KE25 Nut

Hi everyone. Does anyone know where I can buy New seatbelts for a ke25? I want original looking ones as the plastic buckles look out of place in my opinion. Preferably I'd like to have retractables for the front. Any help or assistance would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Andrew

Yeah cylinder 1 and 4 shouldn't be effected by the mismatched leads. Are you running a standard cam? If not the overlap of intake and exhaust timing could be to blame. As the exhaust valve may not be closed when your intake valve opens and if you have high exhaust pressure this can flow back through the intake. Also ensure you have good spark and ignition coil / ignitor to burn all the fuel that is put in.

I had the same issue of backfiring through the cabs. In my experience 99% of the time it is caused by the timing being too retarded or they are running too lean. I'm getting my twin weber 7k powered rolla tuned very soon will let you know what the tuners thoughts are on the issue. Cheers

If you need to buy a new starter motor try getting a 7k one off a townace van about 1997 - 1999 from memory. they are high torque and are more compact in size than 3k, 4k and 5k ones and come with a heat shild to help protect it from high Exhaust temperatures. can pick them up from a wreckers for about $100. Turns over my 10.8-1 compression 7k with ease.

If you need to buy a new starter motor try getting a 7k one off a townace van about 1997 - 1999 from memory. they are high torque and are more compact in size than 3k, 4k and 5k ones and come with a heat shild to help protect it from high Exhaust temperatures. can pick them up from a wreckers for about $100. Turns over my 10.8-1 compression 7k with ease.

Car sitting extremly high now with all lowering components taken out.

Finally updating this build progress has been slow but finally getting to the final stages of completion. There are alot more goodies to come but keeping it as close to standard as posible to get it passed blue slip. Currunt dilemma is my exhaust is fouling on the passenger foot well on hard revving. So will pull out the extractors and modify them this week.

Cheers philbey That was exactly the response I was after. I've only got a 4k one lying around so I'll use that and just keep an eye out for a 5k reduction starter. Thanks everyone for your input. Much appreciated.

So ideally should I be using a 5k starter or a 7k starter? I'm after whatever would be most reliable as this car is my daily. And are there any difference in the diameter or the number of teeth on the pinion gear? Cheers

Thanks for the input. I'm glad to hear I've done okay by keeping the hydronic lifters. I guess I'll just head to a cam grinder and just let him know what I got a what I want. Another question I I'm curious about is what starter motor should I run. I've read a few people running re-geared 5k starters what are the advantages using this over a 4k or 7k starter. Planning of just using a 4k flywheel and clutch setup.

G'day I'm currently in the middle of doing a 7k engine conversion into my ke25. I know it's a big improvement on power compared to the standard 3k but I'm looking to get abit more power in the mid rpm range. What cam profiles should I be looking for? Lift, duration, advance etc. Or does anyone know at least what they are standard to give me a base to work from? The engine is set up with twin 40mm webers, extractors with a 2" exhaust slightly ported head & manifolds and heavy duty valve springs. I'm also keeping the hydrolic lifters as i have heard mixed stories with converting to solids, will this be an issue with a mild cam? Any help is greatly appreciated as I'm getting sick of google searches!!! Cheers

Hi everyone I'm currently doing a 7K conversion in my KE25. I've been rebuilding the engine and have mucked up the order of the lifters. I'm just wanting to know if there is a specific sequence or weather there are any differences between intake and exhaust lifters? Or am i just being too much of a perfectionist and should just put them in? Each lifter has a different number on the internals of it. These are: KK KY LE FU EX JG L7 LK Any help is much appreciated. cheers Andrew

Even though this project has been on hold for almost the last 12 months. Here are a few more photos of the progress i have had. drivers door prepped and in high fill primer. divers door reunited with the rest of the car. Passenger door now attached and high filled and rubbed back ready for colour. Bonnet in primer and both doors now in undercoat red. I have been painting every pannel with a few coats of red as I go because since I am building this car in my very limited spare time under a temporary carport that I erected to hopefully protect the car from the elements. Due to it sitting in my backyard it does still get the occasional chip and scratch here and there so it gives the car that little bit extra protection without getting me upset if it was the final coat. I Also got bored a few weeks back and put some racing stripes down the side in elecrical tape just to see what it would look like. I think I'm gonna get some big stickers for the stripes made up through a mate of mine as I think I will eventually get bored of them if I paint them on, That way I have the option of removing them. This is one of the latest pics with most of the car in base coat red. only have the front valance and drivers guard to finish knocking the dents out of before I can finally sand back the whole car and paint it one last time. I will post up some more pictures over the coming weeks as I get closer to finishing the bodywork.

where the battery tray used to sit, all metal shaped and welded. After a quick lick of primer and undercoat, view from underneath. after it was all done if i didnt post this you would be hard pressed to know that it was ever cut out and replaced.

After all rust was cut out and replaced caused by battery acid corossion. this was the end result of the drivers side chassis rail and under the battery tray.