aidanmyles Posted September 14, 2016 Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 Hey guys, I need your expertise! The KE20 is at the mechanic's getting roadworthy (or trying too) and it's not passing because of a front brake issue. The previous owner did a KE30 brake upgrade to the front, to change the stud pattern I guess. Also had adjustable coils put into the front. Issue now is that the steering arm is pressing up against the back for the disc brakes, not allowing enough movement in the brakes to get them to compress firmly - I.E. BRAKES ARE SHIT, and always was a concern for me since buying and getting ready for roadworthy. Mechanics suggested solution is to replace the complete strut back to original KE20 OR find smaller brakes. I don't really want to go back to the old stud pattern and dislike the idea of wasting $3k suspension, especially if I intend on doing a 4age change in the future. Any suggestions? I wish I took a photo to help explain the issue better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aidanmyles Posted September 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 (edited) . Edited September 14, 2016 by aidanmyles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted September 14, 2016 Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 So calipers are on the back of the the discs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aidanmyles Posted September 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 (edited) The control arm is hitting the back of the caliper; the caliper assembly/cylinder body. I think that describes it? Does that sound correct? Edited September 14, 2016 by aidanmyles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted September 14, 2016 Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 Is the backing plate on the wrong side or orientation? Looking at them side on what clock position are the callipers? 10 O'clock and 2 O'clock Right and Left? The bottom pic is the lower control arm, callipers should be well clear if it. Cheers jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aidanmyles Posted September 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 Here's exactly what it looks like. The wiki makes it out to be a straight swap, I can't understand why mine's different. They're apparently ke30 rotors and calipers, maybe the struts are different now from the suspension upgrade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted September 14, 2016 Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 They are 55 girlock calipers..... which are on the front of the disc on a 55. Swap them over left to right and you will have ample room. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aidanmyles Posted September 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 (edited) Hey Taz, just checked them out, they're symmetrical in design, swapping them from left to right doesn't change how far they protrude. It also means the bleed nipple gets flipped to the bottom of the piston housing. Does the ke30 or ke55 steering arm fit the ke20? Edited September 15, 2016 by aidanmyles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 No not just swapping the calipers.... backing plate too. Then the caliper will be on the front of the disc (where it is on a 55), clear of the steering arms and the bleed nipple will still be on the top. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aidanmyles Posted September 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 Ohhh sorry, that's more clear and your first message means the same thing. Sorry for the confusion, I'm learning about this as I go. Thanks a lot for your patience and help Taz! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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