crunk81us

I have a g series Hilux diff centre with an air locker to go into my ke20.. Looking for a workshop to cut down a Hilux diff and make it 4x114.3. Anyone know somewhere preferably in tba but can travel to Brisbane for the right shop.

my quickest run at oakey. note the clutch slip.. synchros are dodge too which makes my gear changes slow :/

Life is busy. Houses, cars, work, phew. big start to 2013! Anyway heres an update: Last we saw paint.. I have it running nicely now, have changed the diff temporarily to a borgy (standard ke20, getting a tailshaft was a &^$&%$ nightmare!! thanks again mickey!) because i needed the 114.3 stud pattern which was already installed, not to mention the bigger brakes. installed some rear springs that had the top leaf flipped and some green kyb/koni.. don't remember.. Have installed the indicators, and mirrors etc, mounted the battery box in the boot, and mounted surge tank and pumps to the spare tyre well. Picked up a set of cheapy SAAS seats from supercrap.. not too bad, fit the shoulders nicely but the lumbar support is non existant and the side bolsters are too wide.. one is mounted, other is getting mounted today (hopefully) carpets have been cut and put in (then removed to fit seats lol) and the hoodlining, and cheap recovered dash is in. made up a gauge section out of some ally plate i had lying around. I took it to Oakey street sprints on may 5th, as a test day (only been driven very sensibly around a (private) block) and on and off the trailer a couple of times previously. With an open diff, no drive AT ALL thru the corners (and therefore no throttle steering) i managed to take 3rd in class.. JUST! by .16 of a second to a ke25 with lsd, and a 20 valve.. :lovin: oil cooler .. couple of teething problems: Thrust bearing noise is constant, and clutch slips a bit into each gear (good on the drivetrain not good on times lol) I think i need to adjust the slave cylinder.. read: grind some of the shaft off. the exhaust is rubbing under full load, and the bolts came loose on the extractor collector flange which is before the o2 sensor which caused it to lose power in the last run. needs a wheel alignment other than that it ran beautifully! For a $500 ebay engine and a diy shed build I couldnt be happier.. well I could be, and will be when: I have my hilux 4:1 diff shortened with an ARB air locker and discs (to fit under 13' rims ??? help appreciated here!! ) A better sway bar/suspension setup to counter my body roll. better front brakes (to go with the rear discs) and last.. yes last.. more power..... I will be aiming for 170+ flywheel HP so far on my shopping list is: 298-304 degree cams, adjustable sprockets and shims etc reqd for the lift. haltech sprint 500 tidy up of my smallport head ITB (silvertop setup paid for and about to be shipped) lightened flywheel (no hp here..) compression 10:5-11:1 depends on what is in the engine already (was told it had forgies and i think i might believe it) if they are and they are ok but not high enough compression i will be shaving the head. probably some rod and head bolts etc and all the obligatory new belts etc. pics coming...

Been thinking about the measurements and it is 20mm offset to one side.. I believe the suspension would move more than 40mn lol it is quite stiff tho and probably doesn't move around a lot. Feels like no suspension at all sometimes :/

Looking at a hilux diff for my 20. It is shortened to 1320mm with skyline axles and brakes, which sounds great. But. The pinion flange is offset 40mm to one side. I'm fairly sure the tunnel has the room for the shaft to fit. But is it going to cause dramas for the UJ's?

its amazing how long it takes when you have full time work and family commitments etc.. if I was single and didnt work so hard i would have it done in no time..

lol I did the same thing.. bought a rough 20, started cutting rust and dicking around.. found a better one, started on that. found an even better one that needed very little work, and have got that 75% complete. Just got it painted, a self installed 4age running with a 5 speed. now its mostly fiddly bits and interior to go :)

So I picked up a set of extractors, 4-1 that fit perfectly (thanks Mickey) Getting a hoodlining made up, and have tidied up a dash pad which i will have recovered at the same time. Although I wanted to do as much as possible on this myself, I am glad I got the paint done.. I simply would not have had the time to get it finished in time for the june mod plate rule changes. and it looks sweet! Getting down to smaller bits and pieces now. Have ordered rubbers, indicators, mirrors, I have the carpet ready to go in. Chasing a good bonnet trim (yeh i know.. arent we all!) otherwise i will just tidy up my best one. yet to get tyres (for rwc) would love to borrow a set ;) any toowoomba-ites with some stockos in gc lying around.. 13's in 114.3 x4 ??

been a while.. so it picture time.. I sold another car which cleared some funds.. so i decided to get a quick paint job done on it.. (I have decided to rwc. mod plate and rego it) Have a few more bits and pieces to sell to get it finished and on the road/track.. The only real bad section of rust other than spare wheel well, Both were cut and repaired: First sighting since paint :D on the trailer headed home HOME!

cheers will check them out

lol i skim read it too :) and sorry Khane no idea..

don't know if different states have changed as well as qld, but the checks should be cheaper.. like $9. REVS is no more not sure of the new name.. is it 'vcheck'?

Ok I have found a FWD bigport (well my bro did) Its most likely seized. Are there bits i should take? Its mostly complete, injectors,, manifolds, etc. missing timing belt and cover, spark plugs and oil cap (from memory) Should i grab the head? I have a smallport that one day may get a turbo.. I will be grabbing the heater outlet from the back of the head (its the thin one!) anyone want anything off it? or got the $ its worth in scrap metal to take the lot? I would hate to see it go to waste :(

yeh.. who knew a half throttle clutch dump would do that to a 155 r 12 :oops:

I have a 2 x standard open, 1x welded diff centres to use up, and 10+ stocko skinny rubber to destroy. I hope the diffs last the tyres out haha After that.. i havent made plans. I have seen a few combos, not sure on the right setup for me yet. Ideally a strong but not too heavy lsd extractors are my next hurdle to a proper test drive.

Backed out of the shed, thoroughly cleaned, and driven back into shed. I accidentally did a small burnout.. This thing is gonna move! :D Mostly masked for some paint.

Cooling system was straight forward thanks to some flexible silicone hose (top hose), and 2 silicone bends, 2 thermostat adapters as joiners with sensors in them. The flexible hose is cool!

Pics!

people actually do that ^ i was thinking about it the other day.. would be good for race car repairs too ;) does it kinda waterproof it too? keep it dry.. slower rust?

haha no it is definately not easy, or fast. It helps that i understand circuit diagrams, and managed to find most of the info i needed beforehand) people on here have been helpful too.. thanks guys! oh and my previous clutch woes were fixed with a new slave! works perfectly. Driving it seems so close now!

its alive!!! Click for vid..

update.. just finished fuel system and wiring, and was testing the fuel pump. 'crank, 3 sec of pump..crank 3 sec pump and repeat 10 times'... and it just started, no cough,no splutter, and idled away. still need extractors for the o2 sensor that i think is making it hesitate a bit when revved? have some pics and vid to upload later. right now i am playing with my car a bit more :D

make sure your calipers arent stuck, and put a bottle of good fluid through it. :)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/290830310550?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_500wt_1182

250 for the pair of guards, 250 for shipping.