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About davew7

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  1. Probably should look at a "W" series trans, with a SQ Engineering adaptor plate to a T-50 bell housing. Have you up-graded or plan on up grading the rear axle? Davew7
  2. Running without a spring on the advance weight is not a good idea. You need some type of damping. If the weight swings out and make hard metal to metal contact, it will bounce, causing erratic timing. Find a lighter spring or try to dampen the contact with rubber. davew7
  3. A wild a$$ guess is that you are bleeding air into the carb. Try pulling the solenoid and cleaning the port area and plunger, allowing the solenoid to close off the air bleed port. Could also possible be a function the bi-metallic strip out of adjustment not allowing an electrical contact switch to function. Davew7
  4. I actually had the outer ring on the engine damper, the rubber bonding, allow it to move more then 20*. Put a screw driver in the number 1 plug hole and turn the engine over by hand to TDC. Verify the timing mark aligns with the notch on the outer damper ring. If the timing is correct and the injectors flow and pattern looks good. Double check again for vacuum leaks. Davew7
  5. The control solenoid, which the original Aisan did not have is a anti-diesel solenoid, that closes the throttle when you turn off the ignition. You should be able to adjust it fore and aft at the throttle, which would effect idle. But first check the choke. Make sure that the choke is fully opens after the engine is up to temp. Then verify that the linkage to the fast idle cam is correctly adjusted. I would also check for a vacuum leak. Davew7
  6. Check the float level, it could be set low. Also adjust the accelerator pump linkage to increase off idle enrichment. If there is not enough fuel flow from the acceletrator pump, it causes hesitation. It could also look at the accelerator pump check valve [ stuck open ] that leads into the cylinder for the accelerator pump piston. Find someone who can read plugs [old school] A lean idle will have a clean metal electrode on the spark plug, a correct idle mixture will have a small dark band at the very tip of the metal. Once it is drivable, the plugs will indicate the adjustments needed for mid-range and what mixtures. Davew7
  7. With a lowered vehicle, a 3" diameter exhaust that crosses under the drive shaft is really going to hurt ground clearance. I would just go straight back on the LH side.The 3" system is way over kill. A 2 1/4" diameter is the largest practical size that can be installed. Just install a muffler with a 2 1/2" core, sent the muffler is the largest restriction in the system. davew7
  8. Did you pull the distributor? Could have inserted it 180* off, or plug wires switched? Pull the spark plug on number 1 and verify that the cylinder is coming up on the compression stroke, when the rotor is pointing to the number 1 terminal on the cap. Davew7
  9. In theory you should see about a 1% improvement in HP for every 10 degree drop in temperature with you cold air intake system. The problem is that you still heat up the intake charge as the air/fuel passes through the manifold and head, so you do not see the theoretical temperature change in the cylinder. But you should still see some temperate improvements and some improvements from a less restrictive intake system. davew7
  10. A sump that is 20mm below the frame rail on a clubman should not be to prone to damage if you have about 75mm ground clearance to the sump. Just add a sump bash plate. This one is attached with three 6mm riv-nuts to the front cross tube. No wings, just gates with a standard sump. Davew7
  11. I worked for Dana Corp, which experimented with road going turbine engines in the 80's. The problem is stop and go, i.e. which would be normal idle speed conditions, the turbine has to keep running at high RPM, which means burning a lot more fuel. Davew7
  12. If all else fails, and you can not find a replacement float seat, someone with a jewelers lathe could dress the sealing surfaces. Davew7
  13. Once you have swapped the push rod, you should adjust the rod length until you have 1mm clearance, before the push rod contacts the M/C piston. Davew7
  14. Do not use gear lube with a GL-5 or GL4/5 rating. Only use GL-4 or GL-3 in the trans. Using a lube with the GL-5 rating long term will destroy your syncho's in the these older trans designs that have brass alloy syncho's. DaveW
  15. google Ashland Chemical, for your nearest distributor. They make a 2 part structural adhesive that is designed for that application. It is relatively quick setting. Can be applied in any position, will only take about 15 to 20 minute before it's useable. davew7
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