capt. crunch

They are 264 duration and 8.15mm lift. They are designed to run on stock set up says Tomei. and yes i did double check to make sure they are in the right side, the intake cam doesn't have a gear for the distributor to run from.

Ok so I got my Tomei Poncams into my bigport 4AGE tonight, and set all the valve clearances to spec. Reassembled the motor and tried cranking it over and it wouldn't start, when it eventually did I had to keep my foot on the gas and keep it at about 1500rpm to keep it running otherwise it would conk out. It also sounds like a unhappy rotary at the moment. So the tomei cams came with two manuals, one's got the cam specs on it and the other has instructions. The instructions say the poncams are designed to run on stock valve timing and valve timing set up isn't required, therefore I set them to the stock set up. I set my ignition timing statically to 10deg BTDC while I had the diagnostic terminal bridged. The spec's page on the other hand says the cams should be set to a 106 - 110 setting which from what I recall is not stock? I can smell a bit of unburnt fuel too so I am leaning towards my timing is way out but I am not sure. I also do not have the cold start system hooked up on my car as the guy who previously built the motor never set it up and I never really saw much need to. What do you guys think it is? the valve timing being at 110- 110 and not 106 - 110 OR is it something to do with my ignition timing? or is it something completely different? Cheers Charl

i think club4ag has a code list on their website for almost every 4age.

can you please send some photos of those brackets mate? thanks bud :wink:

i was about to go on a rampage when i took that chip out of the louvre last night, how could i forget i didnt tighten the bolts yet :bash: owell will have to do until next sunny day or maybe even summer...

ps i can't seem to get my rhs light to sit properly, as if the rad support panel needs to be bent back a bit to give it more space. also sitting them in only leaves you with 1 or maybe 2 bolts to hold them in, did you guys make some brackets for it?

OH SHIT! that's waht i thought dude then i painted the car today, tested it out after reading this thread and took a chip out of the new coat on the louver because of bonnet interference, be it my bonnet wasnt tightened fully and it slid back, that's the position it needs to be in anyway to be nice and flush up front. slanty louver has same shape etc, but that centre section that's raised sits higher on the slanty louvre :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash:

I use Penrite 20 - 50 or 30 - 50 can't remember the last one i threw in... but yes I agree i'll be sticking with it, the container just makes it look legit, magnatec's container makes it look cheap and unlegit.

Yeah, Tomei's prices have dropped significantly too. prices are about $540 US a pair now or here in Aus they go for $800 a pair. with prices like that I couldn't say no, will tell you guys how it goes when I get them in. those Wade's are about 650 a pair now i think as well.

I just want to liven it up a bit around the higher rpm range. I have been doing a lot of snooping around on club4ag and all over the joint really and i think eventually i'll buy a MS2 kit for a bit of fun, i like building kits like that and it'd probably be good experience for my elec eng units at uni. but yes i want to power the engine up a bit, just give it a bit better torque and higher rev power but retain a bit of friendliness when doing the daily drive. The Wade cam I was recommended to use by the company was this one: CamLift Duration Duration Valve Valve V/Lift Phase Adv 0.04 Clr Lift tdc <) intake 349 277 224 0.01 0.339 060 110 Exhaust 349 277 224 0.01 0.339 038 Now i'm still learning the basics about cams so I understand what most of these measurements represent but I don't quite understand how I could judge what is the more superior cam. Which is basically why I am asking what experiences people have had with Wade cams. Hearing amazing things about the Tomei's though and it's a 'plug and play' in the way that it is set up to be optimal using the stock cam gears and stock cam timing marks. I think I might go for the Tomei's just from the reviews I got depending on when this bloke emails me back.

yeah the car isnt exactly my daily so peaky is probably what i'm after. I do have the price on wade's and same with the tomei. never heard of clives. not so much interested in the price but more just what will be a really good performance cam out of those mentioned. i heard the tomei were designed and prototyped with a 4ag on a dyno so i guess they must be very well set up just wondering if anyone else has tried them at all

Looking for some cams around the 264 - 270 deg duration that can run with stock ecu and valvetrain. Has anyone had experience with Wade, Crower or Tomei cams? don't want to go HKS as they are stupid expensive and same with TODA and a few other brands i looked at. Had a good offer on a pair of Tomei poncams and am pretty keen to grab those but was wondering if anyone has experience with Wade cams from Aus or the crower cams (not brian crower).

haha missed it again i did say i would be using the ej20 turbo which is the ej20g. i just didnt want to use a turbo NISSAN motor because its been done to death just like the 4ag has. would be nice but yes like you said its too wide and i don't quite have the skill to do that level of custom work yet and i don't exactly have the work space for it right now either.. i guess ill be going 3sge beams or 3sgte, maybe in a year or so when i got a fair bit saved up for those unexpected expenses and Fk ups that occur in projects haha.

there is a write up in the FAQ section for this by the way.

oh yeah i read that as well, it's hard getting accurate info about this because no one says the same things really.

i'm under the impression the panel in front of the window stays the same... mine seems to fit and i just did the conversion.

oh with the EJ I would of used the EJ20G which is the single turbo version out of an RS legacy, i used to have one of those back in NZ and they were awesome. i just meant the whole SR20DET or CA18DET conversions thing not so much against turbos them selves... i think for now i will get a set of 264 hks cams or maybe the Crower equivelants for my 4age then save some coin and maybe go for the beams swap or 3sgte

i don't really want to go turbs nissan just because its the new 4ag in terms of what everyone's doing... and i do like NA better. maybe i should look at beams 3sge with an altezza box? should be more than enough for now/next year when i have the money to do anything

yeah after posting this and looking for motors to buy i realized it would be far too wide without major mods.. mods that are far beyond my abilities at the moment. My uncle actually built a trike from scratch (own chassis, own shell etc) and even used the auto box from the EJ20G in NZ, currently trying to bring it over here and it looks absolutely insane. Definitely wouldn't be worth the work now that i look at it for now... It's a shame really because I like the EJ's

Just looking at lots of different things i can put in my KE70... Don't particularly want to go for the SR or CA swaps as they are too common. The 3sgte was my next choice to keep it toyota but the price and after market support really doesn't make it very appealing. could do the 13bt swap which would be a bit of fun but its been done to death in NZ and i'm not sure about rotary reliability.. Then when i was standing there today having a gander at my mate's rex i was thinking about how hard it would be getting a EJ20 from a RS or legacy wagon and putting it in the KE70 I have... What gearbox would I need to run for it and has anyone else done this yet i would be interested to see what it came out like?

i'm playing with an idea to fill a fairly badly dinged section on the rear door... i was going to clean and roughen the area to be repaired and remove the door from body, then tape a well around the mark and just mix some fiberglass resin and pour it in, will be quite easy to shape it right by hand... any thoughts?

yeah i'm worried about that lip too, for the first primer coat i just taped it and used a stanley to cut it tight against the lip and it doesnt seem like it left a lip but i should inspect closely

is it really worth the effort? I think i'll just end up taping them and painting, it would be so much quicker

me (OP) was talking exactly about the ones that blueksev and parrot were talking about. cheers boys i will give it a go tonight and see how i go. I took the windows out completely so it shouldnt be too hard to access. i noticed there is a tab on the outside, do you put hte screw driver there and lever outwards?

sorry its a ke70.. I've pulled the gutter trims off, and all the trims around the windscreens no worries, i'm referring to the little chrome lips that go along the doors at the base of the windows. i think i will just tape them up.