crunk81us

did that one. thanks :)

Not sure on engine mounts yet.. I'll probably weld something up. I have a mig now :evil:

So I am attempting to use as much of the original bits as i can to keep costs down. I have modified the fwd themostat housing to fit just in front of where the engine mounts should be. fwd water pipes: cut flanges cut original rubber hoses, dummy mount thermostat housing. had to spin the lower radiator hose section 180 degrees

i found a ta22 celica with what i believe is the same colour, smurf blue. waiting on the bloke to get back to me on the code. Mine has no paint code on the tags :(

^ that makes sense

Always wanted a ke20 with a 4age.. so i bought this: (I removed fwd accesories, gearbox,) and this: (Removed guards, bonnet, Pulled 3k and box out, labelled cables, degreased and moved everything out of the way of my bigger donk) Pulled the clutch off, almost new exedy, installed spigot bearing removed wiring loom, manifolds and started nutting out the weirdo cooling system

Oh wait.. it is there i missed it on the first 2 reads lol (dumbass) "If yours is the 212mm Clutch, you will have to buy an AE92 100KW 4AGE 212mm clutch kit (also you will have to buy a throwout bearing from an AE71/AE86, as the AE92 clutch kit throwout bearing is completely different)so i can use the clutch on it (ae92) and buy a throwout bearing. :D yay

yes i've read that one, it says there are 2 different diamtere clutches but doesnt mention whether fwd/rwd are the same. I have a great fwd one and don't want to spend money on a new one if i don't have to. and nothing on the starters.. I guess i can wait til i get the t40/50 and bolt it up and see what happens. was just hoping someone knew off the top of their head for sure it would/wouldnt work. I think i can probably get the starter bolted in with some minor mods if need be. (grind/drill a hole into the bellhousing and tap a thread/weld a nut on the back of the steel plate)

got 4age from an ae92 I have got most of the info i need to do the conversion into my 20. Plenty of info on ecu, wiring, intakes, etc.. just can't find the relevant info on clutch and starter. simple question, can i use the fwd starter and or clutch on a t50 rwd box?

do i just take a panel to a paint shop and they can match it or?..

I have a ke20 in sky blue I am fairly sure its the original colour. I want to keep it that colour. i can't find it I have been looking for about half an hour now :/ I have attached a pic of it. i have to repaint the front guards and doors. I have found sheets of colours for this era but it isnt there.

Ahh yeh ur mud map for the fuel system made it all make sense. too easy. old 3k comes out today!!

I like.. about to do the same.. well similar.

yes but the bonnets are about the same.. just trying to give an idea of the difference..

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/gallery/image/665-sandros-1971-ke25-coupe-radrollaz-club/ flat front (metal grill tho, mine is plastic) http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/594/img23374if.jpg pointy front. see the middle of the front of the bonnet is pointy.. and the grill is changed in shape to suit

Well as the title says.. Just wondering, because i have one, but always preferred the late pointy front ke20's.. so i am looking to sell the flat front one or part it out.. for example, what would the grill, headlight surrounds, garnishes and tail lights be worth? or is the car worth something whole to the right person?

i don't know stall converters.. this will be my first automatic build. I have decided on stage2 (manualized), corvette servos, and a service on the th700. not sure about stally, thinking i don't want it too high in such a light car, as carbonboy said, getting the power down will be trick, might exaggerate wheel spin.. but i will have huge fat race tyres... I will be welding the original diff for 'testing' (fun till it breaks) but thinking a ute axle, like ba ute, or holden ute, lsd preferably. will give me more track width at the rear. gonna look for a 5 stud conversion for the front. i suppose a high ratio diff would be good too..

don't laugh.. have you tried egay? i think i saw some on there a while back. I have some discs on a ke20.. not sure what they are though. ? I am planning a strut upgrade so i am willing to part with them.

Power to Weight: 263 bhp/ton 0-60: 4.4 0-100: 11.3 60-100: 6.9 1/4 Mile ET: 12.85 1/4 Mile Terminal: 106 Dragstrip 1/4 Mile ET: 12.65 Dragstrip 1/4 Mile Terminal: 110 and lets say i will chip it, have CAI and unrestriced exhaust..

RWD - 180bhp & 850kg Power to Weight: 215 bhp/ton 0-60: 4.6 0-100: 13.5 60-100: 8.9 1/4 Mile ET: 13.60 1/4 Mile Terminal: 100 Dragstrip 1/4 Mile ET: 13.40 Dragstrip 1/4 Mile Terminal: 103 yeah real slow hey..

lmao.. not that kind of tranny yep 180ish hp and easy to make more with simple mods..

a concern i do have is making it handle with 100+ extra kg under the bonnet, plus whatever extra the tranny will weigh.. cross that bridge later ;)

Yes harness and roll cage will be high on the list of priorities, and i'll keep an eye out for the t series diff (i have a few scrap metal mates that crush whole cars like that) or any hilux etc diff.. i'll probably try a cut and shut unbalanced tailshaft (with loops) to get it running, then take that to a shop and get a real one made.

Update.. picked up that vr commy for 200 bucks! he got desperate for cash. so 3.8 v6 in ke20 it is. i would like a manual, but they're expensive, so i guess i'll see what i can do with the auto. Both of my ke20's are manuals, so i am thinking i will try and cut the tunnel from the vr, and weld it into the 20. so.. $2000 - $200 = $1800.. but i reckon i can sell what is left of the commy for more than 200 lol :)

ok so i have found a vr v6 with 105000kms on it complete car minus front struts. $600. still considering whether i want that engine plus it's auto :/ that would leave me $1400.. think i would prefer a ca18det tho. i wont be buying a halfcut. I will buy a whole car, damaged or not, take what i want and part out the rest. I will get it done in less than $2k.