Before I Rip The Gearbox Out....

[rebuilder86]

I'm about to rip out the k40 from my car.

Reason; today the car decided to start making a horrible noise when under load accelerating like a metal grinding noise in time with the engine.

Clutch in, it goes away. sounds to me like a bearing in the transmission on the input shaft.

I did hear a bit of bird chirping sound on the way back from a long trip the other day, only when changing down from 4th-3rd, or 3rd-2nd, only while the clutch was in the process of being a clutch.

Now its a constant rumbling like a smashed up ball bearing.

Anyone ever had this happen with these exact symptoms and find it was just the throw out bearing, or clutch press bearing, whatever you want to call it?

[Banjo]

Hi Jeremy,

Got some news for you, & I'm afraid it is all bad. It aint the throw out bearing, because its not even turning when you are driving & in gear ! Hope you've got another spare gearbox hanging around.

 

Cheers Banjo

[rebuilder86]

yeh ive had some people in the past try to convince me that throwout bearings can make noise when clutch is released as it lightly touches the diaphragm springs. Horseshit. however they told me once replaced their issues where fixed. again, horseshit.

I have no choice but to take the gearbox out and try to fix it.

else, its stuck here.

[Banjo]

Hi Jeremy,

You are right that if the clutch cable adjustment is not right, so that there is a gap between the throw out bearing face & the fingers of the pressure plate, you will get the throw out bearing spinning all the time, & not just when you push the clutch in. You will however have prior warning to this condition, as the throw out bearing makes a "wheeeerring" sound as it dries out, long before the throw out bearing collapses with resulting crunching noises.

 

Cheers Banjo

Edited March 6, 2017 by Banjo

[rebuilder86]

LOL this is the most interesting missdiagnosis by myself ive ever done.

I started ujndoing the gearbox, the clutch hydralic slave, he speedo cable, then thoguht, i should probabyl remove the prop shaft before i go on, grabbed the prop shaft and it wobbled, alot.

the ʞ©$ɟing bolts that hold it in were all loose! finger tight. not even finger tight, loose.

I replaced the unreplaceable Ujoint in the propshaft for the second time 2 weeks ago, as the first monkey did a shit job, and I think the constant undoing and tightening of the propshaft ujoint bolts to the diff shaft have damaged the bolts and the hole thing was loose.

Just ziptied it together and limped into town to get some bolts, its amazing how strong zip ties are!

[ke70dave]

hah! It's always the simple things that catch you out.

[rebuilder86]

and in the process ive found that the staked in u-joint i replaced 2 weeks ago is already failing and has about 1mm rotational play :(

Now i have to fix it again.

This will be the 4th attempt at getting it right, and the first atempt where i have been in control of everything, borrowing a welder from another expat living in the city.

 

I have only jungle tools,

a pencil grinding attachment on a powerdrill to flatten the staked parts inside the bearing cap holes, (no longer an issue as its now a simple "slide in" fit for the bearing caps)

a 100mm grinder to cut the ʞ©$ɟing u-joint in half to get it out and cut most of the horrible welds off the outside of the yoke which hold the caps in

a hammer to hit shit when i get angry.

 

The twits that did it for me said this was aligned! I was watching them like a hawk tryign to explain to them that they need to weld one side and push the other side towards it while welding it, and they told me to step aside, while they successfully ʞ©$ɟ it up.