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focus218

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Posts posted by focus218

  1. 4 hours ago, Banjo said:

    Hi Michalis, & welcome aboard Rollaclub !  

    There are a lot of things on a car, that if they break down; don't stop You from getting from point "A" to point "B".  Windscreen wipers, headlights, a horn; or even an reverse gear; don't have You broken down on the side of the road, & isolated, & going nowhere.

    However, the engine is paramount; closely followed by the alternator. Even with a fully charged battery, if the alternator fails; it won't be that long, before the engine comes to a stop, on the side of the road.

    The "electrical loads" on a battery, have only increased, over the years, as we add more & more electrically powered devices & gadgets to our cars.  There are ways, in which You can decrease the electrical load on your car, by say . . . . .  "converting all light bulbs to LED ones".  I did this in the past couple of years, & it was a really good upgrade. Brighter lights; less voltage drops; & lower power consumed.

    When our Corollas were first built, the alternators fitted were pretty standard, & produced 30-35A maximum, at their output terminals.  Invariably, the early ones had an external "voltage regulator", that consisted of relays that vibrated to produce an excitation current to the alternator.  Later ones, like the Bosch one, you imaged; had a solid state regulator, built into alternator body, & very easily replaced.

    Alternators have improved dramatically over the last decade or so, & alternators of similar size, to the ones You depict, can now produce outputs of 80-120 amperes.

    I purchased an alternator on line, that was cheaper than an new replacement, exactly the same as the original fitted to the car.  It produces 120 amperes output max.

    image.png.26a60e3691ebe9f76775120d9d4fbeb0.png

    It was the best upgrade I've done, of recent years.

    The single biggest wearing item, in the alternators, You've depicted is the commutator. These wear & get "out of round", & result in more rapid wear of the carbon brushes. 

    I would strongly suggest opening the alternator up, & inspection, commutator & brushes, before fitting a second hand unit to your car.

    Another alternative, is to find a second hand alternator, with greater output, that will fit. Years ago, I purchased a reconditioned alternator, from a Toyota Hilux utility, that produced about 65 amperes max.  Off memory, it only requires a couple of washers, on the  mounting bracket bolt, so that the pulley at the front lined up perfectly.

    Hope that these suggestions assist.  Good Luck !

    Cheers Banjo

     

     

     

    Hey Banjo thanks for the reply,

    The main issue I have is that I don't know how to do the wiring with the new alternator. 

    I have been having some issues with my old one which is a 30A that came originaly with the 2K engine.

    So, I found this used 40A, took it to a pro and had it tested and also had the brushes changed, just in case.

    Now, I have no idea how to do the connections. 

  2. Ok guys, I know it's useless for some of us, but I was just going through old posts and noticed that some numbers are controversial between us.

    After checking my Toyota K Repair Manual I need some final factory recommended numbers missing:

    1. WATER TEMPERATURE

    2. WATER PRESSURE

    3. WATER THERMOSTAT OPENING TEMPERATURE

    4. OIL TEMPERATURE

    5. OIL PRESSURE

    6. FUEL PRESSURE

    7. FUEL OCTANE

  3. 3 hours ago, altezzaclub said:

    Hell, I can't remember where they are either Banjo!  Here's my go-to one from The Girls KE70-

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0

    I've got another one with both alternators on, made for the USA market if you want it Michalis. Shoot me a  PM with a email address & I'll email it over.

    Cheers

     

     

    Thank you altezzaclub for the file :). This will be very helpful finishing the wife's KE70 project. I wont be needing the USA market one because I'm in Europe. I will need though the KP30 or KP36 one because I am rewiring mine and I will be doing it factory style.

  4. ***FIXED UPDATE***

    I have to say that I finally found and fixed the issue. The mains where too small making the engine running lean.

    What I used :

    primary main jet = 125, aircorrector = 180, emulsion tube = F50, idle jet = 55
    secondary main = 130, aircorrector = 195, emulsion tube = F6, idle jet = 50

    What should be used in a stock 4K engine with a Weber DGV 32/36

    primary main jet = 140, aircorrector = 180, emulsion tube = F50, idle jet = 55
    secondary main = 135, aircorrector = 195, emulsion tube = F6(under no circumstances do not use F66), idle jet = 50

    Works like a charm.

    Many thanks to  altezzaclub and  davew7 

    These two sources also helped a lot:

    https://ratsun.net/topic/2125-weber-carb-hesitation/

    http://www.3fowlers.com/Weber Trouble Shooting Guide.pdf

  5. Hello from Cyprus.

    Ok guys I really need your help re-jetting my Weber 32/36.

    I' ve searched the entire internet and can't seem to find a straight answer.

    I have a stock 4K engine on a KP36 Ute. Bought the engine brand new from an old part store, doesn't even have serial numbers on it :)

    These are the following installed so far:

    1. Stock 4k motor
    2. Weber 32/36 manual choke
    3. 4 X NGK BPR5EY Spark Plugs
    4. AccuSpark Electronic Ignition
    5. AccuSpark 12V Red Coil
    6. Custom Extractors
    7. 4K Heavy Duty Water Pump
    8. 71 Degrees Celsius Low Temp Stainless Racing Thermostat
    9. Racing Mechanical Fuel Pump

    I  recently followed the advice from an old post in another site and tried re-jetting it with the following:

    primary main jet = 125, aircorrector = 180, emulsion tube = F50, idle jet = 55
    secondary main = 130, aircorrector = 195, emulsion tube = F6, idle jet = 50

    The car drives like SHIT.

    This is my everyday car. I start it up at 5am and needs 10min to warm up. I pull the choke and it shuts off.  As soon as I start driving it just hesitates. It's driving me mad.

    I even bought an electronic distributor and brand new coil and sparks.

    What are the best Jet Sizes I can use? You are my last hope.

  6. 3 hours ago, coln72 said:

    Can you run a taller wheel/tyre combo....?

    No. The factory tire settings were 165/65/12. The ones I have are 175/70/13 with extra 8 mm spacers in order for the front tires to not touch the shock absorbers. At the rear when I get some extra weight in, the tires escape the wheel arches just a few millimeters. So taller tires are not an option.

  7. I have a 1985 KP36. I've made a lot of mods on it mainly on the mechanical part.

    1. Changed the stock 2K for a 4K  motor (Brand new cylinder block)

    2. Put a Weber DGV 32/36

    3. Switched the T40 gearbox with a T50. 

    4. Put new Headers and new Radiator with a low temp racing thermostat.

     

    All these are great. The problem I have is on the freeway. My Differential is a stock KP36 (picture attached) one with a ratio of 43:10 (4.3) so travelling long distance is a pain and hard to reach top speeds. I need to get me a 3.9 ratio differential in so I will be able to cruise at 100-130 KMH with the engine at low RPMs.

    Is there a way I can only switch my Final Diff Gears without removing my entire rear axle? 

    Any suggestions ???

    diag_AHU4Ce.png

  8. Recently purchased a twin downdraft manifold from a KP31.

    I am now considering putting 2 Webers 36 DCNF on it.

    Will that be a proper thing to do or should I consider 2 32/36 DGV's

     

    FYI: The engine is a 4K from a KE70 with a K50 gearbox, all these replaced my stock 2K engine on my Publica KP36.

     

    Any suggestions?

    post-19721-0-50953000-1489392143_thumb.jpg

    post-19721-0-06764300-1489392272_thumb.jpg

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