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whats size for electric fan can fit to standard radiator ke70 DX 4K engine?

Hi Thomas, I've used both solutions on one of my test bed engines. The one on the aluminium spout switches the electric fan, & the one Altezzaclub suggested; I use to log the coolant temperature on an independant temperature data logger, so I can see exactly what the cooling system is doing. Cheers Banjo

No, if you drill the larger diameter one you will find its only a few mm thick, nowhere near enough to carry a thread. Clean them both up with a wire brush and dig out all the corrosion holes and see how bad each one is. It wouldn't be the first time I've filled the craters with body filler and had them last for years. The bigger one is the ideal one obviously, but any temp fitting will have to go in the head, where the alloy is thicker. The best idea would be to buy an in-hose fitting, I've used them for years. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/225253674996?chn=ps&_ul=AU&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1Im-dDrB5R7C86KkC0s-uAw42&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=225253674996&targetid=2367800370202&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1000339&poi=&campaignid=21776442415&mkgroupid=173963205248&rlsatarget=pla-2367800370202&abcId=10047386&merchantid=7667992&gad_source=5&gad_campaignid=21776442415&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsPrt9KeWjgMV9yutBh11xhHNEAQYASABEgLGPPD_BwE

Hi Thomas, Yep, the one with the larger outlet, would seem to be the way to go. However, if it was me, in your shoes; I'd give both top outlet sockets a really good rub back with a rotary wire brish, on a drill, & then take a look to ensure there isn't any unseen corosion, that may compromise your project. A brand new 80 grit emery paper unside down, on a hard flat suface, show clean those gasket flange surfaces up sufficently ? Cheers Banjo

Hey fellas, tezza - to be honest mate that’s probably a little out of my wheelhouse at the moment. This motor I presume will be pulled late next year for an overhaul at a local legends (Charlie b) workshop so I’ll leave that one for him. The thermostat housings have arrived and we’ve got two options. You should be able to make sense on what I’m talking about from photos attached. Option 1: has a temp switch hole tapped in already, but the outlet diam is small than our other option… option 2: tap a hole into the housing with a larger outlet. This outlet will match the rad inlet what do we think about this? I don’t think it’ll make a such difference but in a perfect world I'm thinking tap the bigger outlet cheers fellas, input much appreciated as always

Good morning all ! I noticed this thread was started way back in 2010; 15 years ago ! A lot has happened in that interrim period. Thank Heavens; as back then, there were limited ways of improving headlight performance; both in terms of brightness & lower power consumption. I would therefore offer this link, as a pretty good place, to learn about all that is available out there now; & being an aussie site, also has some comments about ADR requirements. https://www.stedi.com.au/blog/post/complete-led-headlight-conversion-guide#overview It's one of those subjects where there are several parameters, that affect the ultimate goal, of being able to see; further/clearer/brighter, than what our Rollas, produced in the 60s, 70s, & 80s; could ever achieve. However, if It is hard to justify the outlay, of several hundred dollars to discard lenses, reflectors, & bulbs; then there are some simple mods You can do, some of which Altezzaclub has mentioned above. The single biggest problem with early headlights; was that they were power hungry, & pulled substantial current. Some of that power was wasted as "heat", but the simple ohms law was applicable for a 36 or 40 Watt headlight bulb. Ohms law where (Current = I, Voltage = E, R = Resistance, & P = Power) says Power = Voltage x Current Therefore a dear olde 55 Watt H4 bulb with 12 volts placed across it had P/E = I; 55W/12V = 4.58 amperes current, flowing through it. We tended to always refer to the 55W rating of the bulb as being it's light output. However, the tungsten bulb was not perfect. Anyone who has tried to remove one from a headlight, after it has been on, realises it is hot. That heat is waste heat, from the tungsten filament, that never gets transformed into light. There are lots of places in the headlight circuits, that produce "voltage drops", as Altezzaclub has highlighted. Switches; relay contacts; bad connections & undersized wiring; all act like little resistors in the circuit, reducing the actual voltage that ultimately is across the bulb; & ultimately; the amount of light, that the bulb can produce. All electric power to the headlights, leaves the +ve terminal of the battery, as current, & after it has done it job; returns to the battery's -ve terminal. If You care to sit down & study this path in those horrible Toyota wiring diagrams, it is probably several metres circuit distance. The fitment of relays, directly behind the headlights, is an excellent way of reducing the heavy current path length, for the headlights, from +ve to -ve battery terminals. 30 ampere 12V automotive relays are cheap, & this mod is fairly simple, to implement. The wires that connected to the headlights originally, now operature the relays; & the relay N.O. contacts, are fed 12V directly from the battery & back, via a suitable seperate heavy 20A fuse. There are posts elsewhere on RollClub, where I have described this previously. Every light on my Corolla, is now fed power directly from the battery; & all lights are switched by relays, close to the lights. This I did, prior to LED replacement bulbs being commonly available for every size bulb on the olde Corollas. The only one You can get caught out on, is the turn indicator lights, but I believe there are now plug-in flasher units, that cater for LED bulbs. Cheers Banjo

That's right. You don't get a high beam blue light with the system like that, unless they've improved it, but I remember I had the blue light working if I put a bulb in the other headlight plug and let it hang there. The original wiring diagram had a resistor in that line to make the blue light work. These days I have a separate little LED on the dash that I wired into the circuit and it comes on with high beam.

Oh I see what you mean so the black male pin plug goes into one of the stock harness headlight plugs the other one unused, then the yellow pin plugs go direct into the headlight bulb and the black wire connected to yellow plugs is ground and the red wire is battery positive.

$30 bucks can not go wrong I will try it out thankyou

That link is now here I think, the change from KE70.com to Rollaclub caused it- Try one of these kits, cheap enough and easy to do for what you gain, its what I now have on mine. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/144043979533?chn=ps&_ul=AU&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1vZn3r5k9SwOXM01GB5d-7Q4&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=144043979533&targetid=2370046502538&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071791&poi=&campaignid=21766134162&mkgroupid=175112620264&rlsatarget=pla-2370046502538&abcId=10047381&merchantid=115487535&gad_source=5&gad_campaignid=21766134162&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsafEhaOHjgMVgx-tBh2EejSgEAQYBCABEgIiHfD_BwE The relays pick up off one headlight plug, that's the black male-pin plug in the image, that goes into a one stock headlight plug.

Hello I just changed my headlights over from sealed unit to semi sealed, and upon reading this I am guessing you use a relay to to help with brightness and I am wanting to install relays but the link is no longer working, does anyone have a writeup on how to install relays for the headlights.

That oil pump has seen some rubbish go through it! You should have a flat sheet of half inch thick steel in the workshop, maybe the size of an A5 sheet of paper. You wrap a sheet of 180grit wet 'n dry sandpaper on it, spray some CRC on it and wipe that oil pump base around and around until the grooves mostly vanish. If you're keen, take the pump off you can do the bottom of it and do the impeller too. Then clean them all really well! Anything that needs to be flat can be sanded, like a thermostat housing that has had the aluminium pulled out of shape by some guy with big spanners. There will be a gap listed in the 4K manual for the oil pump rotor tip clearance. A thou or two I expect.

The Starlet marque has been around almost as long as the Corolla name. I know there are far more of the Starlets in Kiwi land, than here in Australia. Because they retained the rear wheel drive, for so long, & they were very popular in Japan, for road racing; that resulted in there being a lot of "after market" sports components manufactured, including suspension. Starlet bodies, also have been modernised over the years, & I believe a Starlet GTR or something special, in being planned for release in 2026 ? https://www.drive.com.au/news/2026-toyota-starlet-rumours/ There are also lots of special panels available, if You want to go all the way. The Starlet, with a wheel in each corner of the car, made it a wonderful rally platform, with little overhang, & lots of aftermarket suspension parts available. Twin OHV engines were also a popular upgrade. Not quite sure how resistant to rust, there are; compared to the KE series Corollas ? https://www.my105.com/search/details/1982-toyota-kp-starlet/057f5777-9c4b-46cd-beda-0ca0c2b0cc8f I'll leave You with this one ! https://www.tiktok.com/@twinenginecorsa/video/7374758402427309345 Cheers Banjo

When engines are "this olde", I always strip every down to clean & inspect. Particular in the sump area, as it is a place, that You rarely get to inspect, whilst the engine is in the engine bay. Oil sludge build up on passage ways etc, is also a good reason to clean everything thoroughly, before reassembly. Cheers Banjo

Found this sump in my garage, not bolted to an engine. There appears to be a couple of sizes of sump drain nuts used by Toyota in those days. This one used a 14mm spanner, but I've got others that use a 12mm spanner. As in Thomas' photo, the threaded section, to accept the sump plug, is threaded up inside, the sump; resulting in the last bit of oil being retained in the sump, when draining it. I can see why someone; would create that little hole, in the threaded section; to drain the very last bit of "olde" oil out. Probably a better way, would be to carefully grind/file/cut out that threaded tube, & weld a new threaded section, to the outside of the sump. These threaded sections with threaded plug, are commonly available, in different sizes; at places like EFI here on the Gold Coast, in Qld. However, some may look at that picture & say; hold on, that plug is on the side of the sump; & not the bottom. Remember, the K series motors are installed; tilted to one side; so that sump drain point, is the lowest point on the sump, when installed in the engine bay. However, what caught my eye on this 5K sump, that I acquired some years ago, from a guy in Gympie, who had it in a dirt circular track midget speed car; was this other fitting on the side of the sump. It has an electrical fitting, with two pins. My first thought was maybe Toyota put some sort of heater in the sump, for models exported to very cold countries. However, the plug contacts were too small, to handle a large amount of current, so my next best guess; was that it was some sort of oil level monitor. There was a baffle inside the sump, directly above it, so I could not clearly see what it was. So out with the 4 off 8mm bolts; & a low oil level alarm contact device appeared. It appears the black rectangular piece of "plastic/bakelite" type of material, on the LHS of the picture above "floats up", & the circuit is "open circuit." It's travel is only 5-6mm, but when it drops to the bottom, the circuit is closed, & presumably lit a warning light on the dash. I did not clean this switch up, but it still works perfectly, as I put the multimeter across it, measuring ohms. This is not some aftermarket part, as the sump has a factory original flange for mounting it, & it looks like extra baffles around it, to keep the oil around it, from "sloushing" around. I dare say, it would not be used in the midget racing car; as there, the oil spends most it's time half way up the side of the sump, facing the outside of the track. So there is always something to learn; & K Series engines, are still revealing their magic ! P.S. I discovered that Toyota, , used a slight variant of the 5K oil level switch on later model Hilux, Prado, & Lexus vehicles in the USA. Slightly different; but Toyota obviously pulled out the original drawings. However, at about AUD 330 ea. out of the USA, I won't be buying one, anytime soon ! Cheers Banjo

that’s interesting, I just had a wee google and the power numbers are pretty close between the 4ku & 5k ay. Surprising, Makes me wonder why the previous owner choose to go with a 5k head, unless it was skimmed it would’ve dropped compression. Also unsure if it’s got a mild cam in it. Such an unknown motor ahaha. We’ll get some answers once it’s completely stripped down. whipped the base off the oil pump. From a first glance the spout and pump mating surfaces look in good order. Those wear marks you can see don’t catch a fingernail at all. would there be any need to remove the upper housing beyond the pump?

Interesting ! I don't think I've ever seen that previously ? Have to go & have a look at a sump, in the shed, that's not bolted to a engine. I'd be taking that oil pump off & dismantling it, & having a good look/inspection inside. I actually have a 4K-U engine in my daily KE-30 2 door drive. If You look at the Toyota K Series engine "yellow" bible; the power out of the 4K-U, is considerably more than the standard 4K-C; & not too much less, than a 5K. Have fun ! Cheers Banjo

Ahahaha, shit thats a big 5k! well fellas, sump is off, I’ll be on my third sump seal if I can’t get the goop off but that’s okay! Upon taking the sump off I noticed we’ve got a 4k crank… 4k timing cover & dished pistos so all fingers are pointing towards 4K-u correct? Do all k series run a 4k crank? I think I may have read this elsewhere or would they be stamped 2k,3k,4k etc? I’ll also whip those studs out shortly and get some new bolts from blacks. also see attached the photo of the sump where there’s a gap in the threads.. I’m guessing to allow oil to flow out of the lowest point. Somewhere along the line the sump steel has been pushed up into this gap. I’ve been looking at Aeroflow fittings and the plan is to loose the entire old bung set up and weld the new one on the exterior flush so we get a good flow out when doing oil changes thats all for now, touch base soon. cheers fellas

Hi Thomas, These are the studs, Altezzaclub, is referring to. Went through this ordeal recently on a 5K, in situ. Had to back two nuts onto each other; to be able to extract the 4 off studs from the engine, in a cramped & crowded position, before I could remove the camshaft sprocket front cover. Pain of a job, & impossibe, with the studs remaining in place. I replaced the studs with bolts, in case it has to come off again. P.S. Notice how the engine TDC timing marks on the 5K camshaft sprocket cover, are in a different position, to those on the 3K & 4K engines. A trap for those mixing & matching parts on K Series motors. I got caught years ago ! The TDC nick/indentation in the crankshaft pullies, is also in a different position, relative to the keyway in the crankshaft & pully, which is vertical at TDC on all K series engine models. There are quite a few second hand parts for K Series engines, available on ebay. I came across the following one this morning, which has to be the smallest 5K engine Toyota ever produced, at 1.5cc capacity. Cheers Banjo

Do it now! Otherwise the motor will run like a dream for years and leave oil patches every time you park! Does it still have the 4 studs under the crank pulley? Replace those with bolts, in case you ever want to remove the sump in the car...say, because you didn't fix the plug thread now and you're tired of oil leaks! Its difficult but not impossible to get the sump off without pulling the motor out, but only if those studs are gone. Only you can know if there is enough thread strength to hold the plug in, but it should take 15ft.lbs I'd say, a solid but not hard tighten with one hand on a ring-open spanner.

bloody magic, I’ll get onto that tomorrow. Fingers crossed it should be laid to rest on the subframe and back in the bay in 6 weeks ish for a run up. this arvo I hit another wee bump in the road. I hadn’t really noticed it when dropping the oil pre pulling the motor as I bought the car a few weeks prior… A combination of an uneven sump-to-plug surface & a couple dicey threads led to a leaky plug this arvo when filling with penrite. Option 1: We rip the sump off again and have a new female fitting welded on and plug fitted. Will have to get a new seal and razor the gasket maker off. Bloody faffs. Option 2: I try and find an 18m ID rubber flat washer that can deal with oil and high temp and try that first. The plug does tighten well in the sump threads, just feels a little wobbly on the way in but I’m guessing that’s to be expected with a 1.5mm thread pitch? Sump plug size is 18x1.5 Not the end of the world and if welding a new fitting in has to be the way forward we’ll come out the other side better for it. Just a bloooody faff

I've always used light sewing machine oil, like you get in those little household size tins. Like Altezzaclub says . . . spray it down towards the sides of the walls of the cylinders, so it get into the ring gaps etc. The real danger with old engines sitting around, is when the spark plugs are removed permanently for storage. Screw them back in. Plug exhaust & inlet manifold with wrag to stop air entering there, as there will always be some valves open, allowing outside moist air into the cylinder proper. If the head has been removed, smear grease into cylinder walls, & around the top edge of each piston. They can store sucessfully for years like that, as it prevents "moist air" acting on the cylinder walls. Cheers Banjo

I'd get some CRC 556, WD40 or Q20, whatever and squirt some in with the extension tube on the valve. If you spray the far wall it will run around the rings and coat the cylinder walls as you turn it over. Only needs it once every few months. The 90% kero spreads the oils around and then slowly evaporates, and it will burn out when you start the motor.

To be honest, I’ve only ever had starlets with k series motors in them and when I look back I wouldn’t have changed anything ay. They’re an epic package, simple, and a heap of fun as is with some noisy/peppy upgrades. At the moment I just wanna turn the key and have a tidy example starly with a few good supporting mods/updated tech where necessary. Take it hooning and keep things simple…famous last words hahah I’ll look into that YouTube channel, I’ve also got a donor 4 door flat front shell that has some rear roof corner rust that needs addressing but it’d make a good track/event platform someday. also re the thermostat top housing, I found one… a factory RHS shooting outlet with a facto sensor tapped in. will update with pics when it arrives from chch. also a little unrelated, I’ve got the motor on the stand (no oil in it). It’s got a new filter on etc and is waiting to go back in the car basically in a couple months. Should I dump the oil in and give it a wind over each week? I was gonna send some down the spark tubes but being dished pistos I wouldn’t reach the walls without dumping a good 100ml in hahah

Hi Thomas, Have You ever watched this guy on utube, regarding his assessment of all Toyota engines. He has a few videos, & is widely followed. Toyota Engine Assessmets In one He talks about the incredible reliability of the 1NZ-FE & 2NZ-FE engines, fitted to Yaris, Echos, & Corollas. I once looked at the possibility of the 1NZ-FE transplant to a KE series Corolla, after I purchased an Echo, for my daughter. The big problem, is it is an east/west engine, & needs some serious mods to fabricate mounting points. The other problem, is the inability to mate an inline gearbox & clutch, to the 1NZ-FE, without an adaptor; which I don't think still does not exist. I did a couple of Google searches, & strangely came across a thread on RollaClub, back in 2017, where a number of us; weighed in on this subject. I'd forgotten, all about it. You might like to have a read, at this link. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73681-cheap-4ks-maybe-not-anymore/#comment-712069 Cheers Banjo