks heaps guys

Edited by jay_howie
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