I have noticed a lot of people that build their coilovers incorectly. One of the main thing I see that bugs me is the springs ability to remain captive. If the spring is too short can this be fixed by getting a taller spring with the same rate? I normally mention the SW20 MR2 struts for the shorter stroke, but sometimes it isnt enough.

I cut 40mm out the middle of my struts and got short stroke shocks. Gave me perfect ride height with the coils wound to the top.

I just purchased helper springs to fix this problem about 20 seconds ago...

 

http://www.otomoto.com.au/p/8779317/hsd-helper-springs-with-locators.html

I still have my helpers somewhere is case I feel like chassis dragging. Need adjustable perches first.

I have noticed a lot of people that build their coilovers incorectly. One of the main thing I see that bugs me is the springs ability to remain captive. If the spring is too short can this be fixed by getting a taller spring with the same rate? I normally mention the SW20 MR2 struts for the shorter stroke, but sometimes it isnt enough.

 

The only ways to have height adjustable coilovers with a captive spring that I can think of is to use base height adjustable coilovers or helper springs (or tender springs if you want a progressive spring rate).

Using a taller spring with the same spring rate will just make you car higher. If you can build the coilover so the spring is captive at the desirable ride height then that would be the way to go, but it's likely you won't get enough droop if you use stiff (over 6kg in a KE**) springs. This is why people use helper springs. If you run a softer spring you can get a reasonable amount of droop while still keeping the spring captive, like stock springs for example.

Edited February 14, 201412 yr by rian

It's all about choosing the correct shock and setting up the where you cut and weld the body so that at static height your shock is about half way through its stroke. And choosing a correct length spring that at full compression isn't bottomed out and at full droop are just captive.

 

 

Also good thing about coilovers is that even if the springs aren't entirely captive they can't go anywhere.

after building a few sets, i will now only do base adjustable, they are soo much easier to adjust and you never have any issues with captive springs plus you can adjust the pre-load for corner weighting. fortune auto in the usa do a very easy kit. just cut off the old strut a few inches from the base and weld on the new lower sleeve. all done!

 

there is a place in NZ called MRP who i get them through, i think he still advertises on toymods.

-phil

If I had known I would have used a similar kit. I think I got lucky with mine.

Good points guys. I am hoping that people will look here before building their coilovers, because I am tiered of seeing people messing up their set-ups.

Using a taller spring with the same spring rate will just make you car higher.

Not always. this can be a fix for someone with an adjustable perch maxxed to the highest setting that doesnt keep the springs captive. If you have a few inches of threads to spin down the perches, you can can definetly go up in spring height size. You can do this while keeping your car at the desired height and keep them spring captive.

 

Can someone link their helper springs and where to buy them? Pics would be good.

Edited February 17, 201412 yr by Skellington

Good points guys. I am hoping that people will look here before building their coilovers, because I am tiered of seeing people messing up their set-ups.

 

Not always. this can be a fix for someone with an adjustable perch maxxed to the highest setting that doesnt keep the springs captive. If you have a few inches of threads to spin down the perches, you can can definetly go up in spring height size. You can do this while keeping your car at the desired height and keep them spring captive.

 

Can someone link their helper springs and where to buy them? Pics would be good.

 

with the car at the same ride height taller springs will not make any difference at all, there will still be the same amount of droop in the shock travel and if the taller spring is the same rate it will have the same difference in loaded and unloaded height. the only change will be where the perch is located.

the only solution is shorter shocks or helper springs.

A taller spring may be the diffrence of a captive spring or a loose spring on a poorly built assembly. ;)

I have noticed a lot of people that build their coilovers incorectly. One of the main thing I see that bugs me is the springs ability to remain captive. If the spring is too short can this be fixed by getting a taller spring with the same rate? I normally mention the SW20 MR2 struts for the shorter stroke, but sometimes it isnt enough.

 

why bother asking a question if you "apparently" know all the answers and don't listen to others?

So I can point others to this thread when they ask me. Information is good.

welding the springs to the cups and tidy grinding/painting passes roadworthies ;)