kremske20

ok, been a while since I last updated, I have now got the doors and bootlid panel beated and into epoxy primer, I haven't got pics of the epoxy yet but have some of the drivers door, it was pretty bad but I now have it really good, not file finished (these panels are too thin for that!!) but will need less than half a mm in filler to get it good enough to paint, I had to put some sound deadening mat in the doors and bootlid so I could successfully sand the paint off tem with out wrecking the panel, they vibrated like hell, now they sound like a "thud" when you tap on the panel, not like a "ting", and they don't flex like a b***h either!! here is the top of the drivers door, panel beaters said I needed a new 1!! this is after around 20mins with dollie and a flipper file it got hard to tell what was what after a while so I inked it up with a thick artline pen and blocked it out again, looked pretty good, a few high spots which I managed to get down with the shrinking disc this is a section along the swage line on the bottom section of the door (I think, lol, was ages ago when I took these pics!!), before after flipper and dollie work I haven't managed any more pics yet, batteries keep going falt when I goto upload them, will have some more this week I started on the drivers 1/4 panel tonight, scraped heapds of shit off the inside, took bloody ages but atleast the dollies work now it contacting the metal, got te rear part pretty good, now just gotta strip the interior out so I can get into the front part of the 1/4 panel!! krem

I just went to the local sheetmetal place and got some panel steel, I got 2 sheets, 1 x 1.2mm and 1 x 0.9mm, they weren't cheap tho, about $90 each think, but I'm sure if you ask them for some offcuts they would sell you some, I got a milk crate full for welding practice for $5, was just a pile behind their quillotine, nice straight edges, great for practise!! I think early Toyota stuff is 0.7mm thick but by the time I ground off the rust scale there wouldn't be much in it!! for a great dvd to learn metal fabrication goto www.metalshapingzone.com and order the dvd, it goes for 2.5hrs, and is the best investment you will make this yr, he shows you howto make simple and complex shapes from simple hand tools, he can make whole cars from scratch , I have watched over 20 times!! krem

yeah will do mark, I have a growing list of things I need, money being the 1st thing, lol, can ya help me out with that?? lol hopefully I will get a chance this week to get back out into the shed and get the doors finished so I can seal them and the bootlid up into epoxy and get some more pics up if your ever in Devonport just sing out, be good to meet some people ! my number is 0400821458 krem

ok, so ive been doin a little on the doors, they were pretty bad, I had a guy from a local panel shop come give me a guesstamation on a respray before I started and he said to allow atleast $6k and I needed to buy 2 better doors as these were pretty bad, fixable but better to find better items, so far I have spent around 3hrs on the drivers door and maybe 4 on the passenger door, drivers door came up real nice, not file finished but pretty good none the less, will only get a very fine skim coat of filler and will be sweet, the passenger door needs another few hrs spent on it to get it real nice. now I'm pondering the idea of fender mirrors, jus wanna know what other people think?? if I go with fender mirrors I will to weld up the holes in the doors before I spray epoxy on them, how hard arefender mirrors to find and also to install?? I still haven had any luck finding the clipsfor the stainless strips along the bottom, any1 help me out with these?? will have some more pics up real soon krem

ok, here are some pics of what ive been doin to the ke over the last 2 weeks when I get a chance to get into the shed, I have so far got the front end into epoxy to seal up the bare metal, got the rust in bottoms of guards cut out and new metal welded in, not file finished but reasonably happy, little bit more planishing to do, same with the panel beating, got the dents all roughed out, didn't take long, don't know why people just bogged them up, especially the drivers side, would have taken longer to bog it than I did roughin out the dents, got a few more hrs left planishing them out before a skim coat of bog, I could bog them as they are now but wanna get them as good as I can, just gotta be careful as the panels are made from very thin metal, don't wanna stretch it out to much anyways, here are the pics. drivers guard showing some of the bog a few hrs later rust in bottom of passenger guard patch panel welded up, used my dc tig, I try not to use filler rod, just where I burn thru, it makes it hard to planish the panel nice, but its hard to planish here as its hard to get in behind the repair weld ground back, still needs some work but better than boggin up over rust drivers guard was the same here is the bonnet, was pretty good apart from a few small dents along the font and some deep stonechips whick I feathered back, the dents will just get a skim of filler as its all double skinned and they are very minute, a thick coat of primer filler would have done the job but I'm not keen on relying on it to fill stuff out, dents would have been less than 1/4 mm deep and were only visible if I got right down and really looked when the panel was wet, even tho I'm only selling the car when I'm finished, I'm still gonna be fussy with my work, wanna get a good name for myself!! some of the guard lips were a bit ordinary and a few taps with hammer and dollie tidied them up nicely I didn't get a pic of the panels in epoxy yet, will get some over next few days, just been busy with other things, plan is to try and get it all in epoxy by the end of the month, will keep updates coming krem

ok, so ive started to strip the ke20, I have the guards and stonetray back to metal and the bonnet buzzed back and the small dents fixed, bonnet wont be back to metal as it was pretty good apart from a few tiny dints and stone chips, the guards hoewever were a diff story, they both had bog in the front of them, 1 side had it around 5-8mm thick!! it only took around 2 hrs to get it pretty good, not file finished but the thickest of the new filler will be less that 1mm thick anyways, I'm getting the welder out this week to fix the rust in the guards and wanna know if the plastic clips that hold the stainless trim on along the bottom of the car are still available?? if they are where can I get them, if not I will weld up the holes while I have the welder out. will put up some progress pics during the week krem

hmm, might have to think bout this, my dash has a few cracks in it that don't look very nice!! we might be heading south in a few weeks so will let ya know krem

if you want to sand the new paint off and polish the original paint to save repainting, i would start off with 400 wet until you can see the original paint starting to bleed thru, then goto 800 wet until nearly all the new paint if off, then i would get some dry guide coat, rub it all over the car, and then 1500 wet and dry all the scratches from the 800 out, you will see them in the guide coat when you start sanding, be very careful on the edges, leave them till last, then after all that hard work you should be able to buff the originl paint up nice don't try thinners as it will kill anything acrylic it touches, if you wanna repaint it, i would get a orbital sander from a mate, some 180 dry discs and take most of the new paint off, dry guide coat it and then hit it with some 320 discs on the sander until you get rid of all the 180 scratches, dry guide coat again and then hit it with 800 wet until its all nice and scratch free, get some primer to touch up the bits that go thru to metal, and paint it, you shouldn need to primer it. if you wanna primer it, just hit it with 180 till all the new paint is gone and the original is nice and "dull", then primer, guide coat and hit it with some 800 wet for darker colors or 600 wet for white till all the guide coat is gone. metallic and pearls you should use 800 wet don't run the sander flat out, it will tend to clog up the paper, i like to go mid speed, and sometimes a finer paper like 120-180 can take paint off quicker that 80!! krem

oh and don't forget good ol youtube, search for restolad, he has great stuuf on there!! krem

ya can get kahglass, its bog with fibres in it, very strong for holes and stuff, lol, as some1 already said, don't wet rub ya bog, OR bare metal, it will flash rust real quick, the way i see it, your spending your time and money on this thing, hek, why not make good of it?? that way your not wasting your money and time, I'm not saying make it a show car, but you could make a real nice streeter with simple tools and materials, try going to your local library, sign up (its free), and get some books on bodywork and spray painting, a good 1 which i have is "how to paint your showcar", its awesome, explains everything in dumbass terms, lol, heaps and heapos of pics, in color too, search for things like custom spraypainting and authors like, jon kosmoski (founder of house of kolor!!), timothy remus, eddie paul, they all have fantastic books, you will learn heaps and heaps, that's how i learnt, and don't be scared of asking questions, I'm sure my local paint shop guys quiver when i call or go in, lol i now do heaps of spraypainting and even make money from it, stick to it and its very rewarding, go buy yourself a couple of good sanding blocks, search for velocity, i have a heap of the flexi foam blocks from these guys, they are awesome, you can customise them to suit your needs and are cheap as!! a workquip spraygun from ebay with 3 tips for around $80 is a great starting point, i use 1 for my primer, great value anyways, enough dribbling for now, keep up the great work krem

oh yeah, sorry in Devonport. krem

hey guys, I'm looking for some stuff for my ke20. need a rear seatbelt, guage cluster (just the temp guage will do), a pr of front indicator garnishes (early model) and I think thats all for now till I start to pull the car apart for a resto!! cheers, krem

na haven't even started on the ke20 yet, got a resistor, broke the bank @ $4.00, lol got to get this rx7 painted, then I have a hilux to paint, then some more reno's to finish so we can get our new carpet down (before winter, lol!!), so wont be for a while yet, gonna collect as many bits that I need as I can before I start to pull the car apart, wanna get thru it as soon as I canafter starting it so I'm all fresh and don't lose motivation like I do!! my uncle knows how to do it anyways, thanks krem

looks neat and tidy, good find krem

hey ppls, we have recently purchased a 71 ke20, ive never had a corolla before, a few ra28's have been my only Toyota's, but this 1 came up for sale at a "reasonable" price and I couldn't help myself. as you can see from the pics, the engine bay and interior are pretty neat, the passenger seat will be restitched, but I think the cracks in the dash will be staying as can't afford a new 1, carpet in the front is a littlee worn but some new mats will fix that problem, maybe a new front carpet kit might be on the list depending on the cost, I want the car as neat and original as possible, even the original radio works a treat!! my plans are to respray it, new front shocks, taillights and front indicators, a few new door rubbers, need 2 original seatbelts for the rear, and a basic service and tune, roadworthy and then resell it to some 1 who will appreciate more than me (I'm a rotor fan and am doing this car to help fund my mazda 1200 coupe project) the body is in pretty bad shape as you can see from the pics, but it will be bare metalled, slapped straight, skim coat of filler and primed and painted, all in quality lesonal 2pak materials, I know bugger all about these cars except for the fact they look cool and cute, so I might be asking some pretty dumb questions along the way but pls be vigilant, I am knowledgable in some areas, but spelling aint 1 of them!! here are some pics, hope you enjoy now the car wont be started on for a while,maybe around 6weeks, I'm just gathering parts at the mo and we have a s2 rx7 in the shed , that needs painting and put back to water tight before I can get this in the shed, ive spent over 200 hrs on the 7 so far and I'm not leaving it out in the weather till its all done (except the engine bay as we can't afford the to rebuild it as yet) will keep updating as parts arrive and as progress gets going thanks for viewing krem

I wouldn't recomend bogging over etch primer, etching primers and polyesters don't like each other, and ecth primers are a thing of the past, if your planning on keeping the car for a long time I would be using a good 2 part epoxy, it seals up the metal (etch primer dontseal up and prevent corrosion), scuf it up with some 120 on a d/a (or an orbital will do) and then lay your bog over that, its a little more expensive but it does a lot better job, after you finish off your bog work, invert in some spray polyester, its like bog from a spraygun, 2pak, lay it on thick as ya like and then bl;ock it back, sands nicely, then primer over the top, I would be using 2k or 2pak, its so much easier, you use less of it and get better results from the gun!! a good book to look out for is called "hot to paint your show car" look it up in booktopia.co or fishpond.com, or just the local library, its an awesome book, explains things really good and has heaps of pics for dumbasses like me!! can't wait to see more progress on your car, gonna b awesome krem

ok cool, thanks for the pics, you car looks nice, got any more pics?? nice color if I can't find original iguess I will have to go with the repro too!! krem

just a thought, would the repro items in that thread (or all the repro items) just fit shit like most repro items do?? I have noticed that phils rotaries sell the repro 1's, and having rotaries and being on ausrotary, a lot of his stuff is pretty ordinary (repro stuff), just wondering if original items would fit better?? krem

cheers banjo, iwas told the guards were the same minus side indicators, but my grill s in that pic and I don't like the way it don't match up along the bottom, looks like I'm in the hunt for the early type then!! thanks fo the help guys krem

sweet, thanks, I have 1 from a mazda I'm wrecking but its a little shitty looking, will try repco, guess they would only be around $20 or so!! thanks for the help guys, krem

lol, you can come give me a hand if ya like mate, but its a bit cold here intassie this time of the yr!! we had a datto1200 ute and an ra28 celica which did the sae thing, cld be the barrel but I will do the resistor thing since my uncle reckons it will burn he points out quick and if the prob is still there then I will get a new barrel can I buy a new resistor and can some1 pls show me a pic of what it is I'm looking for and wher its sposed to be in the engine bay? cheers, krem

lol, man I can't read alien, lol, elect not my strongest point, but thanks, I will get my uncle to suss it out with the diagram, thanks for taking the time, really appreciate it!! krem

hi, my ke20 (3k) wont actually fire up while I'm cranking itover, it only fires u when I crank it and then back the key off a little, is this normal for an old car as out old datto 200 ute did the same thing, my uncle seems to think its beacause the ballast resistor (think that's what he called it, something about dropping the voltage from the coil to the points??) isn't there, it seems to start and run fine but he said it will burn out the points real quick. I have 1 here from a mazda 1300 I'm wrecking, (its a white thing with a spring looking thing inside) but its pretty old and prob stuffed, ca I still buy them new and can some 1 pls show me a diagram of how to wire it in any help is appreciated krem

yes mate certainly is, wanna sell them if they not broken?? lol or will the later model 1,s with no indicators fit and I will just put another indicator in the guard like the later model 1s!! also need some earlier model taillights, the boxy looking 1,swith the reverse light on the bottom krem

I have a mate with a td Cortina which has no bumpers, passed engineers with it because he welded up and smoothed over the whole front, there are no sharp edges or gaps, looks mean as, also has a wicked 289 Windsor and a thumping great holsett turbo too, all engineered!! krem