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Crashly

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Crashly last won the day on November 17

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About Crashly

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    I'm new here

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  • Location
    Melbourne
  • Real Name
    Ashley

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  1. Maybe we should add this stuff in the "KE70 cable to hydaulic-clutch" thread where more people are likely to find/see it? I'll dig up some more pics of my conversion and add it in there.
  2. I didnt look into what other ones where available, I was lucky enough to find one straight up that would do the job (pretty sure i didnt pay much more than $100 for it) A few other clubman guys use one from a SAAB 900, that may be worth looking at too
  3. Jono, How much you do want for it? Ash
  4. I did the conversion a few years back, but only got it on the road in March and it hasn’t be driven it all that much (driven hard though!), but so far the clutch has been perfect, no leaks etc.. Your right, there is no adjustment. When I set it all up it had some clearance, but I haven’t checked it since it’s been in use. If it is rubbing I’ll machine a little more off in the lathe. Diff ratio is a 3.8:1, from memory the car sits on about 3500 revs at 100ks.
  5. Thanks, I’m pretty happy with how it’s turned out. Car weighs about 490kg. I’m hoping to build a warm 5k for it next year.
  6. Car is running a standard 3K with twin 1.25" S.Us, electric dizzy, 4 speed box and escort rear end. Have converted the clutch from cable operation to hydraulic (clutch fork didnt fit in the tunnel)
  7. Thanks Banjo, Will have a ring around over the next few days, hopefully I can find one without having to order in from overseas. I have 3K powered clubman sportscar. At the moment the radiator cap sits level with the thermostat, so to fill with coolant I need to raise the front of the car subsantially to get the fill point above everything else. I can't raise the cap any higher as it already rubs on the underside of the nose. So the hope is that I can use one of these housings to use as the fill point and then remove the old one on the radiator. The car in question...
  8. I am after an upper thermostat housing like pictured below? Does anyone have one for sale or know where I can get one? Ash
  9. These are designed for custom installs, from memory I used a 3000 series unit. If you want to use this unit, you will need to slightly increase the centre bore of the base in a lathe and reduce the height of the mounting legs. Changing the pedal box is probably going to be an easier and cheaper option.
  10. No need for a clutch fork, it pushs forwards against the clutch pressure plate. The Tilton unit uses its own thrust bearing.
  11. I converted my K40 gearbox in my clubman from cable to hydraulic (no room for the standard clutch fork) I used a second hand Tilton concentric slave cylinder (modded slightly to clear the input shaft) and mounted it to the input shaft seal/clutch fork pivot plate.
  12. Its for a road car, that will get the occasional hillclimb. At the moment thet sump hangs down 20mm below the bottom chassis rail of my car (clubman sports car), so I need to shorten it a smidge, adding the wings to it will allow for the loss of capacity to be recovered. I have read up on Bills dry sump setup, and I may do it on day, but fo rthe time being a winged and baffled saetup will suffice.
  13. Has anyone built a winged and baffled sump for their K series? Looking for pics/ideas on how best/not to do it Cheers,
  14. Looking for a starter motor suit my 3K engine Thanks, Ashley
  15. Thanks, I'll have a read through the build diary Seems the mintylamb site no longer works (well for me anyway)
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