Jon

If you follow the wires from the fog lights one of them will go to a grounding bolt (or possibly front turning lights ground wire which will then go to a grounding bolt) Remove the bolt, clean the contact faces and re-bolt it. I'm not familiar with KE30s but the wiring diagram shows an earth for each front turning light.

Most likely a faulty/dirty earth. Run a jump wire from one of the earth wires to negative on the battery to see if it fixes the problem. If it does clean you earth points.

All the welded difs I've seen have the spider gears welded together and/or welded to the crownwheel carrier, neither of these should stop you unbolting the crownwheel off the carrier. different dif ratios shouldn't hurt as you will be using the crownwheel and the pinion from the welded dif

Agree with Dave, dif setup is a science, but.... your keep Crown and pinion as a pair if you swap the crown from the welded dif onto the non welded carrier. engagement patch is dictated by forwards backwards position of the pinion and side to side movement of the carrier. your not moving the pinion so that variable isn't changing. if you set the backlash the same your side to side position is the same so your contact patch is the same. pinion bearing preload is something that a lot of people have trouble with, your not touching that so all good. carrier bearing preload takes a bit of feel but is pretty intuitive if you've done wheel bearings. have done this in trucks that do linehaul work as part of my day job.

Your diff guy is right, and wrong crownwheel and pinion engagement is easy to get wrong but because your not removing the pinion the hard bit doesn't need to be reset. check the backlash on you not noisy it welded dif swap the crown wheel from the welded diff onto the not welded carrier, use a tension wrench and locktite on the mounting bolts Put your dif back together adjusting the carrier left/right to set the backlash the same as it was before you pulled it apart and your good to go.

If your welded dif isn't noisy make 1 diff out of the 2 centres you have. Swap the crown wheel from the welded centre onto the non welded centre and put it in the welded banjo and your good to go. I'd personally give it some new bearings and input shaft seal while you've got it apart. at least you know what you've got then

Best bet is to look for vacuum line diagram for the vehicle the carnie came off and see which one goes to the distributor.

+1 on what Coln said That's what we're doing to our 20 but with 70 calipers and rotors with 50 backing plates. The only difference to the back brakes are the addition of self adjusters, same diameter and width of shoe, same diameter slave cylinders. Iur front was originally drum so adding a dual master cylinder and a remote boater on the front circuit so we don't have to cut the body. 6" wide rims with good tyres is a lot of rubber on such a light car.

Hi Easiest bolt on upgrade is ke30/55 hub (need to use Ke20 inboard bearing & seal), Ke55 backing plate and Ke70 calliper. Put in good pads (the KE70 calliper let's you fit a fair bit better compound), braided lines, rebuild your master cylinder and put decent fluid in will give decent road going brakes. Anything else is fairly major work. Import of backing plates and calipers shouldn't be over the top. Cheers jon

Is the backing plate on the wrong side or orientation? Looking at them side on what clock position are the callipers? 10 O'clock and 2 O'clock Right and Left? The bottom pic is the lower control arm, callipers should be well clear if it. Cheers jon

As others have said, it's not the booster, the booster only reduces pedal effort, a dodgy one will give you a stiff pedal, it won't let the pedal drop to the floor or give you no brakes, you'll just have to push harder. Is the fluid level going down? If it is you should be able to see a leak. If it's not the master is bypassing internally, probably able to kit it if the bore is ok. Jon

Hi Can't answer your question sorry but I do have a 3k air cleaner housing spare that I can measure up. It's your's if you're interested at $20 plus postage. Thanks Jon

From your description almost definitely a dead booster.

I think TA22 bar should fit a KE26, fitted in my KE20 ok. The standard TA22 bar is 19mm, doesn't sound like much of a difference to the 15mm standard bar but gives a 160% increase in roll stiffness.

I put a standard TA22 one in my KE20.