terryo

factory TRD race LSD with modified housing to take watts link. LSD centre rebuilt and ready for use. came out of my old Group C race car. call me if interested 0417-687161

the axle splines are the same

can do thru my work. but do don't week-enders/cheapies, sorry https://www.facebook.com/RoadAndTrack1 phone me if interested

just made another custom vernier adjustable cam gear for a 3K race engine. thought some of you guys might like to see it. https://www.facebook.com/RoadAndTrack1

they are definitely left & right sided. the locking ratchet goes one side only. i can usually get them re-webbed and repaired (and re-certified) thru work. as a professional mechanic, i would never fit a used belt due to risks of not working correctly. as a private home repairer you might be happy with that risk

we have finally got it on the road(track). pics here https://www.facebook.com/RoadAndTrack1

I'm taking out the AE82 to compete against its sister car with Bob Holden driving. Lots of Group C & A cars including AE86 (i used to own), Supra and Celica https://www.facebook.com/RoadAndTrack1?fref=ts http://www.heritagetouringcars.com.au/latest-news/

i've got a spare set off a 123 i recently wrecked. the rotors will fit OK, but not sure about calipers. measure the bolt spacing on your calipers and I'll check these

do you have discs on your 30??

it might help if you post your location, then someone local could assist. I'm in Ipswich Qld, and will happily look/listen for free. i fix this stuff all day long

i'm trying to trace an obscure fault with the ABS on an import AE111. does anyone have a link to a factory or similar manual that might cover this??. plenty of Google searching has found zip. any leads appreicated

i've got a spare diff (S type) out of an Aussie sprinter. pm me if interested

these are aluminium alloy ones. they flog out the crank bolt holes (i've dumped heaps at my work) and the face can't be remachined. not comparable to what i'm proposing

none listed that i can see.

ok, based on very helpful advice so far, it seems the bigger 225mm clutch (3tGTE) wont fit inside a T50 bellhousing. I therfore need 2-3 people interested in this version before i make one to suit the bigger clutch (225mm) . Interest?????? I already need a couple of f'wheels to suit the 2T/3T GE conversions which will use a 200mm clutch. This flywheel will also accept the smaller (early) 2TC 190mm clutch size if you happen to still have this. At this stage, these flywheels will use stock ring gear, so when it wears, it can be turned or changed. This is unlike the super-light TODA ones where the ring gear is machined into the flywheel. when it is damaged, you throw the whole lot away. I am considering a design where it can be further lightened to suit some applications. I would aim for around 5kg to start with and go down closer to 4kg for the 'super-light" Budget price for a light steel one in any version, will be in the $450-$475 range.

i am looking to make a batch of light weight steel flywheels as we have a couple of "T" engines to build that need them before i commit to making them, can someone with first-hand knowldege, please confirm these technical questions for me [*]all versions of 2T & 3T share the same crank bolt size & pattern [*]there are 2 clutch plate sizes 200mm for the 2TC, 3TC & 3TG and 225mm for 3TGTE [*]all versions have the same starter ring gear diameter and location (ie , its distance from the crankshaft end) anyone who is potentially interested, leave a message here and I'll pm you with likely prices etc, once i confirm its viable . at this stage i am planning to make the flywheel accept both clutch sizes. many thanks, terry

mate, hardly enough info to help you out. i can fit a 454 big block V8 into it if you have enough money.!!!!!!!!!!!

i've started an article on the KE17 we are building for Group Nc. see here http://www.roadandtrack.net.au if the local convenor wants to organise a group/day run, we would be happy to put on a "show & tell".

i've started an article on the KE17 we are building for Group Nc. see here http://www.roadandtrack.net.au/ if the lcoal convenor wants to organise a group/day run, we would be happy to put on a show & tell.

i have built lots of these for both road and race use. 7A pump info. AISIN 5 on front case No divider inside the pump housing. “big” gear is 7.3mm thick x 73.9mm diam. Smallest volume of all the pumps! Front case has straight edges in top right corner, where plastic cover seals. Outlet port hole does not fully align with 4A block. Genuine gasket has a slot in it! 7A on front case Back plate has distinct cut on left side when facing it. Front case has straight edges where plastic cover seals. Outlet port hole does not fully align with 4A block. Genuine gasket has a slot in it! same gear size as early 4AG pump

the problem is solved!!!! we now have longer arms and plenty of room using all Toyota parts. i will write it all up and publish on our business web site. stay tuned folks

the KE17 pitman arm has a smaller spline than the KE20 & KE30 boxes i have available to me. there may be some other toyotas that has the same (small) spline, but i can't easily find it. it appears as though every part changed when they made the swap from A shaped lower wishbone to single arm wishbone. no pics to hand of manifolds. i'll have some at work probably.

any steering box made for the single lower arm suspension, will probably not fit. i've just tried on a KE17 i'm building at work, and found the later boxes all have longer pitman arms, and this hits the lower wishbone on the KE1X series. I tried boxes from a KE30 & 55 and both had same problem i've built quit a few custom inlets and currently doing 2 Altessa ones. if you need any help, let me know. anyone chasing a 6 speed????.. i've got 2. one is set up with custom rear cross-member for AE86

thats exactly the problem i have encountered. there is more room on a 30. KE1X series has negligible room for the arms to clear the wishbone and the chassis cross-member. I could only lengthen it a few mm, so not worth the bother. the race rules prohibit a change to KE2X or later system so i will have to look to make the change inside the box.

update for those interested............. contrary to advice, the longer KE30 pitman and idler arms DO NOT fit onto the KE17 steering box/chassis rail. The spline on the pitman arm is much larger on the KE30, so swaps are not possible. The entire idler box & arm wont bolt up either . in any case, the lack of a bend in them means they hit the lower wishbone, so this supposed "fits no worry" , is definitely wrong