crunk81us

even has the chrome strip on the wheel arch... i reckon it is urs mate.

i have this mug also :)

did you end up doing this? Thread revival haha

hey, I have to have a look at my fuel sender too, apparently its open circuit.. I have a few shells around so if you get stuck for a sender hit me up.. cars are out near dalby, I'm at gowrie junction ;) could it be a bad body earth? bloody 40 year old electrics :down:

ke70dave, I have a fairly new set of monroe gas inserts.. I'm sure there is much better stuff out there.. but thats what i have, I guess i could just try a 6kg set and see how it feels. altezzaclub, that is some interesting info.. thanks GJM85, if it wasnt for the 60000kms on them i might be interested.. what engine do you have in yours?

So my poor stock struts are having issues coping with the added weight of the 4age, and the abuse I hand it at events. I currently have lowered kings in it. I'm looking at doing a coilover sleeve kit, but don't know what spring rate to go for. Not even the slightest idea.. 5 kg? 7kg? 8kg? I don't know what the current springs are rated at so I can't even make a guess. Anyone have some idea?

So the camber changes and rear swaybar netted me a good 1.5-2 seconds a lap at my cotton. Down to a 50.08 second lap. Would have gone quicker but a leaking brake line ended my day. Very happy. :) Now I think I need better front shocks and/or springs.

I don't know what it was off, maybe a ke70? i welded a couple of brackets to the bottom of the diff, drilled a couple of holes in the floor, and mounted with couple of links and rubbers off an old swaybar i had lying around. I put a big square washer either side of the floorpan (about 2 inches across) and it works ok for now. I will do something a bit more permanent later. this was my first attempt at a sway bar, it was pretty simple, and works great. :)

Ke20

So I was having issues getting around tight corners with my 2 way t series lsd, I added some camber and toe out to the front which helped quite a bit. Then I custom fitted a swaybar I had lying around to the rear axle. OMFG!! It is amazing! I can turn corners, I can drift, I can Scandinavian flick.... High speed corners with constant throttle with no understeer. With power on oversteer. I feel like I can actually drive this car now. I was starting to doubt my abilities, but after the new 170rwhp 4age went in, I have been having issues. I guess the chassis wasn't up to the grunt. Very very happy man right here! The combination of camber, toe out and rear bar.. Mwah ;) And thanks to Coln72 for the help with camber. :)

wouldnt the single main leaf twist like all F..K under load? I get axle tramp with all of the standard leafs with the short bottom one flipped and put on top of the pack.. I think you would have to do a 4 link to make it work?

Not quite, I try and squeeze every last tenth of a second outta my car when its on the track.. that extra notch or 3 on the handbrake makes all the difference in the pedal and brake bias.. I think i might be needing to change the master and maybe add vacuum assist and a bias valve. Would prefer a full race pedal box though lol

I have adjusted them up.. But i wear them quickly ;) haha hit the nail on head there..

Ok so I had a ta22 T50 (forward shifter) box behind my 4age, and i am part way thru switching to an ae71 (rear shifter) box.. I have switched the tailshaft yoke, cut the floor and got the box all bolted up. it all works. and I LOVE the new position of the shifter where i can actually reach it! BUT my handbrake is pretty much touching the shifter in 2nd and 4th gears. Now this might not seem like much of an issue (unless you like doing handbrakies..which i do.. but thats not what I'm worried about) BUT i use my handbrake sort of like a rear bias adjuster and brake pedal hardener.. make sense? I notch it up until i can just feel the shoes touch then back it off one click. Then i go cut a sick lap or two.. without doing this my foot is halfway to the floor before i get pedal and at that point all i get is front brakes.. (As I'm writing this i think i can see what i need to do.. :( i need to spend more $ on my bloody brakes don't i?) My current brakes are the absolute biggest you can fit under the 13 inch wheels in the front (250mm vented) and big drums on the T series diff in the back.. only running the standard master. maybe theres something easy i can do to get the pedal up and bias towards the rear without changing much else??? (easier than relocating the handbrake?) sigh. every time you do something on your car you find 2 more things to give you grief.. whyyyyy? lol

i have an autometer monster in my hliux (ghey and i didnt put it in)... anyways, it is super fast. it is twice as fast as the factory unit in the dash.. (why is there a monster tach in an auto V6 4x4 hilux? f'd if i know!)

I have decided that the first car engine I personally rebuild is NOT going to be this one that I have poured lots of dollars into parts.. I am getting a very competent engine builder to do it for me. Its just not worth the worry and the second guessing of doing it myself. Also I have next to no spare time. Thanks everyone for your input and valuable information, it will be passed onto the builder. I will do a rebuild on one of these myself one day.. just not this one.

question.. If i was to buy a spanking new crank, is there then any need to check the bearing clearances? or is it then just a matter of bolting it all together? I have ACL race for mains and rods.

Bang lightly? I had to belt the crap out of mine lol

Omg I just read that link about the head studs. Thankyou so much! I think that would literally make me cry if that happened to me. I will check that hole and make sure the oil is flowing!

Engine hasn't been mocked up yet. I do have the spec sheets for the pistons. But I'm about 400 kms away and not headed back for a while. No pics of the ports, the head is still all wrapped up atm, and I don't really want to unwrap it until everything else is ready. I will try and remember to get pics of it all. The pistons are advertised as 12:1, yes I know there's a lot more to determining the actual ratio than reading the box the pistons come in. But it is easily visible that they will project much further into the chamber than the standard smallport slugs.

Wow. Now there's some information. Thanks so much for the effort! New crank 550? Now that's tempting! Engine was running no knocks or rattles. Had a leaky rear main seal. I've also been tossing up whether to build the engine myself. I'm pretty good at mechanics and know the basics.. Been quoted 1200 bucks to build it. Not including any machining or balancing etc. but this guy has a 7 sec dragster he built himself.. So I guess he knows what he's doing. I wld hate to build it myself and make a stupid mistake. I also know that a big shopping list doesn't always equal big numbers or a reliable engine. So I'm leaning towards putting the extra $ towards having it built by a professional. And just for full disclosure.. My engine is probably going to have cost me more than the total build of my car so far. LOL!!

doing COP conversion too..

I'm not too fussed if it becomes an interference engine, would be nice if it didnt.. the cp pistons have large recesses in them for oversized valves and high lift cams. as my cams are only 8.6mm lift and the majority of my compression comes from the pistons.. i am keeping fingers crossed that it will be ok. yeah I know right ;) I can't wait :D also trying to find a quad throttle setup, I have a complete silvertop intake, so i guess i might have to pay the crazy price from ttt for a small chunk of alloy ;)

ALL brand new gaskets... I was trying ascertain which other gaskets i need and which i can use gasket goo for.. I have found a bottom end kit with main seals, pump seals etc. the head already has all new parts and gaskets. I think any others i should be able to use goo for. Also found myself acl race mains as well as rod bearings. for those interested my parts list (ordered and already have): all going in a smallport.. camtech 290 degree intake and exhaust cams hd valve springs fully rebuilt, ported and port matched head and intake toda cam pulleys (only used part in build.. in great condition though) HKS (from memory) timing belt 12:1 cp pistons spool rods acl race bearings arp head studs, rod bolts, flywheel bolts lightweight flywheel 5 puck clutch trd .8mm hg ttt lightweight pulley there will be other bits and pieces like water pump etc but thats the boring stuff ;) all will be machined honed and balanced. not totally decided but looking at microtech with race dash will be running e85 and dependant on clearances and cc of heads etc, hoping to machine to close to 13:1 comp. Also hoping it will stay a non interference engine thanks to the large valve recess in the cp pistons.

no i have a brand new one. I have a running engine in my car while i build my good engine with ALL new parts :)