Onikage
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Posts posted by Onikage
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A 2.25 was better than a 2.5 around town in my VR, even frequent passengers said it felt more torquey. It is worth noting that VR's don't run ecotecs but have the same capacity motor, so results on a VS should be similar, unless you put some money into the engine, and made it need a 2.5 to breathe well.
Where are you going to mount the 3rd reverse light? Why not just put brighter globes (within reason) in the factory reverse light spots?
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You need more mates with big backyards.
Sadly none I know have spare undercover area, any present rust on the car would love the exposure to rain.
I rent a storage unit where they are ok with me working on my cars there.
It costs me $100 per week but it is big for those dollars. It could hold 4 cars if it weren't for all my parts.
Perhaps try storage places in semi industrial areas and the like they are usually more flexible with this issue. Mine is unusual in that it is in the.city but they allow it
I like the sound of that option, I may ask around and see if any local places have a relaxed stance toward clients working on their cars.
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Welcome to rollaclub!
You could either sell your AE92 and buy an AE93, which has the 4AGE motor, and the close ratio C52 gearbox, which is noticeably zippier than the 4AFC c50 combo you have. Or buy a crashed AE93 and swap the running gear in.
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I am toying the idea of purchasing another vehicle in the coming months, however I do not have sufficient space to keep it 'off street' at my current residence, so I would be looking to store it offsite.
Off street parking/storage is a must. Ideally, I would want to hire a garage/shed so I can keep the car safe from the elements, and from unsavory people, hiring a parking space in a parking lot may also work, or even a storage facility, but I am not really keen on the latter two as working on the car would either be very difficult, or even prohibited.
I assume a few of you have cars stored off your residence, what sort of 'storage' do you use, what sort of monthly rates do you pay, and how did you end up finding the place?
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With commodore catbacks, all premade 2.5" ones are pretty much the same, in that they use straight through mufflers, choice seems to come down to what tone you want.
Redback seems to be the common choice, depending on who you talk to, Lukey is either slightly deeper or slightly raspy, best bet is to ask around for audio clips, or even ask people to take for a spin in their car with an aftermarket exhaust.
If you will be going custom made, you have the pick of a 2.25" stright through system to maintain low end torque and driveability, with marginal sacrifice, if any in the top end (an exhaust fitter I spoke too reckons a 2.25" striaght through on a V6 commodore will easily outflow what the motor can put out in terms of airflow) or a 2.5" to go a bit louder, and possibly have a bit of top end, also is a good choice if you plan to cam the motor later on.
The bare minimum I would recommend is a centre straight through offset muffler, and a hotdog at the rear to minimise drone, you could even run a straight through muffler at the back too to reduce drone further and make the exhaust quiet until you sink the boot into it. Pick mandrel bends if you want better flow, or press bends to minimise cost.
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The rust doesn't look too bad, you can easily find worse on other K series rollas. Are you just going to use rust converter and filler, or are you going to go the hard yards, cut out the old metal and weld fresh metal in?
I also hear that silicone absorbs or attracts water, so that is also another rust promoting property of it.
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SSR Mesh all around would look the business, I'd personally leave the centres as is and have the lips polished, to contrast the white of the body, car is looking great by the way, nice work!
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Actually, I recall an issue you may have when you try to upgrade handling. The 3 point strut brace has the midpoint bolt in on the twincam AE82 models, where the compliance plate is on non twincam models. Have a look at your car to see if this is the case.
You may be better off just using this car to learn proper maintenance and good driving technique, then if funds allow, buy a average or worse condition twincam and slowly fix that up, then retire the one you have now when the twincam model is ready. You could even have a look at the one Ethos is selling and decide if the rust can be fixed. You will never get a 4AC model to go or handle as well as a twincam unless BIG money is spent.
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+1 for focusing on handling. Feel free to mod the 4AC if you really want to stick with it, but you will be spending a noticeable sum of money, and still wont get the performance of a 4age.
If this is your first car, learn how to service it, then try out more intensive stuff such as replacing worn suspension parts and the like. These cars are relatively simple to work on, and parts are plentiful.
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Thanks fellas!
I did all the exterior panels in one go, just not the door jams and boot jams etc. Using a solid colour meant that there were not any dramas with the colour differing panel to panel, just need to make sure the paint is well mixed like any other paint job.
Wet rubbing the wheels is slow tedious work, my fingertips cop a polish at the same time to! lol. I've noticed my fingers have a greater hot/cold sensitivity for the day or two after as well.
I see, I would probably want to redo at least my roof and guards one day, may even do the whole car to get it looking nice overall.
Would 400 grit be too harsh to start off with? I've tried 1200 grit, wet, but it wont get rid of the stubborn bits of lacquer, or do i just need to spend more time on the wheels with the 1200 grit?
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Sounds good.
Where do attendees typically park?
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Nice find, cars like these deserve to be saved.
Actually looks decent after a cut and polish, it will look great once it is complete!
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April Fools was last month.
The GSS snap of the tincan looks overrated, should print that out and frame it haha.
Edit: lol strong typo, meant to say really great , or sometihng along those lines, instead of overrated, should have a coffee before jumping on the forums in the evening :S
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Nice little beast you got there, should be a bit of sleeper once you whack on a grille to hide the intercooler.
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Did you use the basic electrical connectors to get the knock sensor connected? If not, i'd give it a go, just ensure its crimped and soldered well. A good crimp may even eliminate the need for solder.
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The paint is looking schmick! How did you get it all blending so nicely, as it looks like you didnt do the whole car at once.
And what grit sandpaper did you start off with, for the wet sanding of the wheels? That's something I want to do to mine, to shed off the peeling lacquer.
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Not the best example of a ksev, but it has potential, and looks to be a good learning experience for a young driver like yourself. I wish I had gone down a similar road as you when I was your age, I would know so much more now.
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Those shocks look nice and beefy, are they designed to give a stiff ride?
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What can one expect at the monthly meetings?
I'm thinking of coming along if I'm free on the evening.
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Anyone spotted any AE92 series 1 SX's at any wreckers?
I'm after an intact front lip off one.
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I run a GPS tracker in one of my cars. Cheap, reliable and works a treat.
I have a simple no fuss Rhino brand alarm to take care of central locking/immobilizer. When it is set off, it has sends a signal to my stand alone GPS tracker which can be purchased from around $100 off ebay. The tracker has a sim card which sends you an SMS with and alert sms and GPS coordinates.
You can also send an sms to your car and it will sms back a google maps link which you can open up with your smart phone.
The tracker unit can also be wired up to trigger a relay to act as an immobilizer i.e. fuel pump. You sms your car a command and it will trigger the relay to kill the engine in the event of it getting stolen.
Say no to all in one alarms. too many problems/reliabilty issues
From reading the above, it sounds like you need a phone with dual sim card capacity to be able to use the gps tracker?
And setting up a kill command would need some sort of intermediate programming knowledge?
It does sound like a good way to protect your ride for a fraction of the cost of an all in one alarm, such as python and viper.
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15" x 7" should also clear the struts on an AE92, as long as the offset is between +20 and +36 or thereabouts. 195 wide tyres would be the opimal choice to limit munching tyre sidewall.
The lower side of that offset spectrum may need the guards rolled/lipped, but you can still run neutral (0) camber, and there will be no need for pulling/flaring the guards.
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The first couple pics look great with the brown tone!
The USDM bumpers may be ugly to most, but it seems to give the car a tougher look.
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Best make full use of that 10,000 rpm tacho.
THe rough looking black paint makes it seem that this car has a dark history, like the Devil Z from Wangan Midnight.
4M Straight 6, Easy To Work On?
in General Mechanical
Posted
Has anyone here had much experience with the Toyota 4M motors, carby version?
Are they as easy to work on as say, a Corolla 3k/4k motor? I am somewhat looking for Cressida or Crown which runs a 4M, but I don't want to get something that is a nightmare to work on, particularly seeing as my mechanical knowledge goes no further than a basic service on the holden V6's, and the 4AGE motor.