davew7

If your water pump is in good condition and the hose do not deform while running, then it's a 90% chance that you have air in the system. Jack the front of the car up while filling the radiator. Run the engine for a short time, cool down, and re-fill. It will probably take about 3 times to get all the air out of the system. I have a Civic rad for my 4AGE and it actually runs on the cool side.

That is just a small amount of oil leakage. Nothing that would lead to any real problems. If you just put Permatex on the air pump threaded fittings, after cleaning off the rust, that will solve that issue. Then install a new exhaust manifold gasket, you should be in good shape. After replacing the gasket and running the engine for a week, go back and re-check the manifold nuts. Davew7

First try having some one run the throttle at high RPM, without the air cleaner. Then completely remove the idle adjust needle from the carb, while the engine is running. Then put a rag over the carb inlet several times, just long enough to prevent a stall. The high vacuum may actually clear out the idle port in the carb. If you have an air compressor you can also try blow air through the idle port. Last, you can try sticking a small wire through the idle port, you have nothing to lose if the only option is a new carb. Davew7

Probably should look at a "W" series trans, with a SQ Engineering adaptor plate to a T-50 bell housing. Have you up-graded or plan on up grading the rear axle? Davew7

Running without a spring on the advance weight is not a good idea. You need some type of damping. If the weight swings out and make hard metal to metal contact, it will bounce, causing erratic timing. Find a lighter spring or try to dampen the contact with rubber. davew7

A wild a$$ guess is that you are bleeding air into the carb. Try pulling the solenoid and cleaning the port area and plunger, allowing the solenoid to close off the air bleed port. Could also possible be a function the bi-metallic strip out of adjustment not allowing an electrical contact switch to function. Davew7

I actually had the outer ring on the engine damper, the rubber bonding, allow it to move more then 20*. Put a screw driver in the number 1 plug hole and turn the engine over by hand to TDC. Verify the timing mark aligns with the notch on the outer damper ring. If the timing is correct and the injectors flow and pattern looks good. Double check again for vacuum leaks. Davew7

The control solenoid, which the original Aisan did not have is a anti-diesel solenoid, that closes the throttle when you turn off the ignition. You should be able to adjust it fore and aft at the throttle, which would effect idle. But first check the choke. Make sure that the choke is fully opens after the engine is up to temp. Then verify that the linkage to the fast idle cam is correctly adjusted. I would also check for a vacuum leak. Davew7

Check the float level, it could be set low. Also adjust the accelerator pump linkage to increase off idle enrichment. If there is not enough fuel flow from the acceletrator pump, it causes hesitation. It could also look at the accelerator pump check valve [ stuck open ] that leads into the cylinder for the accelerator pump piston. Find someone who can read plugs [old school] A lean idle will have a clean metal electrode on the spark plug, a correct idle mixture will have a small dark band at the very tip of the metal. Once it is drivable, the plugs will indicate the adjustments needed for mid-range and what mixtures. Davew7

With a lowered vehicle, a 3" diameter exhaust that crosses under the drive shaft is really going to hurt ground clearance. I would just go straight back on the LH side.The 3" system is way over kill. A 2 1/4" diameter is the largest practical size that can be installed. Just install a muffler with a 2 1/2" core, sent the muffler is the largest restriction in the system. davew7

Did you pull the distributor? Could have inserted it 180* off, or plug wires switched? Pull the spark plug on number 1 and verify that the cylinder is coming up on the compression stroke, when the rotor is pointing to the number 1 terminal on the cap. Davew7

In theory you should see about a 1% improvement in HP for every 10 degree drop in temperature with you cold air intake system. The problem is that you still heat up the intake charge as the air/fuel passes through the manifold and head, so you do not see the theoretical temperature change in the cylinder. But you should still see some temperate improvements and some improvements from a less restrictive intake system. davew7

A sump that is 20mm below the frame rail on a clubman should not be to prone to damage if you have about 75mm ground clearance to the sump. Just add a sump bash plate. This one is attached with three 6mm riv-nuts to the front cross tube. No wings, just gates with a standard sump. Davew7

I worked for Dana Corp, which experimented with road going turbine engines in the 80's. The problem is stop and go, i.e. which would be normal idle speed conditions, the turbine has to keep running at high RPM, which means burning a lot more fuel. Davew7

If all else fails, and you can not find a replacement float seat, someone with a jewelers lathe could dress the sealing surfaces. Davew7