RO78IN

Motor at the start Components Yeehaa! double row timing chain Cleaned Crank Setting up for balancing Initial results... not too close!

Had an awesome morning... Very productive. Got engine stripped, block + cam + crank all cleaned and started working on the Crank. hopefully the link above works??:?:? can anyone help with how to load pics?

This build / car is awesome. I'm sure once you get it running it will all be worth it.

I'll have to post picks of the head set up, it's pretty extreme... Huge valves, heaps of porting, quite large double valve springs... It's a fair point though, I think we might have to look into light weight / super strong push rods. I'd imagine that really, with the rocker arm and push rod, those valve springs have a lot to do... Anyway, where there's the will, there's a way

Sorry to say bowler (especially when you're backing me up!!!) but 300hp is somewhere around 220ish KW. So accounting for transmission loss, it would be180 rwkw or most probably a little closer to 190rwkw. I'm totally not going against anyone's opinion here and they're welcome. That was my ambititous target, and you need to have something to aim for!!! I'm sure with enough boost and e85 you could move the world, but I take it that past a certain point, it just would no longer to 'efficienct'. Anyway, let's see how we get on! Engine has got all the ancillaries removed, ready form stripping tomorrow. Quick edit: 160rwkw is going to be fun anyway!!!' ;)

Oh, BTW, donor engine + block gets stripped this afternoon and cleaning and so on beggins this weekend... (i think i might even have a pass from the MRS!!!)

Its not quite double as you have other considerations you need to look at such as ineffiencies of the turbos and what not. Even the back pressure of the exhaust creates a heap of issues... That being said, luckily for us, we can just wind the boost up :) i worked out 26PSI required i think (purely theory tho...). It will be interesting to see what the head can actually flow. This thing is so stupidly modified, it has 32 + 40mm ports in it. Compare that to the (25 + 29 X 2) for a 4AGE, its not that far off. Exhaust: 4AGE = 25mm = 2.5cm = 4.90cm squared X2 = 9.8cm Squared. modifed 3K = 32mm = 3.2cm = 8.05 cm Squared. Inlet: 4AGE = 29.5 = 2.95cm = 6.83cm Squared X2 = 13.66cm Squared Modifed 3k = 40 = 4.0 = 12.56cm Squared. No body would question the flow of a boosted 4age for 300Hp, and (by valve size at least) its not so far off... I do believe that the head inlet and exhaust tracks will need a shite load of work, which they already have. i need to strip the head and do more modifications anyway, so i will measure everything up then...

Thanks; Thats all i needed to know. I'm trying to work out theorhetical (spelling! - sorry) Top speed of the set up or moving to a 5 speed gearbox with a 1.0 5th gear... That and matching it with a diff ratio, but with 10.5Krpm limit, l should be able to lift the diff ratio something more like 4.6:1... Target is 210KPH. i don't think that at eastern creek i'd ever get more than that anyway (not with 300HP) so i may as well gear it down as much as possible so I'm redlining somewhere nearer the end.

Can someone answer how many RPM they are doing in 4th at 100K? (in a KE70 that is) thanks

TD04 -15T i think was the Standard one. They are actually quite plentiful as the 'upgrade' to the WRX (read hiflo version). I think i might actually just by a cheaper version out of KendoDynamic or something first just to see. Its going to be fairly peaky engine, and i may need to reconsider the RPM limit if i cannot pull it off. One thing is becoming clear, its going to need a short Diff Ratio and a reasonably close gearbox. Anyway, can worrry about that in time. Need to get it together and see if it stays together first!!!

OK, So Turbo Selection looks like this - for 300HP @ 10,500 RPM - Airflow requirement is 33.3LBS or 483 CFM. - Boost requirement is 25 PSI or 2.68 Pressure Ratio Based on Compressor maps, the best turbo is a TD04 - 19T. Surprising hey!?!?! - Boost is expected to come on around 6500rpm giving 4000RPM of 'usable' torque curve. (sounds stupid having something Starting to boost at 6.5K, but when the redline is so high, its the 'best'). in terms of Pure HP, the TD05-16G was the better option up top, however i think in the interests of 'area under the curve' in terms of the workable power band, this is the best solution. I think it might be worth next looking into gearboxes to see what the spread is between curves, because unless it can keep within the 4000RPM, iits going to be dropping off boost between shifts. ANyway, have alook at the plotted points on the graph. first dot is Idle, second (still a ways of the curve is 6K), second line half way in is 7000, the rest are 8000, 8000 with different temp, 9250 and 10500 Ok, Photo will be in next post once it comes through...

To be honest, most major thing I'm worried about at present is the width of the power curve and finding a suitable close ratio gear box to suit (for a reasonable price is an important stipulator here!) Our work overhauls large frame turbos, so balancing the rotating assembly is no dramas. the rods purchased quoted 10K rpm in a 4AGE with a much longer stroke and smaller Rod / Stroke ratio with heavier pistons, so everything is in my favor that way. THe 5k head was already done by someone else, but by my measurements last night, the valves come about 1.5-2mm from touching (so when its hot, I'm a little concerned about valve sealing, but anyway). but the funniest thing is they are so large that its only JUST going to fit inside the bore! i was playing around with the thought of a supercharger as well given the head configuration, however i work with turbos, so really, i should use them! I haven't done too much with the turbo calculations yet, as to be honest I'm not really sure what to expect in terms of HP and whatever. I'm really keen on having enough power to be competetive in under 2L super (or Sports) Sedans. to that end, anyone know of a Rolling shell (preferably log booked) available?

Ok, so the project really is in its infancy and to be honest, will probably take a shite load of time to complete, but here goes anyway. Firstly, the most burning question is going to be WHY THE f@ck would i go 3K??? Simple. Cams put a 1.7 capacity factor on for anything super /turbo charged and i wannted something Turbocharged (as one of our company divisions works with turbos) and wanted to run somewhat cheaply, hence i wanted to be in the under 2L class. So backwards configuring, 2000 / 1.7 = 1176cc, so the capacity of the 3k at 1165 is as close to perfect as you could want. Further to this, some people may know, that from a certain Cubic capacity, you're really only going to get so much torque, so revs are the answer. and the Stroke / bore ratio lends itself to high revs! So the game plan is to have a 3K, 10,000 + RPM engine, arround 1.5-2 bar boost and then to see how long it lasts! Boost will be dialled in very slowly, and if i have to stop around 1 bar, i won't be too upset. main reason for doing this is as much an engineering experiment as anything else. It will be fun in the hill climbs tho! also, I'm looking for an old rolling shell for possibly a race car to potential put this thing in, but in the mean time, its going in a Streeter (not that the engine will be very fun on the street...) So far, i have: - a full 3k engine with everything... - a massivly over worked 5K head with Gemini Valves and all sorts of carzy shit done (which needs a fair amount of clean up) - H Beam 4AGE Con-rods - Suzuki GXS-R1100 Piston set (20mm pins to suit above) >as an aside, these pistons look pretty well suited to this application though. it was quite surprising. Although the compression height is not that close, it was the way i needed it as the head had so much shaved off it, it was near impossibly to get the CR down below 14.5:1 LOL. Someone had big plans indeed!!!! - Fuel wise, i have some carbies in the shed, so I'm TRYING that route first. I have a pair of side draft dellortos, and a weber 32/36. I think i'll try the weber first though... thats about it at the moment. i have about 5 pages of maths that i have ran through to get the engine parts listed above, which if you would like to know, i can put up here. Some interesting things all worked out nicely like the Conrod / stroke ratio being nicely infavor of high RPM. Stroke and Bore = in favor of high RPM and so on. I am trying to get the actual car Bluesliped at the moment, so if anyone knows anyone south of Sydney, please let me know - i live in wollongong. i'll post some photos of the car later on. thanks Matt

WEll so far, i still have nothing! Camshaft timing = OK Ignition timing = 90ish BDTC to make it run, back at normal it hardly runs Dwell angle = Perfect (new) Condensor = New Dizzy cap = new Plug Leads = New Spark Plugs = new fuel pump = good Carby = Just rebuilt (twice)!!! Inlet leaks = Cannot find any. tomorrow i'll check compression, but I'm not expecting any issues there. Rotation is something i'll have to look at, but I'm pretty sure it would be ok hey! i've checked plugs being to the right cylinders, but it must be ok given that i can make it run fine. This 90 degrees out is totally got me stumped. if it was 180, i'd say the leads were one cylinder, but its 90. I'm going to double check the timing light tomorrow, but again, I'm fairly sure its all good. Is there anything basic that i've missed?

Ok, some progress tonight. Checked TDC and found the only place it would actually run is 80-100 degrees BTDC. freaking surprising hey! Then we decided to have a look at the condensor and points. The points actually had a hole blown out and the other side looked very badly pitted. So we're planning to change them both and see what happens. Do you guys thing that the points and condensor could actually cause this? I mean this is the actual timing based on timing light and defined crank position... Also to note, the timing chain cover looks awefully clean, maybe this was done with the head and the chain tensioner wasn't done correctly allowing it to slip. Is this a likely scenario? Tomorrow I'm also planning to take the rocker cover off, ensure all valves are closed and pressurise the inlet to see leaks. I'm 99% there's none, but worth checking. Thanks again for your help and input.

Hi guys, Thanks for the reply. Yep the guy selling was very honest about it all :y: Ok, so last night i had a mate come over and start / throtle the thing, what we found was that we almost ended up advanced about 90-100 degrees and then the thing runs half decent (not perfect, but pretty good). So i think they were timing it off the wrong notch in the crank. That being said, I'm taking a Dial indicator home, finding TDC and will time it off the piston. As for other work, its got the 32/36 weber on it, a nice set of extractors and not much else as far as i can tell. THe engine had just had the head done VERY recently, i just changed all the spark leads, dizy cap and so on. At this stage, to me at least, i think its somewhere in the ignition. Please let me know if anything else might cause this!

PLEASE HELP. The engine is missing and farting like a son of a bitch! at low rpm when its cold, its a total pig, open the throtle and it straight dies, low throtle will SLOWLy rev up, no throtle = straight dies. It backfires and shoots flames out the inlet LOL! I have looked for vac leaks and really couldn't anything... the vac line to the rocker cover had the valve a bit crappy and leakage. so i left the valve open, blocked the line and it makes no difference. Had the carby apart twice now and everything looks ok including the float levels, Jets all seem within reason. its all pretty clean, but in all honesty, i really don't know a great deal about carbies in general. so any input is appriciated. I looked into the ignition system, it all looks OK, i replaced most of it anyway, and double checked first cylinder timing and it looked ok. Then put the timing light on all other cylinders and looked at the RPM on the tacho and the light and everything marries up. Is it possible that the timing chain slipped? Anyway, all help is appriciated. I've owned this thing for two days!

First post in this forum and its a RANT! lol... I am under no illusion about the stupid modifications that some people on our scene do, And to be fair to some, most don't even know they're stupid! Non tensile bolts to hold the caliper as a good example. I agree their should be some level of oversight into these to make sure they are safe for the driver and the community at large. Something similar to a blueslip (without the stupid blueslip 'is it standard crap), essentialy a more in depth pink slip. THis would lower the 'engineers' costs to the car owner and would actually make people doing the modifications get checked - which is the purpose of this in the first place. It must be said however, its USUALLY not a car malfunction that kill people, just like its not guns that kill people. Its peoples driving. Not cars, not speed, not 'unsafe roads - another rant altogether! What should be done if they really are interested in saving lifes is educating people! Think about it logically + simply. people die in cars mostly due to accidents. People have accidents because someone wasnot able to adequately control their car. Its like these stupid L plate laws, 1000 hours driving in a straight line isnt going to help shit if you've just aqua plained down the highway and are now looking forwards out the passenger window. Every year, the government must spend 10 Billion plus on updating roads to make them safer. When really all they need is a Large skid pan in every major RTA centre and lessons for all (with open events in the evenings i personally think). It makes safer drivers, it will keep the younger generation from doing stupid things in the street and will give every driver a chance to learn their car (because they all re-act differently). Anyway, i could go on for hours and I'm getting a little off topic, but in short, there really does need to be some sort of oversight on modified vehicles (how many 13b turbos in 808's with std brakes have you seen?!?!) but like this crap, RTA look to the easy fixes first. Regards Matt