Viterbo

I got overtaken by a Datsun 120Y with it's A12 with a Weber 32/36, full stock engine :lolcry: if the A12 can get benefits from it, I think my 5K will also. When it is installed I'm taking it to an old man who can tune them oldschool way :yes:

A friend lended me a 3K carb. The engine works as it should!! I can't get it to idle without throttle help, but it doesn't bounce, looks pretty decent. Now I just need to adjust the carb so it can move

I've been running 4K carb for a year with no problem. What solenoid is that??

Replaced dizzy cap and rotor, nothing... The car is hard to start, few stalls before it could keep the idle, working on 3 cilinders keeps RPMs stable for a minute, then starts floating until it stalls...

Did that already, all of them have spark, switched cables and spark plugs to see if the problem moved to other cilinder but it's always number 3. On number 3 I took the cable out with a rubber covered clamp and still got shock in my finger... About the spark colour I can't tell anything.

I thought I had posted the values here. 1 - 12,5 bar 2 - 12 bar 3 - 12,75 bar 4 - 12,5 bar When I take spark lead in each cilinder I can notice the engine working differently. But this doesn't happen with cilinder 3. It just works as it was before, with lead or no lead... I'm gonna replace dizzy cap and rotor tonight and see what happens...

It's not worth it as I have a 32/36 Weber to go in! I don't think the 3 cilinder problem has anything to do with the carb

nope, just split it in two, little cleaning...

Back to 3 cilinders, and keeps stalling, unstable idle... Last thing I'm gonna do myself is discharge the hydraulic lifters. After this, it's out of my league

Another update: closed all useless crappy emission pipes on the carb. Just kept brake booster, dizzy advance, ECONO valve and the breather from the valve cover to the base of the carb. Everything else was ductaped. The car now idles perfectly, it isn't unstable as it was. Now just need to make it work with 4 cilinders again and I think it is solved!

Took carb off to inspect it, today I installed it, started the engine and... 3 cilinder again... I'm gonna trash this car :bash:

PROBLEM SOLVED! How? I don't know exactly ahahah A mechanic friend came over and messed with spark plug leads. I think he solved the problem when he accidently switched cables and it fired through the intake, something must have cleaned, a valve seat or something like that...

Since I'm using hydraulic lifters could it be related? Too much load or something?

Switched cable 1 with 3, also tried other spark plug there, always the cilinder 3 faulty. I hope it isn't a warped pushrod or valve... Or a crack in the head...

Sump out, oil pump out, crank out, chain out. New bearings, crank regrounded, crank in, pump in, chain in, sump in. Didn't do anything from the rods to the top. Dizzy didn't came out, head, cam, nothing was changed. Leads and spark plugs are ok. Compression only today I'll have a meter to test. Since I didn't messed with the dizzy, the timing remained the same, last time it changed it was set to around 7 degrees.

yesterday the car finally worked! Seems the oil problem is solved! But... it's working on 3 cilinders... the car shakes a lot, from the exhaust clearly the engine is missing a step... Cilinder 3 is not working. It has spark (the spark plug is dry and beige colored) but it doesn't work. I had a 4K with precisely cilinder 3 not working, the car didn't shake and the problem was almost unnoticed. But this time the whole car shakes a LOT... I'm tired of this engine...

I'm still with hydraulic GJM!

Update on this, crank had scratches as I said, and also rod journals 1 and 4 were worn when comparing with 2 and 3. All regrounded to 0.10 and new bearings fitted. Hope this issue is solved I'll post again when ready Thanks to all!

Yep big ends were replaced! Crank has scratches, I think it will need to be worked and new measure bearings need to be fitted.

Problem found?

About the oil pump, is it a good idea to add a washer to the oil pump? And what thickness shall it have?

Hum makes sense, you guys are a great help! Another question, I have 3 oil pumps and I was told to immerse them in oil and with an electric drill make them work at an equal RPM and see which one throws oil further, the one who does it is the one I should install. Can you confirm or deny this?

Will I be able to take out the cam with the head in?

Is there any need to check camshaft and it's bearings? Thank you for all the help guys!

The gap they had was on the direction of engine, along the crank and I was told that gap is supposed to exist