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My KE30 already has a Toyota Echo radiator in it, with electric fan, which I fitted several years ago. Here's a a comparison photo I took, comparing original & donor Echo radiator, at the time. The Echo radiator, total area is similar, but it's aluminium; & more efficient. The Echo radiator fan covers a much greater area, of the honeycomb, than the aftermarket Chinese one. It also has insulated mounts top & bottom, so I don't use, at all; the original body mounting points on the side of the original KE30 radiator mounts. It works really well. The only reason, I want to replace it, is that the bottom outlet, is on the wrong side, for the K Series engine, & will foul my trigger wheel, attached to the crankshaft pulley. I might just take the Echo radiator to my radiator repair guy; & get him to move the outlet to the other side, & blank off the original outlet. I'll follow that idea up, next week. The rare earth magnets are cylindrical in shape; 4mm dia x 20mm long. The end must to face the Hall Effect device. The interference fit into the hole, plus some Araldite, plus a centre punch dimple on the side of the disk, should make them very secure. P.S. I agree with you about the common use of regular zip-ties, to connect the aftermarket fan assemblies to the core. Both my engine test beds have aftermarket electric fans, mounted that way, with zip ties. However, they are "stationary motors"; not bumping along roads, creating vibrations. Cheers Banjo

That photo I came across; of a beautiful K Series motor preparation, (see earlier post in this thread) has had my mind racing this week. Although the "specialised camshaft sprocket aluminium cover", looks like it is professionally made; I couldn't help but think, that I want one ! So if you can't buy one; could I just make one. I really need all the space in front of the engine, so a bracket that holds the Hall Effect sensor; vertically facing down to the edge of the trigger wheel; would provide the best solution. My "lash up", to prove my concept of a "no missing teeth trigger wheel", using rare earth magnets, with a separate single inboard magnet to create the crankshaft positional signal. However, since then, I've purchased a Haltech double Hall Effect sensor, where the sensor barrel, contains two Hall Effect devices. One detects North pole magnets, & the other detects South pole magnets. Being the same housing means there only needs to be one row of magnets around the aluminium disk edge. I have 35 magnets around the edge, with south pole facing the sensor, & one magnet, with the north pole facing out. This then produces the same result as a 36:1 toothed wheel, from the "South Pole" Hall Effect device. However, the single pulse per revolution, positional sensor signal, can be "OR'd" with the 35 pulses, to produce a very accurate signal, with no missing tooth gaps, for determining high accuracy & resolution, for extremely accurate RPM measurement. Accurate RPM info is most important, as it determines where on the MAP, the ECU takes its preset response curve. The picture directly above, shows two Hall Effect devices, & the single positional indicator magnet is located inboard, in line where the missing tooth is located. The single Haltech Hall Effect sensor I'm now using, simplifies this above depicted arrangement, as it has two individual Hall Effect sensors, both mounted in a common housing, but with two (2) individual, electrical outputs. With a single Hall Effect sensor, with two Hall effect sensors therein; this allows a single row of sensors around the outside of the aluminium trigger disk. 35 off magnets, with "south" pole facing out, & one off magnet with it's north pole facing out. It all works, & I have had the engine actually running like this, in full sequential firing, via the Toyota Echo COPs, I've mounted on the engine; albeit, with only fixed advance of 10-12 degrees. However, the Haltech Dual Hall effect sensor, is longer than the two (2) off single output Hall effect devices depicted above. It looks like this . . . . . That means, the Haltech sensor sticks out horizontally, even further. So my intent is to mount it vertically, off the camshaft sprocket aluminium cover. I've dug out an olde 5K cover, & ground the slight dome off the front of it's external face, so I can mount the 6mm x 120mm thick aluminium disk, which should arrive in a couple of days. It won't look as good as that professional one, depicted on the web photo, earlier in this thread; but it will provide me with a solid & firm base to mount the sensor, as vibration from brackets sticking out in open air, provide a source, to create missed sensor signals, where air gaps are small, & missing positional signals, are not welcome. However, solving one problem, introduces another consideration ! The mounting of the sensor vertically, requires that the rare earth magnet end faces, also meet the Hall Effect sensor face vertically. This is because the magnetic field is stronger; close to the "poles", where it is concentrated. This will require embedding the magnets in "the edge" of the aluminium disk. The face of the Hall Effect sensor is 10mm in diameter. Obviously, that would require a very thick aluminium disk. I've settled for some 4mm rare earth magnets, I have here, & have ordered a 200mm dia. x 8mm thick aluminium disk, to embed them in. The magnets will be 20mm long. The problem is that mounting the magnets in that fashion, exposes them to the centrifugal force of the spinning disk, trying to "shed them" . This does not happen presently, as the magnets are contained securely from centrifugal forces, as they are pressed in from the side of the disk. My technique previously, was to drill the holes in the disk, slightly undersize; & press the magnets in, using a vice. I'll use that technique again, & fill the hole with Araldite, before fitting them. Then laying the disk on it's side, on a hard flat surface, A simple centre punch to the side of the disk, in the middle of where each magnet is embedded; should result in no movement in magnets at all. However, I have seen pictures of professional Aluminium trigger wheels with magnets, so went looking at what others have done. Holley / MSD produce something like this . . . In this case, the magnet face is pointing to the side of the disk, rather than facing the sensor. The answer to this query, is actually in the photo. The sensor only has two (2) wires coming out of it. It is in fact; not a Hall Effect sensor, but a common VR, or variable Reluctance sensor, which requires no power. It is interesting, because the picture of the K Series engine above is also using a single VR sensor, & a ferrous "missing tooth" trigger wheel. I do not favour the VR sensors; although I know manufacturers in the USA & elsewhere, have used them for decades. My objections are two fold. One, the waveform from the VR sensor is a badly formed sinusoidal waveform, & requires extra electronics to "square" it up, so the time information is accurate. Two, "the amplitude" of the waveform, is quite low, at low revolutions; (whilst cranking), & therefore, the very time at which you are trying to start the engine, on a cold Winters morning; the sensor is providing it's lowest amplitude. So when I receive a 200mm dia. x 8mm thick aluminium disc, this coming week, I can then work out, how I'm going to set it up, to drill 36 off 4mm holes, 20mm deep, around the narrow, (8mm) wide edge. P.S. One of the nice & convenient things about my little project; is that I can pop the original dissy in; remove the COPs, & run the engine, whilst lining everything up on the trigger wheel, & checking the Hall Effect sensor outputs on the CRO. Cheers Banjo

Looks very much like it to me, Col. Unfortunately, it was the only photo I could find on the net of that particular engine. Some photos of the six sides of the engine, would provide all the answers. I do have a 5K engine I bought a few years ago, for $ 100. It apparently, had been used in a speedway midget, & would rev to almost 11K. Was really worked over, & one day, I'll put it all together. It does have a couple of odd outlets on the sump, which indicates, it might have been used in a dry sump application, as no matter, how many baffles you place in the sump; in a speedway application, the oil is constantly thrown to the side of the sump. However, I did find a photo on Rollaclub, in a post dating back to 2008, which depicts a TRD alloy dry sump, for a K Series engine. Cheers Banjo