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Ke70 Project 84 Slant


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so i picked this up a few weeks ago running so terribly it may aswell not have been. And not stopping when it eventually did get going.

i paid 800 for it which was probably too much but there is no rust in it anywhere which i thought was a decent win :D i also just wanted one and was sick of looking :P

its an 84, 5 speed and its stock as a rock so i can make it all mine. Plans are 3rz conversion, trd ae86 suspension all round, bucket seats, tidy interior up and a new coat of paint. previous owners spray can job is bloody awful.

 

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First up i fixed the brakes which luckily was just a badly leaking wheel cylinder in the rear. got that all bled out before dark and went to push it by myself back into the shed for the night. found out the front wheel bearings were adjusted that tight i struggled to turn the wheel with a breaker bar on the nut when it was off the ground. 30 mins later and both sides were free and smooth.

 

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when i picked it up it had 3 different coloured rims so i got the missus to strip them back to metal and put a nice shiny black on them.

 

i know its a pic of the backside but they were the same colour on the front

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with that sorted i set about getting the damn thing to run. after a couple hours of playing around with it i discovered an air leak in the manifold gasket, the carby leaked fuel and sucked air from a cracked gasket halfway down. then there was the internal carby issues. accelerator pump didnt work, the jets look ridiculously blocked and throttle valve wouldnt open all the way due to the sludge build up. so a carby kit was ordered and away i went with pulling it and the manifold off.

 

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i was right about everything in the carby which is good i guess :P manifold was covered in oily dirt so gave it a good hit with degreaser and the pressure cleaner to make it look a tad better. fitted it back up with a new manifold gasket and i reckon it looks much nicer.

 

got some xt130 struts and brakes on the way to convert to coilovers for the time being. have rear shocks and springs waiting to be put in too.

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Good to see it getting some love straight off the bat.

Good luck with it all dude.

 

cheers man

 

had another little play around this arvo as its still not running right. I'm chasing a rather annoying missfire/hesitation at idle. checked plugs, leads, coil, distributor cap and rotor, points and condensor to see if anything was buggered.

ended up replacing everything except the coil and leads. this made it run better but still not right :(

 

if i block off the carby a little bit it runs heaps better. so I'm thinking ive still got an air leak somewhere? maybe valve timing is up to shit? could a skipped tooth in the timing cause something like this?

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if i block off the carby a little bit it runs heaps better

It sounds like somewhere there is an air leak. Sadly you should have thrown away that two-piece manifold gasket and bought a $10 one-piece one.

 

The whole thing is a disaster area, if you lay a straight-edge along the manifolds I'll bet the exhaust face is not at the same height as the inlet. Two different metals bolted together thirty years ago... I've never seen one flat.

 

Ideally you should machine the two manifold's faces to be equal, but that's quite difficult, or unbolt the hotbox and do up the two manifolds separately. However the bolts always snap so a one-piece gasket and sealant has to do.

 

Actually, first take the carb off again, pull out the jets and squirt petrol through all the drillings with a syringe or a can of carb cleaner just in case there is a bit of dirt in one. The problem could be lack of fuel as easily as too much air.

 

Other than that, there is the carb-manifold gasket and spacer, or the throttle shaft clearance letting air in.

 

I can't see that valve timing is involved, did you set the tappet gaps?? ..and I assume you set the ignition timing after changing points...

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It sounds like somewhere there is an air leak. Sadly you should have thrown away that two-piece manifold gasket and bought a $10 one-piece one.

 

The whole thing is a disaster area, if you lay a straight-edge along the manifolds I'll bet the exhaust face is not at the same height as the inlet. Two different metals bolted together thirty years ago... I've never seen one flat.

 

Ideally you should machine the two manifold's faces to be equal, but that's quite difficult, or unbolt the hotbox and do up the two manifolds separately. However the bolts always snap so a one-piece gasket and sealant has to do.

 

Actually, first take the carb off again, pull out the jets and squirt petrol through all the drillings with a syringe or a can of carb cleaner just in case there is a bit of dirt in one. The problem could be lack of fuel as easily as too much air.

 

Other than that, there is the carb-manifold gasket and spacer, or the throttle shaft clearance letting air in.

 

I can't see that valve timing is involved, did you set the tappet gaps?? ..and I assume you set the ignition timing after changing points...

 

yeah all timing etc set properly and yeah i adjusted tappets as they were noisey as shit. intake were flapping in the breeze and exhaust were so tight i couldnt even get my thinnest feeler guage between. made me think that could have been the issue if valves were open when meant to be shut.

 

i did put a metal rule up against them both and there was bugger all in them. kinda looks like they had been done recently and the gasket was still relatively new. i did use a liquid sealant ontop of the 2 piece.

 

will spray something combustable around all gaskets and vac lines tomorrow to make sure there are definitely no leaks. then pull jets out and see how i go

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  • 4 weeks later...

So a little update. Not much has happened in the last month works been keeping me pretty busy and ive been waiting on parts/funds.

 

Did manage to get my brake setup sorted. Went with the hilux/peugeot/corona setup and holy crap are those rotors hard to find. French Car Care in brisbane were able to find 1 set down in melbourne :D they might be able to find more if anyone is looking for them.

 

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One of the bearing races had some rather large pitting so had to get a new kit. The other side was ok but changed it anyway.

 

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Here's what the peugeot rotor looks like sitting on the corona hub. Theres just that tiny little bit that needs to be ground away.

 

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And you end up with this.

 

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Old brakes and new setup to compare differences

 

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The steering arms to suit turned up this arvo but struts are at work :P Still waiting on coilover conversion kit and camber tops then it can go in :D

 

Does anyone happen to know if the standard metal brake lines off these type of calipers will work or should i just get new lines made up?

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