terryo

thanks, the 50 x 80 is common I recall. i have a RA40 diff i'm shortening and thats the size on it.

does anyone know if all the KE rear brake plates have the same bolt pattern where they bolt onto the diff. I have a 200mm drum set up on the KE17. the bolt pattern on the backing plate is 70 x 70 x 70 x 70. is that common to all the KE's with small brakes??? does anyone have a Tercel one??. they are 200mm but wider brake shoe

okj just to clarify the situation for anyone reading this in future............ on a rack based car, you change the lock to lock turns by altering the rack & pinion ratio (changing the pinion teeth usually)and/or altering the length of the arms on the bottom of the strut on a car with a steering box, you change it by either altering the worn & nut inside the steering box and/or altering the length of the arm on the bottom of the steering box (called a pitman arm) AND equally altering the length of the arm on the steering idler box Opposite side of car to steering box). to make it quicker (ie, less turns lock to lock), you lengthen the arms. about 10-15mm is is usually enough

thanks a lot for the math lesson rianwest, probably a great help for the majority of readers, but as a professional with a full workshop, I can handle that much already. i would point out that you are referring to "rack" based system , not the steering box and arms like the early KE10 etc, which is what i'm dealing with the early KE10 etc steering arms (the bit that bolts to the ball joint) can't be easily/effectively changed, however i have worked out a couple of ways to alter the idler arm and pitman arm and acheieve what I need. i was really asking for help with swaps to different arms, but it seems that is not possible so mod time, here we come . thanks again to everyone for comments. i will post a reply once i've got it all sorted

what part are you calling "knuckle"??????????

has anyone found a modern poly bush that fits the KE10 front inner wishbone??

ok, so it seems there is no bolt-on stuff that anyone knows about????????????????? i am currently making a new idler box with brass bushes to get rod of all the slop in the crappy rubber bush this is for a track only car, so i can make/weld anything i like. i have all the facilites to do this, but i was just trying the easy route first thanks guys

can anyone offer any insight into changing the steering ratio on KE. (ie different box or different arms). i want to reduce the lock-to-lock turns on a KE17 we are building up for racing. thanks, terry

i owned a MG metro turbo with blow-thru SU. They are a special HIF44 model (44mm throttle). i might still have a spare one floating around.

update can be seen here http://www.ozracingwrap.com/general/3046-toyota-australian-motorsport-heritage-to-be-on-display-at-eastern-creek.html who is coming out to support us??? Terry

the GZE igniter is rare and impossible to find when you need one in a hurry. whilst they reliable, i'd avoid them if you have a choice. the wasted spark system is now obsolete if you have a modern ECU you have a zillion coil choices really. the LS1 coils have built in igniters so we use them on lots of conversions

it looks like 16 of us with original Toyota race cars will be racing/displaying our cars at Eastern Ck raceway, Sydney on Sept 3rd/4th. Toyota have kindly organised a "tent" for all of us to be in 1 place. I'm bringing down my AE82 FX-GT. There will be 3 or 4 of that model. Also, I beleive an original KE 10 racer, plus lots of Toyota race cars up to early 90's This is a huge race meeting with tens of thousands of vistors

thanks matt, i'll drop you an email

did you ever get this sorted. i'm looking at same thing thanks, terry

the GT4 engine & box wil not fit. i have a KE17 in the shop and several GT4 engine packages. The tercel package might be adaptable

i'm about to start work on a KE17 for group Nc. love to hear from anyone else with this model in racing. I have recently spoken with various guys who raced for the AMI race team in the late 60's. Those cars were series production and were close to standard. various of them got pinged for cheating at various times, but i doubt anyone ever ran a dry sump in that class. there are more freedoms today in Nc than there ever were in series production in the 60's & 70's. The really quick/trick 3K engines were used in open-wheel race cars in the early 70's and there were lots of really top quality parts back then. i recall billet cranks, steel rods etc etc.

i can help you with cast pistons via my work. i have an engine shop with lots of Toyota experience. pm me if interested. There are still plenty of suppliers of reasonable K pistons, but they all are cast. the 4AG forgies definitely wont go into a 3K removing the gudgeon bush is an old 4AG trick to use pistons with 20mm pins in a rod designed for 18mm. these days, if you use diamond hard coated pins ($60 ea), they last oK. without the hard pins, expect about 1 season before replacing the pins FYI, the ACL piston factory in australia has closed and most of the tooling has gone offshore. I doubt we will see much old stuff from them ever again.

congrats. i do this stuff for a living, so i appreciate how much effort is involved in relation to earlier posts. the K bottom end is all but indestructible. rev to 9000 with well prepared crank & rods. pistons were the weak link at those revs, but modern forgies fix that has none of the bottom end problems that plague hot 4AG's