Infy

So bit of an update, Finally pulled my finger out and fixed the brakes up with the new pads. ordered the window dividers and a bailey channel seal through rare spares so with any luck that should arrive sometime next week or so. car is off stands and now sits firmly on the ground, need to get a couple more things for roadworthy. Seat belt stalk to suit ke35 for passenger front possibly rear also Flasher Can Wire up a horn button as I can't be bothered trying to figure out why the steering wheel one won't work Possibly change the drivers headlight Get the bastard started So not a great deal left to do to finally get her on the road. My twin SU's arrived today need to take a look at them and organize to pick up some extractors then get the rest of the exhaust made to suit, but this can wait until after she is running and registered. If anyone could help out on where to obtain or has any of the things I need please PM me.

Damn, I was hoping I had more time to sort this out before then. Guess I'll come and get some inspiration instead.

Cheers, I think the colour works pretty well, not normally a fan of green, although I did have a olive green mk 2 escort. I think I will have to take a trip yo rare spares once she is on the road. Bloke from work gave me the idea to try and clutch start it, means I have to fix the breaks first then give that a try. If she starts then I'll look into a new high torque starter. I've seen a few of the ebay listings, it's just hard to be sure that you are buying the right rubber when there is two called almost the same thing. How often do the rollaclub guys go out driving?

The motor is back together, and back in the car. Not the best rebuild ever but it's better than where it was. Unfortunately, I still can't get the bastard to fire up.. Pulled #1 plug out and I have spark, there is fuel going to the carby, but it is still cranking slower than I think it should... I'm at the point where I need to ask for help, because electrics is not my thing. Anyone in Brisbane that would be willing to lend a hand it would be much appreciated. Cheers

Hey Everyone, Figured I would start a build thread, considering it has turned into more of a build than just a buy and drive. So I've already started a thread which a few of you have already thankfully helped me with, but I believe starting this thread (WITH PICS!) will be a more suitable place for everything. This is how I bought it, As some of you had seen the ads you will recognize these photos. Seller informed me all it would need was the water pump put on, tail shaft installed, gearbox oil put in, and a radiator and hoses. After it got delivered i promptly got it up on stands and started on the small list to finish her off. And that's when i noticed that the lowness wasn't from proper springs Installed everything, put the battery in to crank her up and it was just slow turning over.... fun begins. Got a sparky mate around to help with electrics because that isn't my forte, redid the negative terminal to ground, and checked the resistance of the wires to the starter and engine ground. All checked out, shorted out the starter to double check that all seemed clear, but decided to pull it off and get it checked out anyway. Wasn't the starter.... After a bit more advice I pulled the motor out, and started to tear it down to see why it was binding up and so hard to turn over. As soon as I pulled the flywheel and put the motor on the stand it loosened up a lot, could even turn it by hand, but would still bind up a tiny amount. Flywheel Couldn't really see any marks on the wheel itself, very small amount of the rear main seal was scored but nothing major. Whilst I've got the motor out and pulled down, i figured I'd get the cam done, decided to get a tighe 154 grind and the lifters refaced Also getting new big end and main bearings, thrust washers etc. Today I pulled the struts out to change the springs over. Old vs New While I had the wheels off, checked the brake pads and got another lovely surprise... Thankfully I happen to have Girlocks on the front, So VN rear disk pads work in these? This is a massive first post, but I was putting off writing it. I've also got twin SU's on the way Have some extractors to get from a mate from the 3k off my old ke30 2door sedan that is still sitting on stands... There is a couple things that I'm missing that I could use some help with if anyone knows where to look. I need a passenger side front seat belt stalk looks like this and also a rear drivers side. Also if anyone knows where to get the coupe weatherstrip and the strip between the windows? And that is pretty much up to date for now, I was hoping to have the motor rebuilt this weekend, but the bearings are all down in NSW and need to be posted up here, so hopefully I can have her on the road in the next two weeks. sorry for the wall of text, future updates should be smaller.

It was only turning over by putting a spanner on the crank pulley and giving it a turn, and only as far as you would turn the pulley.. I'm not exactly a small guy, and it took a fair amount to get it to turn.. Anyway, a bit of good(ish) news, got the motor on the stand and pulled the sump off (not before having a lifter fall out, then turning the motor over to take them all out) Once the sump was off, I tried to turn it over again just by grabbing the fan, and lo and behold it spun as easily as it should, slight resistance but easy to turn. The only thing I could think of is there were a couple of lifters that were a little harder to remove, not stupid, could still take them out by hand without tools, but they didn't just fall out either. So whilst it's apart ill double check everything, probably get a new cam, cam chain and tensioner and shim the oil pump spring.

Really have no idea, the corrosion isnt that bad, but it did have a couple mm of carbon built up inside the combustion chambers and on the pistons, but the bores look ok. Whilst ive got the motor out, any recommendations? Whats a decent cam/ grind worth roughly?

So finally got the motor out, bent a couple bellhousing bolts along the way. Clutch is brand new (previous owner had said as much) just need to remove the flywheel to mount the engine on the stand. I'd rather not use another motor that I can't be sure of, so ill try stripping this down further and see if i can't figure out whats causing it to be so tight, still can't turn it over by hand even with the clutch off. Aside from that I've already invested in new gaskets etc. Any tips would be appreciated.

So I've ended up taking the head off. Everything seems to be fine so far, small amounts of corrosion in the water jackets but nothing you wouldn't expect after 40 years. and nothing so bad as to suspect anything wrong. Even with the head off the motor is still hard to turn over by hand, I've tried to oil the bore a little, there isn't any scoring, just the usual carbon build up you would expect. So that leaves me with either the bottom end being shot, or what? the gearbox might still be an issue? although I don't hear any noise while turning it over by hand. Mind you I'm only getting about 1/8th of a turn each go. It's not seized, it still turns, just requires more effort than I would think necessary... I really don't want to have to pull the bottom end apart..

I've recharged the battery already to double check that, the starter I've both shorted it whilst on the car, and taken it off and bench tested it, also checked the leads from the battery etc. so I pulled the spark plugs again, and tried to turn it by hand using both the fan and the crank pulley, and was still tight to turn. I took the rocker cover off, and turned it to make sure the valve train wasn't binding, and it all seems to be moving well enough.. so before I pull the head off, could the gearbox/pressure plate etc. be a possible issue? Apparently the clutch was replaced prior to me purchasing it, so if I just backed off the bellhousing and tried to turn it again? Thanks for the help.

Awesome, Thanks for the help guys. The 4k that's been put in appears to be missing that control valve, among other things. Unfortunately this little problem has to go onto the back burner, as I've been trying to get the engine to crank over (which i figure i shouldn't need that return for). Engine only cranks over slowly, no where near normal crank speed to start, Brand new battery, had the starter motor checked, put in and checked the ground to the chassis and engine block, also checked the positive to the starter motor. Pulled the spark plugs out, and the motor would crank faster, but still what i think isn't fast enough, put the plugs back in, back to slow crank. Any ideas? I originally bought the corolla as i was hoping it wouldn't need much to get it on the road, so far it's full of gremlins Thanks.

Ah, awesome, it appears I'm currently missing the charcoal canister then. Thanks!

Hey guys, So I've bought my second corolla, a 1974 ke35, and the previous owner has put a 4k in because his wife blew up the 3k. Now when I bought it, it hasnt been completed, I've got what appears to be a fuel return line? Which I thought these cars didn't have. I'm probably mistaken, but if anyone could be so kind as to tell me where this is meant to connect to that would be great.

So haven't posted in awhile (although I'm beginning to doubt it's being read anyway) Have received everything I've been waiting on, and picked up the block, crank, pistons, and head from the shop yesterday, so all I really need now is to decide on cams and associated gear and to start to reassemble I've gotten the volvo lca (wishbone) to fit with a slight modification, so if i can find or buy a bearing to use on the strut with my ke30 top hats I hopefully should be able to use the entire front assembly as well.

Been really busy with work recently so not much has happened in the way of actual work. But i went and got the engine mount kit from Jordanrolla (thanks mate) on the way home from his place, about 500m down the street saw an e-type convertible and a db6 parked at a cafe... also picked up a t50 and some other things (thanks ali) dropped off the block head crank and pistons, they should be done friday week, received the rebuild kit last friday so that will be all good to go when its back. this weekend should be able to get a bit of time to look at the front struts and pulling the diff etc from the volvo.

Bought a Bosch 070, malpassi rising rate fuel reg, cometic 1mm metal headgasket and arp rod bolts tonight, still looking into what sort of cams i should run. pull the engine down further, removed water and oil pumps, will send it off sometime next week for some cleaning and machining. looking at a T50 this weekend also.

My ARP head studs arrived today, still waiting on the rest of the rebuild kit and yet to send the block and head off for some work Got a quote from a rebuild shop close by (wynnum) that will acid bath, deck and hone the block, clean and shave the head for less than $250 so ill be sending that in to get done hopefully either tomorrow or friday next week. I had an awesome idea on the way to work yesterday and after some research it seems it has been done before albeit not as often as i would imagine, I've decided to use a volvo dana 30 diff out of a 240 model, which coincidentally i have a 240 model in the driveway (my housemates, other half of this build) so will be pulling that probably this weekend. after doing some measuring, it seems that with a bit of modification i may be able to use the volvo front strut and wishbone assembly also. I'm hoping i can make it work as that would make the build a bit cheaper and easier on keeping all the stud patterns the same (5x 108) Plus being 4pot calipers would be cool. I'll also be picking up Jordanrolla's mounting kit this weekend.. Well that's where it's at as of now, will update on the weekend. cheers

thinking of ordering some cams while the engine is all apart, probably nothing too crazy, only running a t28 so any ideas? was thinking around 264...

so ordered arp head bolts and a rebuild kit today. so hopefully that arrives shortly and i can begin work again. I also read that the reason for the xt130's is a larger stub axle so i guess ill probably try and track down a set somewhere.

thanks for the info jono, is it possible to use the cressida hubs for the break upgrade on the standard ke30 struts or only on the xt130's? if so i'll probably order them this weekend. does anyone have any recomendations for rebuild kits for the 4agte? the bores look pretty good so maybe just a quick hone, but would like a new water and oil pump + bearing kit, gasket kit and headstuds. i've been told that a series 3 rx7 rear diff might be a better option than having to cut down a hilux diff. any idea if it would be worthwhile or too much effort for not enough gain over the hilux? cheers brent

So finally after about 2 years, work has started on my 74 ke30 I initally bought the car off here as a long term project, with a massive build in mind of a 3sgte beams, 6 speed etc. but after not doing anything at all for 2 years, getting into a better position financially work has started with the assistance of my housemate. picked up a 4agte a couple weeks ago and have torn that down mostly and looking into rebuild kits (didn't need it, just peace of mind). so far have pulled engine, box, front struts, and diff. most of the car was apart when i got it with the majority of interior parts there, there is very little rust which I'm happy about, 3 small holes in 3 corners of the rear windshield, a couple of small strips around the boot seal have gone, some in the spare wheel well and a bit of surface rust here and there, nothing major. so i went to the local wreckers after doing alot of research on break upgrades etc, looking for xt130 struts, hilux diff etc and of course there is nothing to be found, however i have seen that t3 do a coilover sleeve kit for the ke30 and was wondering if anyone had any experience with these? (and the camber tops) and why more people wouldnt use them?? so I'm basically at the point of having everything stripped out, and searching for new bits to put in (and pay for) i'll be doing the majority of work myself, only small amounts of fabrication work i'll try to get help with (no welder here and havn't done it in years) so any advice would be great! now for the pics, starting with how i got it to where its at now (no pics without struts and diff yet only pulled them out tuesday) the rust spots removing the 3k the 4agte as we got it stripping so far thats it! any tips or parts pm me thanks for looking Brent

Also the rx-8 produces 177kw in manual trim, and it is damn hard to make any more power out of them n/a. A race pipe full exhaust de-cat will only net around 8hp at the wheels (at a cost of around 2.5k on the rx-8), and there is almost nothing to be gained by re-tuning, maybe another 5hp atw if your lucky. Also a forced induction conversion will net you approximately 200rwkw but as the compression is around 10:1 (i think) you can really only put 8psi through them safely (and that all comes at a cost of around 12k). Don't get me wrong, my rx-8 has a touch over 115k kms and it still runs like the day i got it at 64k kms. They are a very smooth engine to drive and the 6 speed can take a bit of a beating. But personally, as i was also looking at doing a rotor conversion into a ke30 2door i'd be looking for a series 5 or 6 turbo engine, as the parts a much easier to obtain and aftermarket gear is off the shelf and power is just a boost t away. My 2c Brent

Hey mate, After reading the thread it seems your still on your P's so unfortunately for you in Queensland that means no engine conversions whatsoever as they require a mod plate with a LA code. sorry to burst your bubble mate but you will have to stick with the 4ac unless you could convince the department of transport that the 4age (albeit a 16v was available) was originally available in that chassis and as such would not require a mod plate as said earlier it would come under a replacement engine, personally i wouldn't like your chances of getting away with a 20v but it wouldn't be impossible. Either way, good luck with it :) don't get discouraged, you have 3-4 years to build a great engine :)