June 28, 20188 yr Author comment_714894 Morning man. Thanks for the advice. So got the valves and timing done, new battery and got a few cracks out of it and all of a sudden no dash lights no power at the ignition. I'm starting to think she might be cursed hahaha. Any thoughts Report
June 28, 20188 yr comment_714895 Morning ! Something serious going on here ! You haven't given us a lot to go on, so I'll ask a few more questions, & see if we can narrow it down. I assume by "got a few cracks out of it", you mean the engine fired, or ran for a very short time, then went dead ? Do any other electrical items work, or are all the cars electrics dead ? Lights ? Horn ? Heater Fan ? Etc. Are any fuses blown ? If so, which ones ? Is the fusible link near the battery positive terminal intact ? I am assuming by "no dash lights", you mean no warning lights, like oil & battery/charge lights ? I might have to come across Bayside, & give you a hand. Electrical faults are always simple to fix. The hard part is finding them. You best friend is a multimeter or test lamp. Cheers Banjo Report
June 28, 20188 yr Author comment_714896 7 minutes ago, Banjo said: Morning ! Something serious going on here ! You haven't given us a lot to go on, so I'll ask a few more questions, & see if we can narrow it down. I assume by "got a few cracks out of it", you mean the engine fired, or ran for a very short time, then went dead ? Do any other electrical items work, or are all the cars electrics dead ? Lights ? Horn ? Heater Fan ? Etc. Are any fuses blown ? If so, which ones ? Is the fusible link near the battery positive terminal intact ? I am assuming by "no dash lights", you mean no warning lights, like oil & battery/charge lights ? I might have to come across Bayside, & give you a hand. Electrical faults are always simple to fix. The hard part is finding them. You best friend is a multimeter or test lamp. Cheers Banjo Yeah i got the engine turning over a few times it fired but didn't start then it went dead, no dash lights no horn, no stereo, no power. It couldn't see a blown fuse and still have to check the in line fuse. I'll have a fuck around over the weekend I bet its something stupid. If you wanna come have a look at her in the weekend be my guest man I'll flick you some cash for your troubles. Report
June 28, 20188 yr comment_714897 Can you take me some close up pictures of the ignition coil. Is it a sports or high performance coil ? Are you using points in the distributor ? I'm a bit concerned about the ballast resistor mounted next to the coil, which is tucked in between coil & mounting point. Your photos of the engine bay, blown up, do not provide me with enough resolution, but I can only see one terminal on the ballast resistor. Cheers Banjo Edited June 28, 20188 yr by Banjo Report
June 28, 20188 yr Author comment_714898 Its just a standard coil with a fanta can wrapped around it hahaha. I'll send you some pics of that area after work,if the ballast resistor. Also its running points yes Report
June 28, 20188 yr comment_714899 That Fanta Can might be the problem. All that fizzie gas, is making your engine "buurp". Ha ! Ha ! look forward to the pics of the coil. Cheers Banjo Report
June 28, 20188 yr Author comment_714900 Hahahaha i thought it was a bit much for the old girl! I might get a Timi g light as well just to make sure the timing is 100% I'll get those pics to you this arvo mate. Thanks again Report
June 29, 20188 yr Author comment_714901 These pics should be better, the resistor is not touching the coil at all Report
June 29, 20188 yr Author comment_714902 Found the problem this must have blown, I'll get one bigger then 100A its running from the battery to the starter Report
June 29, 20188 yr comment_714904 You shouldn't have one of those 100A fuses between the battery & starter. The big heavy cable between the battery +ve terminal & the starter motor should have nothing else in between. The starter motor current draw, is the highest current drawn by any part of your car. In Winter, it can easily be over 100 Amperes, whilst cranking. Your battery is probably rated at least, for 330 CCA (Cold Cranking Amps). The only high rated fuses needed in your car, are the two (2) fusible links, between battery positive terminal, & alternator, & the other one for everything else in the car. Those "MEGA" fuses are really there for things like fridges, big sound systems, dual battery systems etc. Lets know if it will start now. Cheers Banjo Edited June 29, 20188 yr by Banjo Report
June 29, 20188 yr comment_714905 That ballast resistor behind the ignition coil should be mounted on the front of the bracket holding the coil, on those two little "wings" with the holes on them. Those ballast resistors get pretty hot, so they need air flow over them, so that's why they are usually mounted up in a free flow air area. Cheers Banjo Edited June 29, 20188 yr by Banjo Report
June 29, 20188 yr Author comment_714906 Yeah I fucked it off and just linked it together, got the current back and power again. The battery is 550CCA heaps of AMPS. Got it fired up she's running again but I'd say it needs a tune, I'll take it for a drive tomorrow to see if its still doing the same thing. I didn't put that fuse in I found it in the line hahaha Report
June 29, 20188 yr Author comment_714908 I'll also get that resistor sorted out as well the last thing I need is more dramas with the engine bay hahaha. Wish I had a timing light that would sort it out in a jiffy Report
July 7, 20188 yr comment_714965 How are you going with this beauty now ? Is it all up & away, & now mobile ? Cheers Banjo Report
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