Hey guys hope you can help me out here

 

After I flipped my leaf springs back up the right way I started to get a whirling / wining noise coming from the rear.

It's not a howling noise like a bad wheel bearing. It's more of a friction noise.

 

It's hard to word it right sorry

 

It's on deceleration under 60 but constant above 60 and the faster I go the louder it gets

Being a wagon it sounds amplified and I can't stand to go on the highway.

 

I got under the car and I could move the tail shaft a fair bit and I could move it back and forward.

My uni joints are solid with no play.

 

Hope this vid works

View My Video

 

If that didn't work here is a pic of where the movement is coming from I think.

I have a ke35 diff if that helps

 

QUESTION 2

My diff has moved over to the passenger side

My back pass side wheel sticks out 30mm

My drivers side wheel sticks out 18mm

 

Why?

Pinion nut is loose, take the tail shaft off the diff and you'll see a big nut, you'll need to tighten this up.

 

specs.pdf

Edited June 18, 201610 yr by TRD ke70

Pinion nut is loose, take the tail shaft off the diff and you'll see a big nut, you'll need to tighten this up.

 

specs.pdf

 

Wow i didn't think it would be that easy

Thank you so much I really appreciate your help

So my pinion bolt was talked upto spec

But the whole shaft has play in it.

What would be the cause?

Did you loosen it a little before doing it up?? If not, try that. Make sure you smack the locking tab flat before doing it, and make a bar to bolt onto two bolt holes and take up the leverage as you turn the socket.

 

The pinion nut pushes two thrust bearings together, they locate the pinion shaft in the diff. Between them is a crush tube that should keep them the right distance apart at the correct toque to get an oil film on the bearings.

 

However you actually do it up until you get a certain torque friction when the shaft turns, just like doing the front wheel brgs to a touch of play. It measures the friction as the pinion turns, but not the crownwheel, so its only a few mm movement.

 

I think you're up for a full diff strip, but start with taking out the front bearing & crush tube and seeing what is wrong. If the bearing surfaces look OK then try doing it back up. In theory you always need a new crush tube, and you will need the torque friction for when it is correct. Its only an inch.lb measurement, so you might have to make a little weight set on an arm to measure it. Its the pinion pre-load, if you can find the data for it.

 

If the nut was always tight then something sad has happened inside.

Edited June 19, 201610 yr by altezzaclub