July 4, 201511 yr comment_698404 Hellc all I just bought a 82 sr-5 coupe with a 3tc engine. I went to upgrade my alternator. and ended up burning the wiring from alternator, to battery, to fuse box and everywhere in between. I have it wired up based off the original wiring so I know thats good, I just don't know how much burnet from the fire.. It literally s burnt up to the fuse box... Can it burn inside? will it ruin it? I hear these cars have fuse box problems anyways but I don't know if a deep cleaning and wire changing will work, or if it has to be replaced. I'm looking everywhere for one, but I think the reason I can't find it is because I'm looking up just corolla. What other cars take this item? Ill even use something close and eliminate and replace wires What blown fuses would cause the alternator not to read? Anybody know a site where you can find out what other car parts match mine. Where can I get an online engine wiring diagram? Everything I find is scanned without a color or letter key New thing that stopped working was my ignitor.. Kinda odd, If I manually power the coil I will start NO PROBLEM Now these things are 180+ What aftermarket options would I have.. MSD? I would need the Dizzy, and coil? OR Module also? Any other good brands? Also I heard advancing timing to get the most out of it you can increase the spark plug gap. Don't have a number, but was at 2/5th toward retard when bought.. Did maint, Threw in premium and got it at 7/8Ths advance. Current gap is stock. Should I double my gap? Or a 50% Addition? Edited September 3, 201511 yr by kenny727 Report
July 4, 201511 yr Author comment_698405 Also forgot to mention new this car had a/c and p/s The last owner wanted to make it a "race car" and took off Smog, A/c, ans PS. I also am not sure if these cam stock with an electric fan but thats there also. Now I can feel that 70 HP.. Pretty much just saying I have connectors all over the place and don't hell even a few open wires... is there a connector location guide or some way to find out where its from or where it goes? Edited July 4, 201511 yr by kenny727 Report
July 7, 201511 yr comment_698488 these may help 09 - Charging System.pdf 11 - Charging System.pdf Report
September 3, 201511 yr Author comment_699791 I appreciate the diagram.. saved them to my directory. Do you have any more? :D Fixed charging problem. Now having an ignitor problem. Plese read the updated first post Report
September 3, 201511 yr comment_699796 Find out what other cars use that igniter and get one from a wrecker. If you can find out the coil resistance get one from a car that has a similar resistance. The last one I bought came with an electronic coil and cost $10. Your timing expanation isn't clear to me, you might need to get a timing light and read actual degrees before TDC. More important than the total timing advance is the rate at which it advances, and an electronic controller to do that would be a great step forward. If not, once you have it running nicely you can play with the springs on the dizzy weights to increase the curve.. Report
September 5, 201511 yr comment_699869 If I manually power the coil I will start NO PROBLEM Well, to me this says there is nothing wrong with the igniter or the coil. Its a wiring problem supplying power to the ignition from the key. There must be a burned-out wire in the ignition setup somewhere, or in the key boss contacts. connector location guide I think these were invented after 1982. It takes more power to make a spark jump a gap under compression, so if you add advance and the fuel mix is less compressed when you fire it, you can run a wider gap. Whether it makes a difference in real life I don't know, 10degrees of timing near TDC is a very small amount of compressing. Give it a try and see if it missfires under wide open throttle. You can see from the wiring diagram that the red dots (actually a red wire) feeds the coil power while cranking and also feeds the starter motor. (black & white wire) If this is broken you may be able to crank it but there will be no power to the coil while cranking. The green dots are the coil supply while the car is running and not on 'crank'. If this is broken then the car will fire when cranking but die as soon as you let the key off. Your American model might be different, seeing it has an igniter, but the car still needs wiring to do the same job, so check the wires from the key to the coil. Edited September 5, 201511 yr by altezzaclub Report
September 5, 201511 yr Author comment_699878 That makes sense. So far the only wire going to the positive on the coil is a light brown. I have black going to - I will look for a broken blue/white wire or red wire, in the area to put on the positive of the coil. I really appreciate the diagram, but the resolutuion is far to small. Can you upload one of higher resolution? The temptation of almost having that is killing me HAHA! Report
September 6, 201511 yr comment_699903 Arrrgh! I see what you mean! It was giant when I loaded it, but of course its been down-sized for server space. I just found it in Goolge when I looked for it yesterday, but today the only one there is this one! If I find the original again I will PM you. ---------------------------------------------- Rian had a copy on here back in 2012 Try this- Its 3493x938 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/Beserker99/Random/T18WiringDiagramSmall.jpg Edited September 6, 201511 yr by altezzaclub Report
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